OH Esthetician cheat sheet
OH Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Infection Control and Sanitation
Ohio defines three tiers: cleaning (soap and water, removes debris), disinfection (EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal product), and sterilization (autoclave or chemical sterilant, destroys spores).
Single-use items (cotton, spatulas, wooden applicators, lancets, gloves) are discarded after one client and are never disinfected or reused.
Implements that contact skin or blood, such as tweezers, comedone extractors, and metal spatulas, must be cleaned then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant, or sterilized.
Porous or absorbent items that cannot be disinfected (towels, linen, sponges, buffing blocks) are single-use or laundered with detergent and bleach; they are never merely sprayed.
Disinfectant contact time is the label's wet time; a surface wiped dry early is not disinfected. Follow the manufacturer's dilution and immersion time exactly.
Handwashing uses soap and running water for at least 20 seconds, before and after each client, after restroom use, and after removing gloves; hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.
Blood and body-fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb with disposable material, clean the area, then disinfect with an EPA-registered product at label strength; contaminated waste goes in a closed container.
A client with a suspected contagious condition (cold sore, conjunctivitis, ringworm, impetigo, lice) is referred out; service is deferred until resolved, and the station is cleaned and disinfected.
Ohio requires a wet sanitizer container with a covered, labeled disinfectant at each station and a covered waste container; implements are stored clean and dry in a closed cabinet.
Anatomy and Physiology
Skin layers: epidermis (avascular, keratinized, renews about every 28 days), dermis (nerves, blood vessels, glands, hair follicles, collagen and elastin), and subcutaneous layer (fat, insulation, shock absorption).
The epidermis strata from deepest to surface are basale, spinosum, granulosum, and corneum; melanocytes in the basale produce melanin that determines color and protects from UV.
Facial bones include frontal, zygomatic (cheekbone), maxilla (upper jaw), mandible (lower jaw, only movable facial bone), nasal, and lacrimal; the skull's cranium protects the brain.
Muscles of expression are innervated by the facial nerve (cranial nerve VII); the trigeminal nerve (V) supplies sensation to the face. Masseter and temporalis are muscles of mastication.
The esthetician works over the epidermis and superficial dermis; the motor point of a muscle is where nerve impulses enter, and massage strokes generally move toward the heart and along muscle fiber direction.
Sebaceous glands secrete sebum and are largest on the face, scalp, and upper back; eccrine sweat glands regulate temperature, and apocrine glands are in the axillae and genital area.
Lymphatic drainage of the face flows to the submental, submandibular, parotid, and cervical nodes; swollen or tender nodes are not massaged and are referred for medical evaluation.
Circulation: arteries carry oxygenated blood away from the heart, veins return deoxygenated blood; capillaries exchange nutrients and waste in the dermis.
Nerve endings in the skin sense touch, pressure, heat, cold, and pain; sensation testing and client feedback guide pressure and product temperature during facial treatments.
Skin Analysis and Conditions
Fitzpatrick skin types I to VI are classified by burning and tanning response; type I always burns and never tans, type VI is deeply pigmented and rarely burns.
Skin types: normal, dry (alipidic, flaky, tight), oily (enlarged pores, shine, comedones), combination (oily T-zone, normal or dry cheeks), and sensitive (reactive, redness, stinging).
Lesion vocabulary: papule (raised, no fluid), pustule (raised with pus), comedo (open blackhead or closed whitehead), macule (flat color change), wheal (itchy raised hive), nodule (deep solid mass), cyst (sac with fluid).
Acne grades: grade I comedones, grade II papules and pustules, grade III nodules, grade IV cystic with scarring; grades III and IV are medical and referred to a dermatologist.
Contraindications to facial service include active infection, open lesions, sunburn, recent chemical peel or waxing, fresh bruising, and undiagnosed lesions; refer rather than treat.
Telangiectasia (dilated capillaries), rosacea (flushing, papules, sensitivity), and hyperpigmentation (melasma, sun damage) are managed with gentle care, sun protection, and referral, not aggressive exfoliation.
Skin cancer warning signs follow the ABCDE rule: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter over 6 mm, and Evolving change; any suspicious lesion is referred to a physician.
Older skin shows thinning epidermis, reduced collagen and elastin, decreased sebum, and slower healing; treatments use gentler exfoliation, more hydration, and lower pressure.
Analysis sequence: cleanse, observe under magnification and proper lighting, palpate, note oiliness, hydration, pore size, lesions, and sensitivity, then document findings and select products.
Client Consultation and Documentation
The intake form captures name, contact, medications, allergies, pregnancies, medical conditions, prior treatments, and skin concerns; it is reviewed and updated at each visit.
Informed consent is obtained before service, explaining the procedure, expected outcome, risks, and alternatives; the client signs and dates the record.
Contraindication screening covers isotretinoin (Accutane) within 6 to 12 months, retinoids, blood thinners, photosensitizing drugs, recent peels, waxing, and laser, plus active infection.
Patch testing is performed 24 to 48 hours before a new tint, lash, or wax product; the result is recorded in the client file.
Documentation includes date, service performed, products and strengths, skin analysis, client response, adverse reactions, home care recommended, and the esthetician's signature and license number.
Records are confidential, stored securely, and retained per Ohio State Board of Cosmetology and Barbering rules; clients may request copies, and records are not shared without written consent.
Consultation includes a skin history question about sun exposure, smoking, alcohol, water intake, diet, stress, and current home-care routine, which shape product and treatment choices.
Service refusal or modification is documented with the reason; the esthetician has the right and duty to decline service when a contraindication or infection is present.
Client communication uses plain language, avoids diagnosing disease, and explains that estheticians treat the skin's appearance, not medical conditions, referring concerns to a physician.
Facial Treatments and Skincare Procedures
Standard facial sequence: consultation, cleanse, skin analysis, exfoliation, steam and extraction if indicated, massage, mask, toner, moisturizer, sun protection, and home-care recommendation.
Steam is held about 8 to 10 inches from the face for 5 to 10 minutes; it softens sebum and prepares pores for gentle extraction, and is avoided with rosacea or sensitivity.
Extraction uses a covered finger or comedone extractor with light pressure, only on pustules and comedones that are ready; deep or cystic lesions are not extracted.
Facial massage strokes are effleurage (light gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), and friction; they increase circulation and are avoided over infection, bruising, or broken skin.
Chemical exfoliants: alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic) and beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) loosen dead cells; strengths and timing are chosen by skin type, with post-care sun protection.
Masks are selected by skin need: clay for oily skin, hydrating gel or cream for dry skin, and calming formulas for sensitive skin; mask time follows the manufacturer's instructions.
Contraindications to facial massage and heat include high blood pressure, recent surgery, sunburn, active acne, infection, and pregnancy-related sensitivity; adjust the protocol.
Post-treatment care includes avoiding sun, heat, and strong actives for 24 to 48 hours, using broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, and documenting the client's response.
Ohio estheticians practice skin care of the face, neck, and décolleté; services beyond the scope, such as deep chemical peels or medical treatments, require a physician's direction.
Hair Removal Techniques
Waxing removes hair from the follicle; the hair should be at least 1/4 inch (about 6 mm) long for effective gripping, and the direction of growth determines application and removal.
Wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it, holding skin taut; hard wax is used on sensitive areas and soft wax with strips on larger areas.
Contraindications to waxing include isotretinoin use, retinoids, blood thinners, diabetes with poor circulation, active infection, sunburn, recent peels, and varicose veins in the area.
Wax temperature is tested on the inner wrist or back of the hand; wax that is too hot causes burns, and overheated wax is never applied to the face.
Double-dipping a spatula into the wax pot contaminates the product; a fresh spatula is used each time, and single-use strips and applicators are discarded.
Threading uses cotton thread twisted to trap hair; it is suited to sensitive skin and brows, and the area is cleaned and soothed afterward.
Tweezing is for shaping and stray hairs, not full removal; hairs are grasped at the base and pulled in the direction of growth with the skin held taut.
Post-wax care: soothe with a cold compress or calming product, avoid heat, sun, tight clothing, and fragranced products for 24 hours, and advise exfoliation after 48 hours to prevent ingrown hairs.
Lash and brow tinting requires a patch test 24 to 48 hours before service, protective shields, and careful timing; a reaction cancels the service and is documented.
Makeup Application
Color theory: complementary colors sit opposite on the color wheel and neutralize; green cancels redness, yellow corrects purple bruising, peach corrects blue, and lavender brightens sallow tones.
Foundation shade is matched to the jawline and neck in natural light; undertone (warm, cool, neutral) is confirmed by vein color and how the skin reacts to sun.
Face shapes guide contouring and highlighting: oval is balanced, round is softened with contour at the sides, square is softened at the jaw corners, and heart is balanced at the forehead and chin.
Eye shadow placement follows the eyelid and crease; lighter shades highlight the brow bone, mid-tones cover the lid, and deeper shades define the crease and outer corner.
Sanitation in makeup: lip and eye products are never shared without disinfection, pencils are sharpened between clients, and product is removed with a clean spatula, never fingers, from the container.
Concealer is applied after foundation to cover blemishes and under-eye circles; it is set with powder to prevent creasing, and green or peach correctors go under foundation.
Brow shaping follows the golden ratio: the brow begins above the inner corner of the eye, arches at the outer edge of the iris, and ends at the outer corner of the eye.
Lash application: strip lashes are trimmed to the eye, glue is applied to the band and allowed to become tacky, and the lash is placed close to but not on the natural lash line.
Bridal and photography makeup uses more contrast, matte finishes, and long-wear, water-resistant formulas; a trial and a touch-up kit are planned before the event.
Chemistry and Product Knowledge
pH scale runs 0 to 14; 7 is neutral, skin's acid mantle is about 4.5 to 5.5, and products outside that range can disrupt the barrier.
Surfactants clean by lowering surface tension; they have a hydrophilic head and lipophilic tail, and cleansers are matched to skin type to avoid stripping.
Emulsions combine oil and water with an emulsifier; oil-in-water (lotion, light cream) is lighter, and water-in-oil (rich cream) is heavier and more occlusive.
Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol) attract water, emollients (oils, esters) soften and smooth, and occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) seal moisture in.
Antioxidants (vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid) neutralize free radicals from UV and pollution; vitamin C also brightens and supports collagen, and is stabilized in acidic formulas.
Exfoliating acids: AHAs are water-soluble and work on the surface; BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble and penetrates pores, suited to oily and acne-prone skin.
Retinoids speed cell turnover and stimulate collagen; they cause photosensitivity and irritation, so they are used at night with sunscreen and introduced gradually.
Preservatives prevent microbial growth in water-containing products; products are stored away from heat and light, and expired or discolored products are discarded.
Ingredient labels list ingredients in descending order of concentration; the first five usually make up most of the formula, and fragrance and dyes appear last in small amounts.
Ohio Laws, Rules and Professional Ethics
The Ohio State Board of Cosmetology and Barbering licenses estheticians, salons, and schools; a license is displayed at the workstation and renewed on the Board's schedule.
Ohio esthetician scope covers skin care of the face, neck, and décolleté, including cleansing, facials, makeup, hair removal by waxing, tweezing, and threading, and lash and brow services.
Services outside the scope, such as deep chemical peels, laser, injectables, and medical treatments, require a physician's supervision or a separate license.
Sanitation rules require EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectants for implements, single-use items discarded after one client, and a covered waste container.
Salon rules require handwashing facilities, clean towels per client, and a wet sanitizer at each station; violations can lead to fines, suspension, or license revocation.
Ethics include client confidentiality, informed consent, honest representation of services and products, no diagnosing disease, and no practicing while impaired.
Advertising must be truthful and not claim medical results; the license number and salon name are used accurately, and unlicensed practice is prohibited.
Continuing education and license renewal are required by the Board; practicing on a lapsed license is a violation, and the license is posted where clients can see it.
Clientele records are confidential; a client's information is not disclosed without written permission, and the esthetician maintains professional boundaries at all times.