Esthetics and Skin Care of the Face, Neck, and Scalp
Analyze, then treat
Cleanse and analyze the skin for type (normal, dry, oily, combination), condition (dehydration, sensitivity, aging, acne), and Fitzpatrick phototype to judge treatment caution. Contraindications include contagious or inflamed conditions, open lesions, recent waxing or peels, and some medications. Refer these clients instead of treating them.
Basic facial sequence
Cleanse, exfoliate gently, steam with care, extract, massage, mask, tone, moisturize, and finish with sun protection. Extract only comedones and pustules that are ready, never inflamed cysts. Massage manipulations are effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), and friction (small circles). Work upward and outward following muscle and lymph flow, usually 5-10 minutes.
Scalp care
The scalp is skin too: analyze it, use light pressure, and avoid vigorous massage over abrasions. Never treat a scalp with a suspected fungal or contagious condition; refer it.
Traps
Expect questions that push you to treat contraindicated skin (a client with a cold sore, for example), to massage downward, or to squeeze a cyst rather than extract a comedo. Remember that an esthetic toner is not a hair toner.
Rule of thumb
Oily T-zone with dry cheeks means combination skin: cleanse, exfoliate mildly, steam the T-zone only, extract ready blackheads, massage lightly while avoiding inflammation.