Hair Cutting and Shaping
Geometry governs the cut
Four ideas control every haircut: sectioning (clean, even partings), distribution (where hair is held relative to its natural fall), elevation or projection angle, and tension. Elevation is measured from the head: 0 degrees is blunt and one-length, 45 degrees is graduated, 90 degrees is uniform layers, 180 degrees is long layers. A stationary guide does not move and builds length; a traveling guide moves with each section. Overdirection shifts weight; cross-checking cuts the opposite way to verify balance.
Tools
Shears do most of the work. A razor softens and textures strong hair but is never used on fine or damaged hair and needs light pressure. Clippers and trimmers handle short tapered cuts and outlines. Sharp shears cut cleanly; dull ones push and fray the ends.
Traps
Expect questions that confuse elevation with distribution, or that ignore tension: hair held tight cuts shorter, hair held loose leaves length. Another favorite is cutting past the guide on a stationary guide, which shortens the perimeter. Also review the men's taper and blend lines, and the difference between a blunt cut (weight at the perimeter) and a graduated cut (weight stacked at the nape or sides).
Rule of thumb
One-length bob below the chin: part into four sections, take a stationary guide at the nape, comb to natural fall, cut at 0 degrees, then cross-check by combing hair the opposite direction.