NY Esthetician cheat sheet
NY Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Infection Control and Safety Practices
Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on surfaces but not necessarily bacterial spores; sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.
EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectants must remain in contact with implements for the label's stated contact time; tuberculocidal products are used where blood or body fluids may be present.
Handwashing with soap and water lasts at least 20 seconds; alcohol-based hand sanitizer is used at 60% alcohol or more when hands are not visibly soiled.
Gloves are changed between clients and after contact with blood, body fluids, or contaminated surfaces; gloves do not replace handwashing.
Single-use porous items such as cotton, wooden spatulas, lancets, and gloves cannot be disinfected and are discarded after one use.
Implements follow a clean, disinfect, and store sequence; cleaned tools are stored in a covered, labeled container.
Universal precautions treat all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious regardless of a known diagnosis.
No double-dipping into products; a clean spatula removes product to a secondary container before application.
Active infection, open lesions, fever, or recent surgery is a decision rule to defer service and refer to a physician.
Anatomy, Physiology, and Skin Science
Epidermis layers from deep to superficial are stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum on palms and soles, and corneum.
The dermis has papillary and reticular layers; collagen provides strength and elastin provides recoil.
Skin surface pH is about 4.5 to 5.5, forming the acid mantle from sweat and sebum.
Melanocytes in the stratum basale produce melanin; keratinocytes are the majority cell and synthesize keratin.
Sebaceous glands attach to hair follicles; sebum production is highest in the T-zone.
Eccrine glands regulate temperature through sweat; apocrine glands are located in axillae and groin.
Facial bones include frontal, zygomatic, maxilla, mandible, and nasal bones; the mandible is the only freely movable skull bone.
Muscles of facial expression include frontalis, orbicularis oculi, orbicularis oris, and zygomaticus; the masseter is a muscle of mastication.
The trigeminal nerve, cranial nerve V, is the main sensory nerve of the face; the facial nerve, cranial nerve VII, is motor to expression muscles.
Client Consultation and Skin Analysis
Fitzpatrick type I always burns and never tans; type VI never burns and is deeply pigmented; types II through V are intermediate.
Skin type is genetically determined oil and water balance; skin condition is temporary or changeable, such as dehydration or sensitivity.
Primary lesions include macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, wheal, and cyst; secondary lesions include scale, crust, fissure, scar, and excoriation.
ABCDE melanoma signs are asymmetry, border irregularity, color variation, diameter over 6 mm, and evolving lesion; suspicious lesions are referred.
A patch test is performed 24 to 48 hours before waxing, tinting, or chemical services, and the result is documented.
Informed consent documents the service, products, risks, benefits, alternatives, and client questions.
Medical history includes medications, allergies, pregnancy, surgery, skin disease, and recent cosmetic procedures.
Skin analysis uses cleansing, visual inspection, palpation, and a magnifying lamp; estheticians do not diagnose disease.
Skin Care Treatments and Facial Techniques
Basic facial sequence is cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, steam and extract if indicated, massage, mask, moisturize, and sun protection.
Steam softens comedones before extraction; extraction is avoided on inflamed or cystic lesions and on broken skin.
Mechanical exfoliation uses scrubs or brushes; chemical exfoliation uses alpha-hydroxy or beta-hydroxy acids, and both require barrier assessment.
High-frequency current is used for mild acne and is contraindicated with pacemakers and metal implants.
Galvanic current drives water-soluble products into skin; desincrustation softens sebum.
Microdermabrasion is superficial mechanical exfoliation; avoid over active acne, rosacea, recent retinoic acid use, or sunburn.
Massage is contraindicated with fever, infection, recent surgery, thrombosis, or uncontrolled hypertension.
Clay masks absorb oil for oily skin; hydrating masks suit dry or dehydrated skin, and masks are removed before fully drying to limit barrier stress.
Post-treatment protocol includes broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher and avoidance of heat, exercise, and active ingredients for 24 hours.
Hair Removal, Makeup, and Related Services
Hair growth cycle is anagen for growth, catagen for transition, and telogen for rest; waxing removes anagen hair with its root.
Soft wax is applied thin and removed with strips; hard wax is applied thicker and removed without strips for sensitive areas.
Wax temperature is tested on the inner wrist; wax that is too hot can burn skin and cause hyperpigmentation.
Waxing cautions and contraindications include isotretinoin, retinoids, recent peels, diabetes, immunosuppression, varicose veins, sunburn, and active infection.
Eyebrow waxing includes a patch test, client eyes closed, no wax on eyelids, skin support, and tweezers for stray hairs.
Complementary colors neutralize each other; green concealer reduces redness and peach or orange reduces blue-purple tones.
Foundation is matched to the jawline in natural light; undertone, warm, cool, or neutral, determines the shade family.
Makeup sanitation includes no double-dipping mascara or lip products, sharpened pencils, sanitized brushes, and disposable applicators.
Threading uses twisted cotton thread to trap hair; sugaring uses water-soluble sugar paste.
Business Practices and New York State Law and Regulations
New York esthetics licensure requires 600 hours of approved training, the state examination, an application, and a fee.
New York has a separate waxing license requiring 75 hours of approved training.
An appearance enhancement business license is required for each location offering esthetics, waxing, makeup, nail, or hair services.
Licenses must be displayed or available for inspection at the business; unlicensed practice is prohibited.
New York sanitation rules require approved disinfectants, clean and sanitized implements, and no reuse of single-use items.
Esthetician scope includes skin care, makeup, waxing, tweezing, and superficial extraction, but not diagnosis, prescriptions, or independent laser treatment.
Laser hair removal in New York requires physician authorization or supervision; estheticians cannot perform it independently.
Client records should document consent, patch tests, products used, and adverse reactions; confidentiality applies.
Business owners must comply with New York State Department of State licensing rules and applicable local health and sanitation rules.