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OK Barber: Chemical Texture Services

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Chemical Texture Services

What this domain tests

Chemical texture services test relaxer and perm chemistry, strand and test-curl evaluation, application timing, scalp protection, neutralization, and incompatibility. The exam focuses on preventing overprocessing and chemical burns.

Core rules

  • Relaxers are strongly alkaline and break disulfide bonds; perms also reshape bonds but use different chemistry and pH. Follow the manufacturer's directions for each product.
  • A strand test or test curl predicts processing time and results. Check before applying to the whole head.
  • For a virgin relaxer, apply to the midshaft and ends before the new growth unless the product directs otherwise. For a retouch, apply only to new growth to avoid overlapping.
  • Protect the scalp with a base and avoid scratching or irritating the scalp before service.
  • Neutralizer stops processing and rebuilds disulfide bonds; use enough product and leave it on for the full directed time.
  • Do not perm over relaxed hair or relax over a fresh color service without checking compatibility and manufacturer guidance.

Worked example

A client returns for a relaxer retouch eight weeks after the last service. The reasoning is to apply relaxer only to the new growth, because overlapping already relaxed hair would overprocess it and risk breakage. The previously relaxed hair is protected, and neutralizer is applied thoroughly after rinsing.

Traps

Overlapping relaxer, rinsing before processing is complete, or cutting neutralizer time short are mark-losers. Another trap is treating a test curl as optional when the hair history is unknown.