NE Esthetician study materials
NE Esthetician study resources

NE Esthetician cheat sheet

NE Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.

Quick reference

Nebraska Cosmetology Act

  • The Act defines esthetics, establishes licensure, and authorizes the Board of Cosmetology and the Department of Health and Human Services to regulate practice.

  • Performing esthetic services for compensation without a current esthetics license is unlawful; license and establishment certificate must be available for inspection.

  • Scope covers cleansing, exfoliation, extraction, massage, masks, hair removal, lash and brow services, and makeup; diagnosis and medical treatment are excluded.

  • Licensure requires completing an approved program, passing the required examination, and filing an application with the required fee.

  • Estheticians practice in a licensed establishment unless the Act and rules expressly allow independent operation; confirm current rule before renting.

  • Disciplinary grounds include unsanitary practice, fraud, impairment, and exceeding scope; penalties range from fines and probation to suspension or revocation.

  • Report name and address changes and renew on the schedule set by the Department; expired practice is unlicensed practice.

  • Advertising must not claim medical treatment or cures, and the licensed title must be used accurately.

Quick reference

Board Rules and Regulations

  • Rules implement the Act and address sanitation, equipment, recordkeeping, establishment standards, and license renewal.

  • Implements are cleaned of debris, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product at label dilution and full contact time.

  • Single-use items such as wooden applicators, wax strips, lancets, and cotton are discarded after one client.

  • Hand hygiene is required before and after every client and after glove removal; gloves are required for blood or body-fluid contact.

  • Clean and soiled items are stored separately; disinfected implements are kept in a labeled, covered container.

  • When a manufacturer label and a general rule differ, follow the stricter requirement; never shorten contact time.

  • Establishments are subject to inspection; violations may produce correction orders, fines, or license action.

  • Keep Safety Data Sheets for professional products accessible and label all secondary containers.

Quick reference

Infection Control, Sanitation and Safety Practices

  • Chain of infection: pathogen, reservoir, portal of exit, mode of transmission, portal of entry, susceptible host; breaking one link prevents spread.

  • Cleaning removes debris; disinfection kills most pathogens on surfaces; sterilization destroys all microorganisms and is not the esthetics standard for porous reusables.

  • Blood or body-fluid contact requires gloves, absorption, cleaning, then an EPA hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant for the label contact time, often 10 minutes.

  • 70% isopropyl alcohol suits small non-porous items only when the label supports it; it is not a substitute for a hospital-grade disinfectant.

  • Blood spill procedure: gloves and eye protection, absorb, clean, disinfect, discard sharps safely, wash hands, and document.

  • Wash hands 20 seconds with soap and water; alcohol sanitizer is for hands that are not visibly soiled.

  • Standard precautions treat every client as potentially infectious; no eating, drinking, or storing food in the treatment area.

  • Disinfectant solutions are tested with strips when required and replaced per label; never top off a batch.

Quick reference

Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin and Body Systems

  • Layers: epidermis (avascular), dermis (vascular, collagen and elastin), subcutaneous (fat, insulation, cushioning).

  • Epidermis strata deep to surface: basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum on palms and soles, corneum.

  • Dermis has papillary and reticular regions and contains follicles, glands, vessels, nerves, and ground substance.

  • Skin functions: barrier, thermoregulation, sensation, vitamin D synthesis, excretion, and limited absorption.

  • Eccrine sweat glands cool the body; apocrine glands in axillae and groin respond to stress and hormones.

  • Facial motor nerve is CN VII; sensory nerve is CN V (trigeminal).

  • Lymphatic drainage flows toward cervical nodes; light effleurage supports it.

  • Androgens increase sebum; estrogen supports hydration and collagen, so hormonal shifts change skin behavior.

Quick reference

Skin Sciences

  • Acid mantle pH is about 4.5 to 5.5; alkaline cleansers disrupt barrier enzymes and increase irritation.

  • Barrier equals corneocytes plus intercellular lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids); damage raises transepidermal water loss.

  • Epidermal turnover averages about 28 days and slows with age and photodamage.

  • Melanin synthesis requires tyrosinase; UV, hormones, and inflammation upregulate pigment production.

  • Skin types are normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; Fitzpatrick I to VI describes UV response, not skin type.

  • Hydration (water content) and oiliness (sebum) are independent; skin can be oily yet dehydrated.

  • Extrinsic aging comes from UV, smoking, and pollution; intrinsic aging comes from genetics and time.

  • Antioxidants neutralize free radicals; sunscreen prevents further damage but does not reverse existing photoaging.

Quick reference

Skin Disorders and Esthetics Chemistry

  • Primary lesions: macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, bulla, wheal, nodule. Secondary: scale, crust, fissure, erosion, ulcer, scar.

  • Refer rather than treat: cold sores, impetigo, ringworm, warts, conjunctivitis, undiagnosed lesions, and suspected skin cancer.

  • Acne lesions: open comedones (blackheads), closed comedones (whiteheads), papules, pustules, nodules, cysts; extract only non-inflamed comedones.

  • Melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation worsen with heat, UV, and inflammation; avoid aggressive treatment.

  • Rosacea triggers include heat, friction, alcohol, and spicy food; use gentle care and avoid strong acids.

  • Emulsion is oil and water stabilized by surfactant; humectants attract water, emollients soften, occlusives seal.

  • AHA (glycolic, lactic) and BHA (salicylic) are acids; free-acid pH and concentration determine strength.

  • Irritant contact dermatitis is dose-dependent; allergic contact dermatitis is immune-mediated and may appear 24 to 72 hours later.

Quick reference

Client Consultation, Skin Analysis and Contraindications

  • Intake covers medications, allergies, pregnancy, surgeries, products, sun exposure, and prior reactions.

  • Contraindications include isotretinoin before waxing or resurfacing, retinoids, recent laser or peel, active infection, and pacemakers for electrical devices.

  • Fitzpatrick I to VI guides UV risk and treatment intensity.

  • Wood's lamp and magnifying lamp support analysis; findings are supportive, not diagnostic.

  • Patch test 24 to 48 hours before tinting, waxing, or a new product when indicated, and document the result.

  • Obtain informed consent before any service with risk and document in SOAP format: subjective, objective, assessment, plan.

  • Pregnancy: avoid electrical modalities, high heat, and strong chemicals; refer for medical clearance when unsure.

  • Refer suspicious lesions, severe inflammation, and eye conditions to a physician.

Quick reference

Facial Treatments: Cleansing, Exfoliation, Extractions, Masks and Massage

  • Sequence: consultation, cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract, massage, mask, tone, moisturize, sunscreen.

  • Double cleanse: oil-based first to dissolve makeup and sebum, then water-based.

  • Exfoliation is mechanical (scrubs, brushes) or chemical (enzymes, acids); match to sensitivity and recent treatments.

  • Steam 3 to 5 minutes softens comedones; extract only after softening, using wrapped fingers or an extractor.

  • Massage strokes: effleurage, petrissage, friction, tapotement; usually 5 to 15 minutes, avoiding pressure on arteries and inflamed skin.

  • Masks: clay for oil, gel or cream for hydration, enzyme for exfoliation; remove before the mask cracks.

  • Contraindicated: active infection, open lesions, recent peels or laser, sunburn, and uncontrolled hypertension in the massage area.

  • Sanitize hands, tools, and bottles between clients; never double-dip.

Quick reference

Hair Removal: Waxing, Tweezing and Sugaring

  • Hair cycle: anagen (growth), catagen (transition), telogen (rest); waxing targets anagen hairs.

  • Hair should be about 1/4 inch (6 mm) for wax to grip.

  • Soft wax: thin layer with growth, removed against growth with a strip. Hard wax: thicker layer, removed against growth without a strip.

  • Sugaring paste is applied against growth and removed with growth; it is water-soluble and used at lower temperature.

  • Wax is kept near 125 to 135 degrees Fahrenheit (52 to 57 degrees Celsius); test on the inner wrist and patch test.

  • Contraindications: isotretinoin, retinoids, blood thinners, active infection, recent peels or laser, varicose veins, moles, sunburn.

  • Post-care: no heat, sun, friction, or tight clothing for 24 hours; exfoliate after 48 hours to prevent ingrown hairs.

  • Never wax over moles, compromised skin, or active lesions, and never reuse wax or strips.

Quick reference

Eyelash and Eyebrow Services and Makeup Application

  • Brow mapping: start above the inner eye corner, arch above the outer iris, end at the outer eye corner or alar base.

  • Patch test tint 24 to 48 hours ahead; use vegetable-based dyes for brows and lashes, never hair dye.

  • Lash extensions: isolate the natural lash, place adhesive 1 to 2 mm from the lid, use cyanoacrylate adhesive; no water or steam for 24 hours.

  • Lash lift uses a silicone shield and processing solution; avoid irritated eyes or recent eye surgery.

  • Makeup sanitation: never share mascara, sharpen pencils, spatula product from pots, and wash brushes.

  • Color theory: complementary colors neutralize; green cancels redness and yellow cancels purple.

  • Contraindications: eye infection, styes, recent eye surgery, and allergy to adhesive or dye.

  • Remove eye makeup gently; oil-based removers can weaken lash adhesive.

Quick reference

Electrical Equipment and Advanced Esthetic Modalities

  • Galvanic direct current: negative pole for desincrustation, positive pole for iontophoresis.

  • High frequency alternating current produces ozone and is used for acne; avoid with pacemakers and pregnancy.

  • Microcurrent uses very low amperage to support ATP and muscle tone; contraindicated with pacemaker, epilepsy, and pregnancy.

  • LED: blue near 415 nm for acne bacteria, red near 633 nm for healing, amber near 590 nm, infrared near 830 nm; use eye protection.

  • Ultrasound at 1 to 3 MHz requires coupling gel; contraindicated over pregnancy, cancer, pacemakers, and acute inflammation.

  • Microdermabrasion is mechanical exfoliation; avoid with isotretinoin, rosacea, active acne, and recent peels.

  • Chemical peels range from superficial AHA/BHA to medium and deep medical peels; estheticians perform only services within scope.

  • Document device parameters, screen contraindications, and disinfect device parts between clients.

Quick reference

Business Practices

  • Revenue minus expenses equals profit; track service income, retail income, and overhead separately.

  • Service price must exceed cost per billable hour plus product cost and time.

  • Markup percent = (retail minus cost) divided by cost times 100; margin percent = (retail minus cost) divided by retail times 100.

  • Services and retail products may be taxed differently; verify current Nebraska Department of Revenue guidance.

  • Written policies on late arrival, cancellation, no-shows, and refunds reduce disputes.

  • Maintain professional liability insurance, current licenses, and secure client records.

  • Marketing claims must be truthful and within scope; obtain written consent before using photos.

  • Independent contractor versus employee status affects taxes and control; follow Nebraska labor guidance.

Quick reference

Professional Ethics and Retail Sales

  • Stay within scope: no diagnosis, no prescribing, and no promises of a cure.

  • Obtain informed consent and protect confidentiality; share client information only as authorized.

  • Disclose conflicts of interest and avoid pressure-based referrals.

  • Recommend products based on skin analysis and ingredients, and patch test when indicated.

  • Explain price, expected results, and alternatives before the sale.

  • Respect professional boundaries and avoid dual relationships; keep communication professional.

  • Continuing education maintains competence and supports license renewal.

  • Social media: obtain consent, avoid misleading before-and-after edits, and protect client privacy.