NV Esthetician cheat sheet
NV Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Skin Care and Esthetics Fundamentals
Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum, granulosum, spinosum, basale), dermis (papillary and reticular), hypodermis; esthetic treatments target the epidermis and upper papillary dermis.
Fitzpatrick phototypes I-VI: I always burns, never tans; VI deeply pigmented, rarely burns; higher types carry greater risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after waxing, peels, or extractions.
Skin pH averages about 4.5-5.5 (acid mantle); alkaline cleansers and soaps raise pH and transiently reduce barrier function and acid-mantle protection.
Barrier function resides mainly in the stratum corneum: corneocytes plus intercellular lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids) regulate transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Skin types: normal, dry (alipidic), oily, combination, sensitive; skin conditions (dehydration, acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation) are treated differently from skin types.
Comedogenic vs non-comedogenic: comedogenic ingredients tend to clog follicles; non-comedogenic products are preferable for acne-prone clients.
Exfoliation modes: physical (scrubs, brushes) and chemical (AHAs such as glycolic and lactic acid; BHAs such as salicylic acid, which is lipid-soluble and follicle-penetrating).
Sun protection: UVB (290-320 nm) causes burning; UVA (320-400 nm) causes photoaging and pigmentation; SPF describes UVB protection, broad-spectrum labels add UVA coverage.
Facial Treatments and Techniques
Consultation precedes service: skin analysis, medical history, allergies, medications (e.g., isotretinoin, retinoids, blood thinners), pregnancy status, and prior chemical or laser services.
Cleansing order: remove eye makeup first, then cleanse face and neck using upward, outward movements; verify product removal before analysis or exfoliation.
Manual extractions are performed only on pustules and non-inflamed comedones; inflamed lesions, cysts, and nodules are not extracted and may require referral.
Massage movements follow the direction of muscle fiber and lymphatic flow, generally upward and outward; effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, and friction are the basic manipulations.
Mask selection: clay/mud for oily and congested skin; hydrating gel or sheet masks for dehydrated skin; calming formulas for sensitive or reactive skin.
Chemical peel depth depends on acid, concentration, pH, and contact time; superficial peels affect the epidermis only, and neutralizing or timed removal is required per manufacturer directions.
High-frequency current is used for a mild germicidal and drying effect on acne-prone skin; galvanic current is used for product penetration (cataphoresis) or disincrustation.
Contraindications to heat, massage, and electrical modalities include active infection, recent surgery, uncontrolled hypertension, and pacemakers or metal implants for electrical devices.
Sanitation, Disinfection, and Infection Control
Sanitize means reduce pathogens on surfaces to a safe level by cleaning; disinfect means destroy most pathogens on nonporous implements; sterilize means destroy all microbial life including spores.
Nevada requires implements that contact skin or blood to be cleaned, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant used per label contact time, typically 10 minutes.
Porous items that cannot be disinfected (cotton, linen, wooden sticks, nail files, sponges) are single-use and discarded after one client.
Hand washing with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client; alcohol-based sanitizer does not replace washing when hands are visibly soiled.
Blood and body-fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with disposable material, clean the area, then disinfect with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal product following label dwell time.
Implements must be visibly clean before immersion in disinfectant; organic residue inactivates many disinfectants and invalidates the contact time.
State board rules require disinfected implements stored in a clean, covered container and clean linens for each client; soiled linens go into a closed receptacle.
Hepatitis B, hepatitis C, and HIV are bloodborne; herpes simplex, tinea, and impetigo are contagious skin conditions that contraindicate service on affected areas.
Nevada Cosmetology Law and Board Regulations
The Nevada State Board of Cosmetology licenses estheticians, cosmetologists, nail technologists, hair designers, and instructors, and inspects licensed establishments.
An esthetician license authorizes skin care services, makeup, and hair removal by waxing or tweezing; services outside the license scope (e.g., medical or invasive procedures) are prohibited.
Licenses are renewed on the Board's cycle with continuing education and renewal fees; practicing on an expired license is a violation subject to citation.
Establishments must display licenses, post required notices, and maintain sanitation standards; the Board may inspect without prior notice during business hours.
Only licensed individuals may perform services for compensation; booth renters and independent contractors still must hold a current Nevada license and work in a licensed establishment.
Infection-control violations, unsanitary practices, and unlicensed practice are grounds for discipline, including fines, suspension, or revocation.
Client records, including service and patch-test documentation for waxing and chemical services, should be retained per establishment policy and Board requirements.
Advertising and service menus must accurately reflect licensed services; claiming medical or therapeutic results can constitute unprofessional conduct.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin
Epidermis is avascular and depends on diffusion from the dermis; the dermis contains blood vessels, nerves, glands, and collagen and elastin fibers.
Keratinocytes migrate from the stratum basale to the stratum corneum over roughly 28 days in young adults; the cycle slows with age.
Melanocytes in the stratum basale produce melanin; melanin quantity and distribution determine skin color and protect against UV damage.
Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, are most abundant on the face, scalp, and upper trunk, and are influenced by androgens; sebum contributes to acne formation.
Eccrine sweat glands regulate temperature and are widespread; apocrine glands are limited to axillae and groin and become active at puberty.
Sensory receptors in the skin detect touch, pressure, pain, and temperature; motor nerves control arrector pili muscles and gland activity.
Aging changes include thinning epidermis, reduced collagen and elastin, decreased sebum and sweat, and slower barrier recovery; these affect product tolerance and healing.
Vascular and lymphatic networks in the dermis support nutrient delivery and waste removal; lymphatic drainage direction guides massage technique.
Hair Removal and Waxing
Hair growth cycles: anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), telogen (resting); waxing is most effective on anagen hair, and hair should be about 1/4 inch (6 mm) long for grip.
Hard wax is applied warm and removed without strips, good for sensitive areas and coarse hair; soft wax is applied thinly and removed with cloth strips in the direction opposite hair growth.
Wax temperature must be tested before application; overheated wax causes burns, and wax should never be reheated above manufacturer-recommended temperature.
Contraindications include isotretinoin use, recent chemical peels or retinoids on the area, active infection, sunburn, open lesions, and uncontrolled diabetes with poor healing.
Patch test 24-48 hours before first waxing service on a small area; document the result in the client record.
After waxing, apply a soothing post-depilatory product and advise avoiding heat, friction, and sun exposure for 24 hours; do not wax over irritated skin.
Double-dipping applicators is prohibited; use a new applicator or disposable strip for each application and discard used materials.
Ingrown hairs are prevented by exfoliation and moisturizing between services; clients with a history of folliculitis may need referral.
Makeup Application
Foundation shade matching is done along the jawline in natural light; undertone (warm, cool, neutral) matters more than depth alone.
Color theory: complementary colors neutralize; green cancels redness, peach or orange cancels blue or dark circles, and yellow corrects purple bruising.
Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, long) guide contour and highlight placement; contour recedes an area, highlight brings it forward.
Sanitation in makeup: use disposable applicators, spatula product out of containers, never double-dip mascara wands, and sharpen pencils before use.
Eyeshadow placement: light shades on the lid, mid-tone in the crease, dark at the outer corner; blending follows the natural eye shape.
Lash and brow grooming: brow shape follows the bone structure and should be balanced to the face; adhesives and lash products require patch testing.
Long-wear and photographic makeup requires setting with powder and fixing spray; oil-based formulas may photograph with flashback.
Client skin type and sensitivity determine product selection; water-based formulas suit oily skin, cream formulas suit dry or mature skin.
Professional Ethics, Safety, and Client Relations
Scope of practice: estheticians do not diagnose, prescribe, or perform medical procedures; suspicious lesions are referred to a physician.
Informed consent and clear communication about risks, expected results, and aftercare are documented before service.
Confidentiality: client records, health information, and photographs are protected and shared only with consent or as required by law.
Professional boundaries include no treatment while impaired, no service on a client with an active infection, and refusal of service when a contraindication exists.
Conflict resolution: listen, acknowledge, clarify the policy, and document the interaction; escalate unresolved issues to the establishment owner or Board.
Emergency readiness: know the location of first-aid supplies, eyewash, and emergency numbers, and how to respond to allergic reactions or burns.
Ergonomics and self-care: adjust table height, avoid prolonged static posture, and use proper body mechanics to prevent repetitive strain.
Cultural competence and inclusive service: respect pronouns, skin tone diversity, religious and cultural practices, and adapt products accordingly.