NM Cosmetology cheat sheet

pH scale runs 0-14; 7 is neutral, below 7 acidic, above 7 alkaline. Hair and skin prefer the acid mantle near pH 4.5-5.5.

The hair shaft has three layers: cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk, pigment, and bonds), and medulla (central core, often absent in fine hair).

Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores; sanitation reduces debris and some microbes on surfaces.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant must be used at label dilution and contact time (often 10 minutes) on implements that contact skin or blood.

Blood and body fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towel, clean with soap and water, then disinfect with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal product.

Porous items (nail files, orangewood sticks, cotton, sponges) cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded after single use.

Hepatitis B, hepatitis C, and HIV are bloodborne pathogens; transmission in salons is prevented by gloves, handwashing, and no sharing of sharp implements.

Client contraindications for service include open lesions, fungal infections (tinea), lice, and active herpes simplex until resolved or cleared by a physician.

Hair is roughly 90% protein (keratin); the cortex bonds are disulfide, salt, hydrogen, and peptide. Wet hair stretches more and is more fragile.

Hair texture (fine/medium/coarse), density (thin to thick per square inch), porosity (low, normal, high), and elasticity (normal stretches 50% wet and returns) drive product selection.

Low porosity resists moisture and needs heat and lightweight products; high porosity absorbs fast but loses moisture and needs protein and sealing agents.

Shampoo surfactants lift oil; the acid mantle is restored by acidic conditioners. Clarifying shampoo removes buildup but is drying and used sparingly.

Protein (keratin) treatments strengthen weak, over-processed hair; moisture (humectant) treatments restore softness. Too much protein causes brittleness.

Scalp conditions: seborrheic dermatitis (flaking, oily), pityriasis (dry flakes), tinea capitis (fungal, contagious, refer out), and pediculosis (lice, refer out).

Hot oil and scalp massage stimulate circulation; contraindicated over inflamed, broken, or infected scalp tissue.

Dandruff shampoos with zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, or ketoconazole are treatment products; cosmetologists cleanse and refer persistent cases.

Reference points: parietal ridge, apex, occipital bone, nape, and four corners define sectioning and balance lines.

Elevation (0-90+ degrees) controls volume; 0 degrees builds weight, 90 degrees creates layers, 180 degrees removes weight.

Distribution (natural fall vs. shifted) and projection determine where length lands; overdirection shifts weight.

Guide types: stationary guide (no movement, builds length/weight) vs. traveling guide (moves with each section, layers).

Cutting lines: horizontal (one-length, weight at perimeter), vertical (graduation/layers), diagonal (soft blend).

Texturizing tools (thinning shears, razor, notching, point cutting) remove bulk; slide cutting should not be used on curly or fine hair without care.

Clipper over-comb uses guards and comb as a guide; taper and fade blend from short to long at the perimeter.

Cross-checking (opposite direction) verifies evenness; blunt cuts require clean, dry or damp-detail checking for balance.

Color wheel: primary (red, yellow, blue), secondary (orange, green, violet). Complementary colors neutralize unwanted tones (violet cancels yellow).

Developer volumes: 10 vol (3%) deposit only, 20 vol (6%) one level lift, 30 vol (9%) two to three levels, 40 vol (12%) up to four levels with more damage.

Permanent color lifts and deposits via ammonia opening the cuticle and peroxide developing; demi-permanent deposits with low or no lift; semi-permanent is direct dye.

Law of color: color results from the combination of contributing pigment and artificial pigment; underlying pigment at each level (e.g., level 7 = orange, level 10 = pale yellow).

Patch test 24-48 hours before aniline derivative color; strand test determines timing and result on the actual hair.

Relaxers (sodium hydroxide, no-lye guanidine/calcium hydroxide) break disulfide bonds; thio relaxers are gentler. Neutralizing rebuilds bonds and lowers pH.

Permanent wave: thioglycolate (acid or alkaline) breaks disulfide bonds, then neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) re-forms them into the new shape.

Do not perm or relax hair that has been bleached to the point of poor elasticity; overlapping relaxer causes breakage and chemical burns.

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum outermost), dermis (collagen, elastin, nerves, glands), subcutaneous (fat).

Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive; conditions include dehydration, acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation.

Fitzpatrick scale I-VI estimates sun sensitivity and guides treatment intensity, waxing, and laser referral.

Cleansing sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate (if indicated), massage, mask, moisturize, protect with SPF.

Massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction, vibration; avoid over active acne, sunburn, or broken skin.

Extractions are performed only on comedones with sterile tools; pustules and inflamed lesions are not extracted in most states.

Waxing: test temperature, apply in direction of hair growth, remove against growth while holding skin taut; contraindicated over retinoid use, accutane, or recently resurfaced skin.

Contraindications for facial service include active cold sores, conjunctivitis, recent chemical peel, and uncontrolled skin infections.

Nail structure: nail plate, nail bed, matrix (growth area), lunula (visible matrix), cuticle (eponychium), hyponychium, sidewalls, free edge.

Fingernails grow about 3 mm per month; toenails about 1 mm per month. Nail plate is keratinized, not living tissue.

Nail disorders: onychomycosis (fungal, refer), paronychia (bacterial infection of nail fold), onycholysis (separation), beau's lines (trauma/illness).

Do not cut live tissue (cuticle, sidewalls); push back eponychium only. Nipper use on living tissue is prohibited in many states and risks infection.

Manicure steps: shape, soak, push cuticle, massage, base coat, polish, top coat; disinfect implements between clients.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, oval, almond, stiletto, coffin; file in one direction to avoid splitting.

Acrylic (liquid monomer + powder polymer) and gel enhancements require proper mix ratio; overexposure causes allergic reaction (methacrylate allergy).

Electric file safety: lower RPM for natural nail, keep bit moving, never apply pressure on one spot; ventilation required for monomer vapors.

New Mexico regulates cosmetology through the Board of Barbers and Cosmetologists under the Regulation and Licensing Department; licenses must be posted.

New Mexico requires completion of an approved cosmetology program (typically 1,600 hours) and passing both written and practical exams for licensure.

Continuing education and license renewal cycles are set by the New Mexico board; verify current hour requirements and renewal dates on the state site.

Salon licenses, establishment inspections, and sanitation standards are enforced by the board; violations can result in fines, suspension, or revocation.

Independent contractor vs. employee status affects taxes, booth rental, and liability; written agreements and proper 1099/W-2 handling are required.

Ethics: client confidentiality, informed consent, scope of practice, no diagnosing disease, and honest pricing and product claims.

Retail and service pricing must cover product cost, overhead, and time; a common formula is (product cost + overhead) x markup plus labor.

Client records, patch tests, and service notes protect both client and stylist in liability claims; retain per state record rules.

pH scale runs 0-14; 7 is neutral, below 7 acidic, above 7 alkaline. Hair and skin prefer the acid mantle near pH 4.5-5.5.

The hair shaft has three layers: cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk, pigment, and bonds), and medulla (central core, often absent in fine hair).

Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on nonporous implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores; sanitation reduces debris and some microbes on surfaces.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant must be used at label dilution and contact time (often 10 minutes) on implements that contact skin or blood.

Blood and body fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with disposable towel, clean with soap and water, then disinfect with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal product.

Porous items (nail files, orangewood sticks, cotton, sponges) cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded after single use.

Hepatitis B, hepatitis C, and HIV are bloodborne pathogens; transmission in salons is prevented by gloves, handwashing, and no sharing of sharp implements.

Client contraindications for service include open lesions, fungal infections (tinea), lice, and active herpes simplex until resolved or cleared by a physician.