ND Esthetician study materials
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ND Esthetician: Hair Removal and Waxing

ND Esthetician · Work through your exam, one topic at a time.

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Hair Removal and Waxing

Hair Removal and Waxing tests the hair growth cycle, soft versus hard wax, safe temperature, client screening, and the hygiene rules that prevent cross-contamination and skin lifting.

The growth cycle

Anagen is active growth, catagen is transition, telogen is resting. Waxing works best in early anagen when the hair is firmly anchored. Hair grows roughly 1 cm (about half an inch) a month, so clients return every 3–5 weeks, and hair needs at least 6 mm (about a quarter inch) of length for wax to grip.

Wax types and temperature

Soft wax is applied thin and removed with a fabric strip. Hard wax is applied thicker, sets on its own and is removed without a strip - better for coarse hair, brows, underarms and bikini. Test temperature on your inner wrist and stay within the manufacturer's range, roughly 49–57 °C (120–135 °F). Never re-dip a spatula that touched skin.

Protocol

Cleanse and blot the area, powder to protect skin, patch test when the client reports sensitivity, apply in the direction of hair growth, hold skin taut, remove quickly against the growth with skin held flat, press immediately, apply a soothing post-epilation product, then give aftercare: no heat, sun, exercise, friction or swimming for 24 hours, followed by gentle exfoliation.

Contraindications

Isotretinoin, topical retinoids, recent peels or laser, sunburn, actinic keratosis, moles, varicose veins, active infection, cold sores and keloid tendency; use caution with diabetes and anticoagulants.

Worked example

A client using adapalene wants a lip wax, and you spot a cold sore forming. Reasoning: two absolute contraindications - retinoid-thinned skin plus herpes - so decline, document, and reschedule after healing and clearance.

Traps that cost marks

  • Wax that is too hot and burns the skin.
  • Applying or removing against the correct direction.
  • Waxing over a mole or broken skin.
  • Reusing a spatula or strip between clients.