Acrylic (Liquid and Powder) Nail Application
Acrylic questions focus on the liquid-and-powder ratio, zone application, and preventing lifting and allergic reactions.
Chemistry
Powder is the polymer; the liquid monomer is usually ethyl methacrylate (EMA). Never substitute methyl methacrylate (MMA), which is restricted or banned in many jurisdictions and causes severe sensitization.
The bead
A correct medium bead looks like thick sour cream, holds its shape, and levels slowly. Too wet gives shrinkage, yellowing, and lifting; too dry gives brittle, cloudy, flaky product.
Zones
Zone 1 is the free edge; zone 2 is the stress area with the apex; zone 3 is the cuticle area and stays thin. Press and pat, keep the brush at about a 45-degree angle, and never let product touch skin or sidewalls - that is the leading cause of lifting.
Prep and cure
Sanitize, remove cuticle debris from the plate without cutting live tissue, buff the shine, dehydrate, and use primer only as the system directs. Product sets in two to three minutes; full cure continues longer before filing.
Filing
Refine with 180-grit or higher and stop before the natural plate is visibly thinned.
Worked example
A client's acrylic lifts at the cuticle within a week. Likely causes are product on the skin, moisture at the cuticle, or a bead too wet at zone 3. Correct fix: remove the lift, prep, and apply a thinner zone 3 - not more primer over skin.
Traps
Touching skin with monomer; using MMA; overfiling the natural nail; adding liquid to a bead already setting; applying primer to skin.