Hair Removal Techniques (Waxing, Tweezing, Depilatory)
Methods
- Soft (strip) wax - applied with the hair growth, removed against it with a strip; suited to larger areas.
- Hard (stripless) wax - shrinks and lifts the hair itself; better for coarse, sensitive, or small areas such as the upper lip, brows, underarms, and bikini.
- Sugar paste - water-soluble; applied against the grain and removed with it in many techniques.
- Tweezing - shaping and single hairs. Electrolysis is permanent and requires a separate license.
- Depilatories - chemical (thioglycolate) products that break disulfide bonds in keratin and dissolve hair just below the surface. Patch test 24–48 hours ahead, respect the time limit exactly, never apply to broken or irritated skin, never near eyes or eyelashes, and note that most boards prohibit depilatories on eyebrows.
Wax should be warm, not hot - test on your inner wrist. Hold the skin taut, remove quickly and parallel to the skin, then apply pressure.
Contraindications
Isotretinoin (Accutane) within the past 6–12 months; topical retinoids, acids, or recent peels on the area; sunburn, active herpes, warts, or open lesions; moles (never wax over one); varicose veins; diabetes or compromised circulation without physician clearance; clients on blood thinners (bruising). Anagen-phase hair gives the best result.
Rule of thumb: if the skin is irritated, medicated, or recently resurfaced, reschedule - wax only healthy, intact skin.