Makeup Application
What the exam tests
Makeup questions test color theory, undertone matching, face and eye shapes, corrective techniques, and cosmetic sanitation. Ohio includes makeup application within esthetics, so scope and hygiene matter as much as artistry.
Core concepts
- Color wheel: primary red, yellow, and blue; secondary orange, green, and violet; tertiary blends. Complementary pairs neutralize: green cancels red, violet cancels yellow, and orange cancels blue.
- Undertone: warm is golden or peach, cool is pink or blue, and neutral is a balance. Match foundation at the jawline in natural light and test several shades, not the hand.
- Face shapes: oval, round, square, heart, diamond, and oblong. Highlight recedes and contour deepens; use sparingly and blend.
- Eye shapes: close-set, wide-set, deep-set, prominent, hooded, and monolid. Adjust liner, shadow placement, and lashes.
- Sanitation: spatula out product, use disposable mascara wands, sharpen pencils, sanitize palettes, never double-dip, do not use testers on clients, and wash brushes.
Worked example
A client with cool undertones and redness wants a natural foundation. Reasoning: a pink or cool foundation can emphasize redness; a neutral-to-warm shade with green color correction may balance better. Test at the jawline, blend, and check in daylight.
Traps
- Matching foundation to the wrist.
- Using the same mascara wand on multiple clients.
- Over-contouring a round face into stripes.
- Ignoring latex or cosmetic allergies.