NY Cosmetology flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

pH of hair and scalp

Hair and scalp are acidic, ranging about pH 4.5 to 5.5; products far outside that range can swell the cuticle and leave hair rough, dry, or dull.

Soft water versus hard water

Soft water contains few dissolved minerals and lathers easily; hard water carries calcium and magnesium, which can leave shampoo film and reduce shine on the hair.

How surfactants clean hair

A surfactant molecule has a water-loving head and an oil-loving tail; the tail attaches to sebum and soil so water can rinse them away during shampooing.

Effleurage, petrissage, tapotement

Effleurage is light gliding stroking, petrissage is kneading or grasping, and tapotement is rapid tapping; these are the scalp massage movements used during shampoo services.

Elevation in haircutting

Elevation, or projection, is the angle at which hair is held away from the head; zero degrees creates a solid one-length line and 90 degrees produces uniform layers.

Stationary versus traveling guide

A stationary guide stays in one place and every other section is cut to it; a traveling guide moves with each section and is used to build layered shapes.

Point cutting and notching

Point cutting snips into the ends with shears held nearly vertical to soften a line; notching removes small V-shaped pieces for a chunkier, more textured effect.

Cross-checking a haircut

Cross-checking means parting the hair in the opposite direction from the way it was cut to verify that the line is even and the two sides balance.

Parts of a pin curl

A pin curl has a base, a stem that controls direction and movement, and a circle that forms the curl; the stem determines where the resulting wave travels.

Roller size and curl result

Large rollers produce loose, volume-building waves while small rollers produce tight curls; roller diameter and the number of turns control the finished curl pattern.

Thermal iron heat by texture

Fine, damaged, or lightened hair needs about 250 to 310 Fahrenheit; medium texture handles 310 to 350, and coarse resistant hair up to about 390 degrees.

Finger wave technique

Finger waving uses a comb and styling gel to build alternating S-shaped ridges and hollows, worked in sections roughly one to two inches wide on damp hair.

Disulfide bond

A disulfide bond is a strong chemical link between two sulfur atoms on neighboring keratin chains; permanent waves and relaxers break and rebuild these bonds to change shape.

Ammonium thioglycolate

Ammonium thioglycolate is the reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves at about pH 8.5 to 9.5; it breaks disulfide bonds so hair can be reshaped around a rod.

Role of the neutralizer

A neutralizer, usually hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate, rebuilds the disulfide bonds broken during waving and stops chemical action so the new curl holds its shape.

Developer volumes explained

Ten volume developer is about 3 percent peroxide, 20 volume about 6 percent, 30 volume about 9 percent, and 40 volume about 12 percent; higher volumes lift more.

Patch test before aniline tint

A patch test applies a small amount of color product behind the ear or in the elbow fold 24 to 48 hours before the service to detect a possible allergic reaction.

Layers of the epidermis

From deepest to surface the epidermis is stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum, and corneum; new cells form in the basal layer and migrate upward.

Fitzpatrick skin types

The Fitzpatrick scale rates skin from type I, which always burns and never tans, through type VI, deeply pigmented skin that rarely burns and tans easily.

Comedone versus papule

A closed comedo is a plugged follicle with a white cap and an open comedo is a blackhead; a papule is a small inflamed elevation where extraction should be avoided.

Wood's lamp in skin analysis

A Wood's lamp emits ultraviolet light that makes certain conditions fluoresce, helping the esthetician judge hydration, sun damage, and bacterial or fungal involvement before treatment.

Matrix of the nail

The matrix is the living tissue at the base of the nail that produces new plate cells; injury there can cause ridges, grooves, or a permanently split nail.

Nail plate composition

The nail plate is made of tightly packed keratin cells and contains no nerves or blood vessels, so trimming the free edge is painless for the client.

Lunula and eponychium

The lunula is the whitish half-moon at the base of the nail plate; the eponychium is the living skin fold at the nail base that should never be cut with nippers.

Paronychia

Paronychia is an infection of the tissue surrounding the nail that appears red, swollen, and painful; it is a contraindication, so the service is refused and the client referred.

Cleaning versus disinfecting

Cleaning uses soap and water to remove visible debris and many germs; disinfecting uses an EPA-registered product to destroy most microbes, while sterilization destroys all microbial life.

Porous items cannot be disinfected

Items such as wooden sticks, nail files, and pumice sponges absorb liquids and cannot be reliably disinfected, so they must be discarded after use or given to the client.

Quaternary ammonium compounds

Quats are a common hospital-grade disinfectant class used on implements; they must be mixed to the manufacturer's stated dilution and used for the full labeled contact time.

Blood spill procedure

Don gloves, clean the area, then treat it with an EPA-registered tuberculocidal disinfectant at the labeled dilution and let it stand the full contact time before wiping.

New York licensing agency

The New York State Department of State, Division of Licensing Services, licenses appearance enhancement businesses and practitioners including cosmetologists, estheticians, nail specialists, waxers, and natural hair stylists.

New York cosmetology training hours

New York requires 1,000 hours of approved cosmetology training, a minimum age of 17, and a passing state examination before a cosmetology license is issued.

License renewal in New York

New York appearance enhancement licenses, including cosmetology, expire on a four-year cycle and must be renewed for the holder to keep practicing or operating a salon legally.