NY Esthetician study materials
NY Esthetician study resources

NY Esthetician cheat sheet

NY Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.

Quick reference

Infection Control and Safety Practices

  • Disinfection kills most pathogenic organisms on surfaces but not necessarily bacterial spores; sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.

  • EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectants must remain in contact with implements for the label's stated contact time; tuberculocidal products are used where blood or body fluids may be present.

  • Handwashing with soap and water lasts at least 20 seconds; alcohol-based hand sanitizer is used at 60% alcohol or more when hands are not visibly soiled.

  • Gloves are changed between clients and after contact with blood, body fluids, or contaminated surfaces; gloves do not replace handwashing.

  • Single-use porous items such as cotton, wooden spatulas, lancets, and gloves cannot be disinfected and are discarded after one use.

  • Implements follow a clean, disinfect, and store sequence; cleaned tools are stored in a covered, labeled container.

  • Universal precautions treat all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious regardless of a known diagnosis.

  • No double-dipping into products; a clean spatula removes product to a secondary container before application.

  • Active infection, open lesions, fever, or recent surgery is a decision rule to defer service and refer to a physician.

Quick reference

Anatomy, Physiology, and Skin Science

  • Epidermis layers from deep to superficial are stratum basale, spinosum, granulosum, lucidum on palms and soles, and corneum.

  • The dermis has papillary and reticular layers; collagen provides strength and elastin provides recoil.

  • Skin surface pH is about 4.5 to 5.5, forming the acid mantle from sweat and sebum.

  • Melanocytes in the stratum basale produce melanin; keratinocytes are the majority cell and synthesize keratin.

  • Sebaceous glands attach to hair follicles; sebum production is highest in the T-zone.

  • Eccrine glands regulate temperature through sweat; apocrine glands are located in axillae and groin.

  • Facial bones include frontal, zygomatic, maxilla, mandible, and nasal bones; the mandible is the only freely movable skull bone.

  • Muscles of facial expression include frontalis, orbicularis oculi, orbicularis oris, and zygomaticus; the masseter is a muscle of mastication.

  • The trigeminal nerve, cranial nerve V, is the main sensory nerve of the face; the facial nerve, cranial nerve VII, is motor to expression muscles.

Quick reference

Client Consultation and Skin Analysis

  • Fitzpatrick type I always burns and never tans; type VI never burns and is deeply pigmented; types II through V are intermediate.

  • Skin type is genetically determined oil and water balance; skin condition is temporary or changeable, such as dehydration or sensitivity.

  • Primary lesions include macule, papule, pustule, vesicle, wheal, and cyst; secondary lesions include scale, crust, fissure, scar, and excoriation.

  • ABCDE melanoma signs are asymmetry, border irregularity, color variation, diameter over 6 mm, and evolving lesion; suspicious lesions are referred.

  • A patch test is performed 24 to 48 hours before waxing, tinting, or chemical services, and the result is documented.

  • Informed consent documents the service, products, risks, benefits, alternatives, and client questions.

  • Medical history includes medications, allergies, pregnancy, surgery, skin disease, and recent cosmetic procedures.

  • Skin analysis uses cleansing, visual inspection, palpation, and a magnifying lamp; estheticians do not diagnose disease.

Quick reference

Skin Care Treatments and Facial Techniques

  • Basic facial sequence is cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, steam and extract if indicated, massage, mask, moisturize, and sun protection.

  • Steam softens comedones before extraction; extraction is avoided on inflamed or cystic lesions and on broken skin.

  • Mechanical exfoliation uses scrubs or brushes; chemical exfoliation uses alpha-hydroxy or beta-hydroxy acids, and both require barrier assessment.

  • High-frequency current is used for mild acne and is contraindicated with pacemakers and metal implants.

  • Galvanic current drives water-soluble products into skin; desincrustation softens sebum.

  • Microdermabrasion is superficial mechanical exfoliation; avoid over active acne, rosacea, recent retinoic acid use, or sunburn.

  • Massage is contraindicated with fever, infection, recent surgery, thrombosis, or uncontrolled hypertension.

  • Clay masks absorb oil for oily skin; hydrating masks suit dry or dehydrated skin, and masks are removed before fully drying to limit barrier stress.

  • Post-treatment protocol includes broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher and avoidance of heat, exercise, and active ingredients for 24 hours.

Quick reference

Hair Removal, Makeup, and Related Services

  • Hair growth cycle is anagen for growth, catagen for transition, and telogen for rest; waxing removes anagen hair with its root.

  • Soft wax is applied thin and removed with strips; hard wax is applied thicker and removed without strips for sensitive areas.

  • Wax temperature is tested on the inner wrist; wax that is too hot can burn skin and cause hyperpigmentation.

  • Waxing cautions and contraindications include isotretinoin, retinoids, recent peels, diabetes, immunosuppression, varicose veins, sunburn, and active infection.

  • Eyebrow waxing includes a patch test, client eyes closed, no wax on eyelids, skin support, and tweezers for stray hairs.

  • Complementary colors neutralize each other; green concealer reduces redness and peach or orange reduces blue-purple tones.

  • Foundation is matched to the jawline in natural light; undertone, warm, cool, or neutral, determines the shade family.

  • Makeup sanitation includes no double-dipping mascara or lip products, sharpened pencils, sanitized brushes, and disposable applicators.

  • Threading uses twisted cotton thread to trap hair; sugaring uses water-soluble sugar paste.

Quick reference

Business Practices and New York State Law and Regulations

  • New York esthetics licensure requires 600 hours of approved training, the state examination, an application, and a fee.

  • New York has a separate waxing license requiring 75 hours of approved training.

  • An appearance enhancement business license is required for each location offering esthetics, waxing, makeup, nail, or hair services.

  • Licenses must be displayed or available for inspection at the business; unlicensed practice is prohibited.

  • New York sanitation rules require approved disinfectants, clean and sanitized implements, and no reuse of single-use items.

  • Esthetician scope includes skin care, makeup, waxing, tweezing, and superficial extraction, but not diagnosis, prescriptions, or independent laser treatment.

  • Laser hair removal in New York requires physician authorization or supervision; estheticians cannot perform it independently.

  • Client records should document consent, patch tests, products used, and adverse reactions; confidentiality applies.

  • Business owners must comply with New York State Department of State licensing rules and applicable local health and sanitation rules.