Hair Care and Haircutting
Reference points and lines
Learn the landmarks: parietal ridge, apex, four corners, occipital bone, and nape. Horizontal lines build weight, vertical lines remove weight, and diagonal lines blend. Elevation is the angle at which hair is held away from the head: 0° gives a one-length or solid form, 45° a graduated form, 90° uniform layers, and 180° long layers. Distribution describes where the hair sits relative to its section - natural fall, shifted, or directed (overdirection).
Cutting mechanics
Divide the head into four sections, then subsections no wider than the comb. Keep tension consistent from subsection to subsection; inconsistent tension is the single most common cause of a lopsided perimeter. Work palm-to-palm for control, use shear-over-comb for short tapers and fades, and cross-check every cut for balance before you put the shears down.
Consultation and hair analysis
Assess texture, density, porosity, elasticity, and growth pattern (whorl, cowlick, widow's peak, nape hairline) before the first cut. Face shape and lifestyle drive the shape you choose; growth pattern drives how you section it. Curly hair should be cut with awareness of shrinkage - cut it dry or leave extra length.
Worked example: 45° graduated bob
Reasoning: hold natural fall, elevate every subsection to 45°, and cut each one parallel to the subsection beneath it. Weight builds at the perimeter, and the length increases gradually toward the front. Because the front sections travel farther from the head, the guide must be carried forward deliberately. Finish with a horizontal cross-check at the nape to confirm the graduation is even on both sides.
Traps that cost marks
Confusing elevation with distribution; cutting through a cowlick instead of working with it; forgetting to cross-check; cutting fine or damaged hair with a razor; letting a subsection get wider than the comb, which drags the guide off line.