OK Cosmetology cheat sheet

Sanitation reduces the number of pathogens on surfaces; disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including bacterial spores.

Implements used on skin, hair, or nails must be cleaned of debris first, then immersed in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the full contact time printed on the label.

Porous items (nail files, buffers, wooden sticks, cotton, emery boards) absorb liquids and cannot be disinfected reliably, so they are single-use and must be discarded.

Quaternary ammonium compounds, phenols, and bleach solutions are common salon disinfectants; a tuberculocidal claim indicates the product can kill the organism that causes tuberculosis.

Blood or body-fluid exposure: stop the service, put on gloves, cleanse the area, apply antiseptic and a bandage, then clean and disinfect all contacted surfaces and double-bag contaminated materials.

Hand washing with soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client service and after removing gloves.

Electrical safety requires UL-listed equipment, ground-fault circuit interrupter protection near water, intact cords, and no water contact with plugged-in tools.

Safety Data Sheets (SDS) must be on file for every chemical product in the salon, and products must never be transferred into unlabeled containers.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth, roughly 2-6 years, about 90% of scalp hair), catagen (transition, about 2-3 weeks), telogen (rest, about 3 months), then exogen shedding.

Hair shaft layers from outside in: cuticle (protective scales), cortex (about 90% of the weight, holds melanin and disulfide bonds), medulla (core, may be absent in fine hair).

Elevation determines structure: 0 degrees = blunt/one-length, 45 degrees = graduated, 90 degrees = uniformly layered, 180 degrees = long-layered or increased-layering.

Hair analysis covers texture (coarse/medium/fine), density (thin to thick), porosity (resistance to moisture), and elasticity (ability to stretch and return).

Wet hair stretches about 40-50% of its length before breaking; dry hair stretches only about 20%, so never comb or cut tension into wet hair.

Subsection width should never exceed the width of the cutting tool; consistent parting and subsection size produce an even line.

Texturizing options: thinning shears remove bulk without changing length, razors create softer ends, notching and point cutting create broken, blended ends.

Acid-balanced shampoos fall near the hair's natural pH of 4.5-5.5 and help close the cuticle; high-pH or clarifying formulas swell the cuticle and strip residue.

Color wheel: primary colors are red, yellow, and blue; secondary colors are orange (red+yellow), green (yellow+blue), and violet (blue+red); complementary pairs sit opposite and neutralize each other.

Hair color levels run 1 (black) through 10 (lightest blonde); the level describes lightness/darkness, while tone describes warm, cool, or neutral character.

Developer volumes: 10 volume (3% peroxide) lifts about 1 level, 20 volume (6%) about 2, 30 volume (9%) about 3, and 40 volume (12%) about 4.

Product categories: temporary color coats the cuticle, semi-permanent deposits without developer and fades in a few shampoos, demi-permanent uses low-volume developer, permanent color lifts and deposits inside the cortex.

A patch test (allergy test) is applied 24-48 hours before a color service; a strand test checks processing time, development, and the resulting tone on the client's own hair.

Permanent waves use thioglycolic acid or its salts to break disulfide bonds in the cortex; the neutralizer (usually hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) rebuilds the bonds in the new shape.

Hydroxide relaxers are high-pH (sodium hydroxide near pH 13.5; no-lye versions use calcium hydroxide plus guanidine) and are stopped by rinsing and acid-balanced shampoo, not by a neutralizer.

A relaxer retouch is applied only to new growth, and hair should not be shampooed or the scalp irritated for at least 24-48 hours before a relaxer service.

Nail structures: nail plate, nail bed, matrix (produces new cells and determines plate shape), lunula, eponychium (living cuticle), hyponychium, free edge, sidewalls, and nail folds.

Fingernails grow about 3.5 mm (1/8 inch) per month, roughly 0.1 mm per day; fingernails grow faster than toenails and the longer middle finger nail grows fastest.

The nail plate is about pH 4.5-5.5 and can become dehydrated, brittle, and split when repeatedly exposed to harsh soaps, acetone, or improper filing.

File in one direction from corner to center with a fine-grit file to avoid splitting; metal pushers, nippers, and nippers used on living tissue require cleaning and hospital-grade disinfection between clients.

Nail disorders to refer rather than treat: onychomycosis (fungal infection), paronychia (bacterial infection of surrounding tissue), onychorrhexis, and nail psoriasis.

Artificial nail products: liquid monomer plus powder polymer form acrylic; ethyl methacrylate (EMA) is the accepted monomer, while methyl methacrylate (MMA) is restricted or banned because of allergic reactions and nail damage.

Pedicure footbaths must be cleaned and disinfected with an EPA-registered product after each client, and single-use liners or basins should be used where required.

Skin layers: epidermis (stratum corneum, granulosum, spinosum, basale), dermis (collagen, elastin, nerves, glands, vessels), and subcutaneous layer (fat and insulation).

The acid mantle is a slightly acidic film near pH 4.5-5.5 formed by sebum and sweat; it inhibits bacteria and helps the skin retain water.

Skin types: normal, dry (needs emollients and cream cleansers), oily (needs gel or foaming products and clay masks), and combination (treat zones differently).

The Fitzpatrick scale classifies skin types I-VI by response to ultraviolet light and guides sun-protection recommendations; SPF 30 or higher with UVA/UVB coverage is standard.

Facial massage movements: effleurage (light gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction (rubbing), and vibration (shaking).

Exfoliation is mechanical (scrubs, brushes) or chemical (alpha hydroxy acids for surface cells, beta hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid for pores); over-exfoliation causes redness and barrier damage.

Contraindications for facials and waxing include sunburn, open lesions, active acne with inflammation, recent chemical peels or laser, and current use of isotretinoin or topical retinoids.

Only non-inflamed comedones are extracted; pustules, cysts, and moles are not to be disturbed and the client is referred to a physician.

Bones of the head and face include frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital, ethmoid, sphenoid, zygomatic, maxilla, and mandible; the neck's main bone is the cervical vertebra.

Muscles of the face and head include frontalis, occipitalis, temporalis, masseter (chewing), zygomaticus (smiling), procerus, and orbicularis oculi and oris.

Nerves: the fifth cranial (trigeminal) carries sensation from the face, and the seventh cranial (facial) is the motor nerve for muscles of facial expression.

Arteries supplying the head include the temporal, occipital, posterior auricular, and facial (external maxillary) arteries; these are also common massage pressure points.

The pH scale runs 0-14: below 7 is acidic, 7 is neutral, above 7 is alkaline; each whole number represents a tenfold change in hydrogen ion concentration.

Matter organization: elements (one kind of atom), molecules (bonded atoms), compounds (chemically joined elements), and mixtures such as solutions, suspensions, and emulsions.

Chemical reactions include oxidation (loss of electrons or addition of oxygen) and reduction (gain of electrons); reactions may release heat (exothermic) or absorb heat (endothermic).

Surfactants are molecules with a water-loving head and oil-loving tail; they lift sebum and soil into water so shampoo and cleanser can rinse it away.

The Oklahoma State Board of Cosmetology and Barbering licenses practitioners, instructors, schools, and establishments, adopts sanitation rules, conducts inspections, and may fine, suspend, or revoke a license.

A person must hold a current, valid license for the specific service performed (cosmetology, barbering, esthetics, manicuring, or instructing) and may not practice outside that scope.

Practitioners must follow board sanitation rules at every workstation, keep credentials available for board inspection, and display licenses as the board requires.

Diagnosing or treating a disease or condition of the skin, hair, or nails is outside the scope of a cosmetology license and is grounds for disciplinary action.

Client records should document the date, service, products and formulations used, and any reactions; records are confidential and support safe repeat services.

Licensure carries renewal requirements set by board rule, including continuing education and fee payment; practicing on a lapsed license is a violation.

Ethical practice includes informed consent, honest disclosure of product ingredients and realistic outcomes, avoiding guarantees of results, and respecting client confidentiality.

Retail and service pricing must cover product cost, overhead, and profit; a common target is retail price at roughly double the wholesale cost, with the service price covering labor and fixed costs.