NY Barber cheat sheet

Growth patterns: cowlick (whorl) hair grows in a circular direction and stands up; hair stream flows from two opposite directions; both must be cut against the natural fall for control.

Guide types: stationary guide (fixed section used for all lengths), traveling guide (each cut section becomes the next guide), and combination guide (blend of both).

Elevation angles determine graduation: 0 degrees = blunt/one-length, 45 degrees = wedge/graduated, 90 degrees = uniform layers, 180 degrees = long layers.

Cutting positions: blunt cut at natural fall, graduated cut with slight elevation, layered cut at 90 degrees, long-layered at 180 degrees.

Tension rules: fine or damaged hair needs low tension; coarse or resistant hair needs higher tension; uneven tension causes uneven lines.

Clipper guards: number 1 = 1/8 inch, number 2 = 1/4 inch, number 3 = 3/8 inch, number 4 = 1/2 inch; each number adds 1/8 inch.

Cross-checking: cut the same section in the opposite direction to verify length and blend before finishing.

Texturizing tools: thinning shears remove bulk without changing length; razors create soft, tapered ends; notching creates short, irregular pieces.

Dry hair shrinks when wet; cut curly or wavy hair longer than the target to allow for shrinkage.

Shave preparation order: cleanse, apply hot towel, apply lather, shave with the grain, re-lather, shave across the grain, finish with cold towel and aftershave.

Razor angle: hold the razor at about 30 degrees to the skin; too steep causes nicks, too flat causes razor burn.

Stroke rules: use short, even strokes; never shave over an area without lather; never stretch skin over a bony prominence.

Beard design: outline the jawline and cheek line first, then trim length; a neckline sits about one finger width above the Adam's apple.

Mustache trimming: comb hair downward, trim the outer edge, and keep the line above the upper lip vermilion border.

Hot towel contraindications: do not apply to clients with sensitive skin, rosacea, or recent chemical peels; use lukewarm instead.

Aftershave products: witch hazel and alcohol-based toners tighten pores and disinfect; moisturizers restore the lipid barrier.

Contraindications for shaving: moles, warts, abrasions, sunburn, and skin infections must be avoided; shave around them.

Sanitizing (disinfection) is the process of killing most microorganisms on surfaces; sterilization kills all microorganisms including spores.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant must be used on implements that contact skin or blood; follow the label contact time.

Implements must be cleaned of debris before immersion; debris blocks disinfectant contact and reduces efficacy.

Porous items (towels, cotton, neck strips) are single-use and must be discarded after each client; they cannot be disinfected.

Blood exposure: stop service, put on gloves, clean the wound, apply antiseptic, cover it, then disinfect all contaminated surfaces and implements.

Hand washing: use soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds, scrub between fingers and under nails, then dry with a disposable towel.

Electrical safety: unplug appliances before cleaning, keep cords away from water, and never immerse electrical tools in liquid.

Material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) must be available for every chemical product in the shop; it lists hazards and first-aid measures.

Implements that nicked or cut a client must be cleaned, disinfected, and set aside; if they cannot be disinfected, they must be discarded.

Hair structure: cuticle (outer protective layer), cortex (middle layer with pigment and strength), medulla (innermost core, absent in fine hair).

Hair growth cycles: anagen (growth, 2-6 years), catagen (transition, 2-3 weeks), telogen (rest, about 3 months), then shedding.

Skin layers: epidermis (outer, no blood vessels), dermis (nerves, glands, hair follicles), subcutaneous (fat and insulation).

Facial bones relevant to barbering: frontal, parietal, temporal, zygomatic (cheekbone), maxilla (upper jaw), mandible (lower jaw).

Facial muscles: frontalis raises the brow, temporalis closes the jaw, masseter chews, orbicularis oculi closes the eye, orbicularis oris closes the lips.

Nerves: the facial nerve (cranial nerve VII) controls facial expression; the trigeminal nerve (V) supplies sensation to the face.

Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; each requires different cleansing and moisturizing products.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum; overactivity causes oily skin and acne; underactivity causes dryness and flaking.

Circulatory system: arteries carry oxygenated blood away from the heart; veins return deoxygenated blood; capillaries connect them.

Barbering in New York is licensed and regulated by the New York State Division of Licensing Services within the Department of State.

A barber apprentice must work under a licensed barber and complete the required apprenticeship hours before qualifying for the licensing exam.

Shop license: a barber shop must hold a current shop license, display it, and have a licensed barber on duty whenever services are performed.

Sanitation standards require disinfected implements for each client, clean towels, and covered containers for soiled linens.

Licenses must be renewed before expiration; practicing on an expired license is a violation subject to fines or license suspension.

Advertising must not use false or misleading claims; license number must appear on advertisements as required by state rules.

Continuing education requirements and renewal periods are set by the Division; check the current renewal cycle and hour requirements.

Unlicensed practice is prohibited; only licensed barbers may perform shaving, haircutting, and chemical services for compensation.

Records of services and client information must be kept confidential; client records are not public information.