PA Esthetician cheat sheet

Levels of control: sanitation (cleaning to safe levels), disinfection (destroys most pathogens on implements), sterilization (destroys all microbial life including spores, not required for routine esthetic tools).

Implements must be washed with soap and warm water, rinsed, dried, then fully immersed in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant labeled bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal and pseudomonacidal for the label contact time (commonly 10 minutes).

Disinfected tools are stored in a clean, covered container; porous items such as cotton, sponges, wooden sticks, files and gauze are single-use and discarded.

Hand washing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is the single most effective infection control measure; perform before and after every client and after removing gloves.

Pathogen categories: bacteria (cocci round, bacilli rod, spirilla spiral), viruses (must have a host, e.g., herpes simplex, HBV, HIV), fungi (tinea, onychomycosis) and parasites (pediculosis, scabies).

Standard (universal) precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; wear gloves, and dispose of broken glass or sharp implements in a labeled sharps container.

Refuse service and refer out for fever blisters, impetigo, conjunctivitis, ringworm, lice, scabies, or any oozing or undiagnosed lesion.

OSHA requires a Safety Data Sheet (formerly MSDS) for every chemical in the salon, kept accessible to workers; label all secondary containers.

Epidermis layers, outer to inner: stratum corneum (dead keratinocytes), stratum lucidum (palms and soles only), stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum (Langerhans immune cells), stratum basale (melanocytes, mitosis).

Thinnest epidermis is on the eyelids (about 0.04-0.06 mm); thickest is on palms and soles (about 1.5 mm).

Dermis has two layers: papillary (thin, capillary loops feeding the epidermis) and reticular (thick collagen for strength, elastin for elasticity).

Subcutaneous layer is adipose tissue; it insulates the body and absorbs shock.

Acid mantle pH is roughly 4.5-5.5; mildly acidic film limits bacterial growth and supports barrier moisture retention.

Six functions of skin: protection, sensation, heat regulation, excretion, secretion and absorption.

Skin cancers: basal cell carcinoma (most common, pearly, rarely metastasizes), squamous cell carcinoma (can metastasize), melanoma (least common, most dangerous).

Melanoma warning signs use ABCDE: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter over 6 mm, Evolving lesion; refer, never treat.

Standard facial sequence: consultation and skin analysis, cleanse, exfoliate, steam, extractions, massage, mask, tone, moisturize and sun protection.

Steam is applied 3-10 minutes with the client 12-18 inches from the unit; water is changed and the unit sanitized between clients.

Massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction and vibration; strokes generally move upward and outward, following lymph toward the nodes.

Skip massage over inflamed acne, sunburn, open lesions, bruising, or recent injectables; avoid pressure on the anterior neck (carotid sinus).

Extract only softened, non-inflamed comedones with a comedone extractor; never squeeze cystic acne, moles or vascular lesions.

Mask selection: clay for oily and combination skin, gel for hydrating and sensitive skin, paraffin for dry and mature skin, modeling/alginate for contouring.

Drape the client, protect the hairline with a wrap or headband, and remove all makeup before analysis so the skin surface is visible.

Average facial massage runs 15-30 minutes; total treatment length and steps are adjusted to skin type and sensitivity.

Eleven body systems: integumentary, skeletal, muscular, nervous, circulatory, lymphatic/immune, respiratory, digestive, excretory, endocrine and reproductive.

Skull has 8 cranial bones and 14 facial bones; facial bones include mandible, maxilla, zygomatic, nasal, lacrimal, palatine, vomer, inferior turbinate and ethmoid.

Muscles of facial expression: frontalis, procerus, corrugator, orbicularis oculi, orbicularis oris, zygomaticus, risorius, mentalis and buccinator.

Muscles of mastication: masseter, temporalis and pterygoids; the masseter closes the jaw and is often massaged during a facial.

Fifth cranial nerve (trigeminal) is the chief sensory nerve of the face; seventh cranial nerve (facial) is the chief motor nerve controlling facial expression.

Arteries carry blood away from the heart (common carotid divides into internal and external); veins carry blood back to the heart; capillaries exchange gases and nutrients.

Lymph nodes of the head and neck include submental, submandibular, cervical, occipital and parotid nodes; lymph flows toward the heart.

Hair growth phases: anagen (active growth, 2-6 years), catagen (transition, a few weeks), telogen (resting, about 3 months).

Wax is applied in the direction of hair growth and removed against it while the skin is held taut; soft wax uses strips, hard wax is applied thicker and removed without strips.

Temperature rule: warm wax should feel comfortably warm on the inner wrist, not hot; overheating causes burns and the wax must be discarded rather than reheated indefinitely.

Chemical depilatories use thioglycolate (often calcium or potassium thioglycolate) at a high pH to break disulfide bonds and dissolve hair at the surface; patch test 24-48 hours ahead.

Contraindications for waxing: isotretinoin within six months, topical retinoids within 1-2 weeks, recent chemical peel or laser, sunburn, active infection, moles, varicose veins, fragile or diabetic skin.

Never apply depilatory over broken skin or near the eyes, and never combine waxing and depilatory on the same area in one visit.

Tweezing grasps a single hair near the base and pulls in the direction of growth; tweezers are disinfected and sharp tips go in a sharps container.

Post-wax care: no sun, heat, friction or harsh actives for 24-48 hours; recommend exfoliation and moisturizing to reduce ingrown hairs.

Match foundation to the jawline in natural light, not to the hand; test 2-3 shades closest to the face and blend down the neck.

Undertones: warm shows yellow/peach/golden, cool shows pink/red/bluish, neutral is a balance; foundation shade family is chosen to complement the undertone, not to change it.

Lash extension curl grades run J, B, C, D from straightest to most dramatic; diameters range about 0.05-0.25 mm and lengths about 6-17 mm.

Classic sets place one extension per natural lash; volume sets use 2-6 lighter extensions per lash, and each natural lash must be isolated before bonding.

Cyanoacrylate lash adhesive cures best at roughly 45-60% humidity and 68-72 degrees F; use a patch test 24-48 hours before first full application.

Never double-dip mascara or lash adhesive wands; use disposable applicators, sharpen pencils between clients, and sanitize palettes and brushes.

Brow mapping uses three points: start above the inner corner (tear duct), arch at the outer edge of the iris, tail at the outer corner of the eye.

Tinting products require a 24-48 hour patch test; do not tint with conjunctivitis, eye infection or a known dye allergy.

pH scale runs 0-14 with 7 neutral; skin sits near pH 4.5-5.5, so leave-on products should be mildly acidic rather than alkaline.

Alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, citric) are water-soluble and act on the surface; beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) is oil-soluble and penetrates pores.

Humectants attract water (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, sorbitol); emollients soften and smooth (oils, esters, fatty alcohols); occlusives reduce water loss (petrolatum, mineral oil, dimethicone).

Antioxidants neutralize free radicals; vitamin C is stabilized by acidic pH, opaque and airless packaging, and is often paired with vitamin E and ferulic acid.

An emulsion needs an emulsifier; oil-in-water emulsions feel light and rinse easily, while water-in-oil emulsions feel richer and are suited to dry skin.

Surfactants are amphiphilic (water-loving head, oil-loving tail); they lift sebum and debris into water so they can be rinsed away.

Any product containing water needs a preservative system (e.g., phenoxyethanol, parabens) to prevent microbial growth; jars are more prone to contamination than pumps.

On an ingredient label, ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration; those at 1% or less may be listed in any order after that point.

Modalities and currents: galvanic (direct current), high frequency (alternating current, Tesla/violet ray), microcurrent (millionths of an amp), ultrasound (sound waves above 20,000 Hz), LED, vacuum, rotary brush and steamer.

Galvanic current: iontophoresis drives water-soluble products into the skin; desincrustation softens sebum and prepares skin for extractions.

High frequency produces ozone and warmth through a glass electrode; used on oily, acne-prone skin and to support healing, never on clients with epilepsy or pregnancy without clearance.

Microcurrent uses very low amperage to stimulate ATP and muscle tone; contraindicated for pacemakers, pregnancy, epilepsy and thrombosis.

LED therapy is non-thermal and non-UV: red (about 630-700 nm) for collagen and healing, blue (about 405-420 nm) for acne bacteria; shield the eyes of both client and operator.

Ultrasound requires a coupling gel, a constantly moving wand, and is avoided over bone, the thyroid, the abdomen in pregnancy, cancer sites and pacemakers.

Safety routine: inspect cords and plugs, keep equipment away from water, unplug by the plug, turn the intensity dial to zero before and after use, and use only UL-listed devices.

Remove metal jewelry and piercings in the treatment area before electrical services; document device settings and skin response in the client record.

Consultation covers medical history, medications, allergies, prior cosmetic procedures, current home care, lifestyle, and the client's expectations and goals.

Fitzpatrick scale types I-VI classify response to UV: type I always burns and never tans; type VI is deeply pigmented and rarely burns.

Skin type is the inherited baseline (normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive); a skin condition is a temporary state such as dehydration, acne or redness, and is treated differently.

Analyze cleansed skin under a magnifying lamp; Wood's lamp fluorescence can suggest oil (yellow), dehydration (violet) or pigmentation (brown).

Absolute contraindications include active infection, recent isotretinoin, pregnancy for certain electrical modalities, and pacemakers; local contraindications include sunburn, open lesions, eczema and bruising.

Any lesion that is asymmetric, irregular-bordered, multi-colored, over 6 mm or changing is referred to a physician; an esthetician does not diagnose.

Document informed consent, the treatment plan, products used and client response in SOAP format (Subjective, Objective, Assessment, Plan), and keep records confidential.

The Pennsylvania State Board of Cosmetology sits within the Department of State's Bureau of Professional and Occupational Affairs and licenses cosmetologists, estheticians, nail technicians and teachers.

Pennsylvania training hours: cosmetologist 1,250, esthetician 300, nail technician 200, and teacher 500 hours in a board-approved school.

The esthetician scope covers skin care, makeup and hair removal; haircutting, coloring, relaxing and permanent waving require a cosmetology license.

A current license (or certified copy) must be conspicuously displayed at the work station or place of business and carried when services are performed off-site.

Licenses renew on a biennial cycle; practicing on an expired or lapsed license is a violation subject to disciplinary action.

Board sanitation rules prohibit eating, drinking and smoking in the service area, require covered waste containers, clean linens per client, and disinfected implements stored separately from soiled ones.

Salons must hold a current shop license and pass board inspections; unlicensed practice, unsanitary conditions and false advertising are grounds for fines, suspension or revocation.

Ethical duties: protect client confidentiality, obtain informed consent, stay within scope of practice, and decline services that are unsafe for the client.