NE Esthetician cheat sheet
NE Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Nebraska Cosmetology Act
The Act defines esthetics, establishes licensure, and authorizes the Board of Cosmetology and the Department of Health and Human Services to regulate practice.
Performing esthetic services for compensation without a current esthetics license is unlawful; license and establishment certificate must be available for inspection.
Scope covers cleansing, exfoliation, extraction, massage, masks, hair removal, lash and brow services, and makeup; diagnosis and medical treatment are excluded.
Licensure requires completing an approved program, passing the required examination, and filing an application with the required fee.
Estheticians practice in a licensed establishment unless the Act and rules expressly allow independent operation; confirm current rule before renting.
Disciplinary grounds include unsanitary practice, fraud, impairment, and exceeding scope; penalties range from fines and probation to suspension or revocation.
Report name and address changes and renew on the schedule set by the Department; expired practice is unlicensed practice.
Advertising must not claim medical treatment or cures, and the licensed title must be used accurately.
Board Rules and Regulations
Rules implement the Act and address sanitation, equipment, recordkeeping, establishment standards, and license renewal.
Implements are cleaned of debris, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product at label dilution and full contact time.
Single-use items such as wooden applicators, wax strips, lancets, and cotton are discarded after one client.
Hand hygiene is required before and after every client and after glove removal; gloves are required for blood or body-fluid contact.
Clean and soiled items are stored separately; disinfected implements are kept in a labeled, covered container.
When a manufacturer label and a general rule differ, follow the stricter requirement; never shorten contact time.
Establishments are subject to inspection; violations may produce correction orders, fines, or license action.
Keep Safety Data Sheets for professional products accessible and label all secondary containers.
Infection Control, Sanitation and Safety Practices
Chain of infection: pathogen, reservoir, portal of exit, mode of transmission, portal of entry, susceptible host; breaking one link prevents spread.
Cleaning removes debris; disinfection kills most pathogens on surfaces; sterilization destroys all microorganisms and is not the esthetics standard for porous reusables.
Blood or body-fluid contact requires gloves, absorption, cleaning, then an EPA hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant for the label contact time, often 10 minutes.
70% isopropyl alcohol suits small non-porous items only when the label supports it; it is not a substitute for a hospital-grade disinfectant.
Blood spill procedure: gloves and eye protection, absorb, clean, disinfect, discard sharps safely, wash hands, and document.
Wash hands 20 seconds with soap and water; alcohol sanitizer is for hands that are not visibly soiled.
Standard precautions treat every client as potentially infectious; no eating, drinking, or storing food in the treatment area.
Disinfectant solutions are tested with strips when required and replaced per label; never top off a batch.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin and Body Systems
Layers: epidermis (avascular), dermis (vascular, collagen and elastin), subcutaneous (fat, insulation, cushioning).
Epidermis strata deep to surface: basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum on palms and soles, corneum.
Dermis has papillary and reticular regions and contains follicles, glands, vessels, nerves, and ground substance.
Skin functions: barrier, thermoregulation, sensation, vitamin D synthesis, excretion, and limited absorption.
Eccrine sweat glands cool the body; apocrine glands in axillae and groin respond to stress and hormones.
Facial motor nerve is CN VII; sensory nerve is CN V (trigeminal).
Lymphatic drainage flows toward cervical nodes; light effleurage supports it.
Androgens increase sebum; estrogen supports hydration and collagen, so hormonal shifts change skin behavior.
Skin Sciences
Acid mantle pH is about 4.5 to 5.5; alkaline cleansers disrupt barrier enzymes and increase irritation.
Barrier equals corneocytes plus intercellular lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids); damage raises transepidermal water loss.
Epidermal turnover averages about 28 days and slows with age and photodamage.
Melanin synthesis requires tyrosinase; UV, hormones, and inflammation upregulate pigment production.
Skin types are normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; Fitzpatrick I to VI describes UV response, not skin type.
Hydration (water content) and oiliness (sebum) are independent; skin can be oily yet dehydrated.
Extrinsic aging comes from UV, smoking, and pollution; intrinsic aging comes from genetics and time.
Antioxidants neutralize free radicals; sunscreen prevents further damage but does not reverse existing photoaging.
Skin Disorders and Esthetics Chemistry
Primary lesions: macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, bulla, wheal, nodule. Secondary: scale, crust, fissure, erosion, ulcer, scar.
Refer rather than treat: cold sores, impetigo, ringworm, warts, conjunctivitis, undiagnosed lesions, and suspected skin cancer.
Acne lesions: open comedones (blackheads), closed comedones (whiteheads), papules, pustules, nodules, cysts; extract only non-inflamed comedones.
Melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation worsen with heat, UV, and inflammation; avoid aggressive treatment.
Rosacea triggers include heat, friction, alcohol, and spicy food; use gentle care and avoid strong acids.
Emulsion is oil and water stabilized by surfactant; humectants attract water, emollients soften, occlusives seal.
AHA (glycolic, lactic) and BHA (salicylic) are acids; free-acid pH and concentration determine strength.
Irritant contact dermatitis is dose-dependent; allergic contact dermatitis is immune-mediated and may appear 24 to 72 hours later.
Client Consultation, Skin Analysis and Contraindications
Intake covers medications, allergies, pregnancy, surgeries, products, sun exposure, and prior reactions.
Contraindications include isotretinoin before waxing or resurfacing, retinoids, recent laser or peel, active infection, and pacemakers for electrical devices.
Fitzpatrick I to VI guides UV risk and treatment intensity.
Wood's lamp and magnifying lamp support analysis; findings are supportive, not diagnostic.
Patch test 24 to 48 hours before tinting, waxing, or a new product when indicated, and document the result.
Obtain informed consent before any service with risk and document in SOAP format: subjective, objective, assessment, plan.
Pregnancy: avoid electrical modalities, high heat, and strong chemicals; refer for medical clearance when unsure.
Refer suspicious lesions, severe inflammation, and eye conditions to a physician.
Facial Treatments: Cleansing, Exfoliation, Extractions, Masks and Massage
Sequence: consultation, cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract, massage, mask, tone, moisturize, sunscreen.
Double cleanse: oil-based first to dissolve makeup and sebum, then water-based.
Exfoliation is mechanical (scrubs, brushes) or chemical (enzymes, acids); match to sensitivity and recent treatments.
Steam 3 to 5 minutes softens comedones; extract only after softening, using wrapped fingers or an extractor.
Massage strokes: effleurage, petrissage, friction, tapotement; usually 5 to 15 minutes, avoiding pressure on arteries and inflamed skin.
Masks: clay for oil, gel or cream for hydration, enzyme for exfoliation; remove before the mask cracks.
Contraindicated: active infection, open lesions, recent peels or laser, sunburn, and uncontrolled hypertension in the massage area.
Sanitize hands, tools, and bottles between clients; never double-dip.
Hair Removal: Waxing, Tweezing and Sugaring
Hair cycle: anagen (growth), catagen (transition), telogen (rest); waxing targets anagen hairs.
Hair should be about 1/4 inch (6 mm) for wax to grip.
Soft wax: thin layer with growth, removed against growth with a strip. Hard wax: thicker layer, removed against growth without a strip.
Sugaring paste is applied against growth and removed with growth; it is water-soluble and used at lower temperature.
Wax is kept near 125 to 135 degrees Fahrenheit (52 to 57 degrees Celsius); test on the inner wrist and patch test.
Contraindications: isotretinoin, retinoids, blood thinners, active infection, recent peels or laser, varicose veins, moles, sunburn.
Post-care: no heat, sun, friction, or tight clothing for 24 hours; exfoliate after 48 hours to prevent ingrown hairs.
Never wax over moles, compromised skin, or active lesions, and never reuse wax or strips.
Eyelash and Eyebrow Services and Makeup Application
Brow mapping: start above the inner eye corner, arch above the outer iris, end at the outer eye corner or alar base.
Patch test tint 24 to 48 hours ahead; use vegetable-based dyes for brows and lashes, never hair dye.
Lash extensions: isolate the natural lash, place adhesive 1 to 2 mm from the lid, use cyanoacrylate adhesive; no water or steam for 24 hours.
Lash lift uses a silicone shield and processing solution; avoid irritated eyes or recent eye surgery.
Makeup sanitation: never share mascara, sharpen pencils, spatula product from pots, and wash brushes.
Color theory: complementary colors neutralize; green cancels redness and yellow cancels purple.
Contraindications: eye infection, styes, recent eye surgery, and allergy to adhesive or dye.
Remove eye makeup gently; oil-based removers can weaken lash adhesive.
Electrical Equipment and Advanced Esthetic Modalities
Galvanic direct current: negative pole for desincrustation, positive pole for iontophoresis.
High frequency alternating current produces ozone and is used for acne; avoid with pacemakers and pregnancy.
Microcurrent uses very low amperage to support ATP and muscle tone; contraindicated with pacemaker, epilepsy, and pregnancy.
LED: blue near 415 nm for acne bacteria, red near 633 nm for healing, amber near 590 nm, infrared near 830 nm; use eye protection.
Ultrasound at 1 to 3 MHz requires coupling gel; contraindicated over pregnancy, cancer, pacemakers, and acute inflammation.
Microdermabrasion is mechanical exfoliation; avoid with isotretinoin, rosacea, active acne, and recent peels.
Chemical peels range from superficial AHA/BHA to medium and deep medical peels; estheticians perform only services within scope.
Document device parameters, screen contraindications, and disinfect device parts between clients.
Business Practices
Revenue minus expenses equals profit; track service income, retail income, and overhead separately.
Service price must exceed cost per billable hour plus product cost and time.
Markup percent = (retail minus cost) divided by cost times 100; margin percent = (retail minus cost) divided by retail times 100.
Services and retail products may be taxed differently; verify current Nebraska Department of Revenue guidance.
Written policies on late arrival, cancellation, no-shows, and refunds reduce disputes.
Maintain professional liability insurance, current licenses, and secure client records.
Marketing claims must be truthful and within scope; obtain written consent before using photos.
Independent contractor versus employee status affects taxes and control; follow Nebraska labor guidance.
Professional Ethics and Retail Sales
Stay within scope: no diagnosis, no prescribing, and no promises of a cure.
Obtain informed consent and protect confidentiality; share client information only as authorized.
Disclose conflicts of interest and avoid pressure-based referrals.
Recommend products based on skin analysis and ingredients, and patch test when indicated.
Explain price, expected results, and alternatives before the sale.
Respect professional boundaries and avoid dual relationships; keep communication professional.
Continuing education maintains competence and supports license renewal.
Social media: obtain consent, avoid misleading before-and-after edits, and protect client privacy.