SC Barber cheat sheet

Sterilization destroys all microbial life, including bacterial spores; disinfection kills most pathogens on hard, nonporous surfaces but does not reliably destroy spores.

Implements that contact blood or body fluids must be cleaned with soap and water, rinsed, dried, then fully immersed in an EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant.

Follow the label contact time exactly; a common hospital-grade immersion time is 10 minutes, and solutions must be mixed and replaced per manufacturer directions.

Order of operation: clean, rinse, dry, disinfect, then store in a closed labeled container; organic soil left on an implement inactivates the disinfectant.

Porous items that cannot be cleaned and disinfected (paper emery boards, wooden sticks, cotton, neck strips) are single-use and must be discarded after one client.

Blood or body-fluid spill: stop the service, don gloves, absorb and remove the material, clean, then disinfect the surface with an EPA-registered disinfectant, bag the waste, and wash hands.

Hand washing means soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds; hand sanitizer is not a substitute after contact with blood or body fluids.

Electrical clippers: remove hair from the blade, then apply a disinfectant spray or wipe per the manufacturer; never immerse the clipper body in liquid.

Head lice or a contagious scalp condition is a referral: do not service, and disinfect all implements and the station before the next client.

Four basic forms: solid (0 degrees), graduated (45 degrees), uniform-layered (90 degrees), increase-layered (180 degrees).

Elevation angles: 0 degrees = blunt/solid perimeter line; 45 degrees = graduation and stacked weight; 90 degrees = uniform layers; 180 degrees = long, increased layers.

Stationary guide = one fixed subsection that every other subsection is cut to; traveling guide = the guide moves with each new subsection.

Cross-check by cutting the same area from the opposite side or parting; uneven partings show up as a ridge, gap, or heavy corner.

Natural fall = hair hanging in its natural position; perpendicular distribution = hair held at a right angle to the curve of the head.

Texturizing (point cutting, notching, slithering) removes bulk and weight from the ends without shortening the overall length.

Clipper-over-comb: the comb is held against the head with teeth angled slightly outward; the closer the comb sits to the head, the shorter the result.

Cut wet for precision and control; cut dry to check balance, texturize, and finish clipper work.

Blow-dry direction rule: airflow from scalp to ends and downward smooths the cuticle; lifting at the root with a round brush builds volume.

Straight razor angle is about 30 degrees, roughly one spine width off the skin; use short strokes and stretch the skin ahead of the blade with the free hand.

First pass follows the direction of hair growth; across-the-grain or against-the-grain passes give a closer shave but raise irritation and ingrown-hair risk.

Hone on a stone to shape and grind the edge; strop on leather to polish and realign it; strop before and after each use.

Apply lather in the direction of hair growth and work it in with a shaving brush to lift the hair and hold moisture against the skin.

Hot towel before the shave softens the beard and relaxes follicles; a cool towel afterward tones the skin and closes follicles.

Contraindications to shaving: abrasions, sunburn, active acne or skin infection, recent chemical peel or waxing - refer the client out.

Detachable razor blades are single-use and go into a closed sharps container; the razor handle is cleaned and disinfected after every client.

Pseudofolliculitis barbae management: single-blade razor, shave with the grain, do not stretch hair taut, and avoid very close shaves.

Beard outline rule: set the neckline about one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple and follow the natural cheek line from the outer corner of the eye.

Hair and scalp are naturally acidic at about pH 4.5 to 5.5; acid-balanced shampoos fall in this range, while relaxers are strongly alkaline.

Sodium hydroxide relaxers run about pH 12 to 14; guanidine hydroxide (no-lye) about pH 10; ammonium thioglycolate relaxers about pH 9 to 9.5.

Relaxers break disulfide bonds by reduction; the neutralizer stops the action and rebuilds the bonds by oxidation.

Neutralize with an acidic shampoo, typically 2 to 3 lathers, until relaxer residue is gone and the hair returns to its normal pH.

Patch test 24 to 48 hours before a color or chemical service; strand test a small section to set processing time and predict the result.

Developer volumes: 10 volume = 3% hydrogen peroxide, 20 volume = 6%, 30 volume = 9%, 40 volume = 12%; 20 volume lifts 1 to 2 levels, 30 volume 2 to 3, 40 volume 3 to 4.

Do not relax hair treated with metallic salts or compound henna, and do not apply chemical services over abrasions or an irritated scalp.

Scalp massage manipulations: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction, and vibration, worked upward toward the crown.

Water hardness changes shampoo behavior: soft water lathers easily, hard water leaves a mineral film that dulls the hair.

Hair layers, inner to outer: medulla (often absent in fine hair), cortex (melanin, strength, elasticity), cuticle (overlapping scales).

Follicle structures: dermal papilla (blood and nerve supply), sebaceous gland (sebum), arrector pili muscle (causes goose bumps).

Growth cycle: anagen (active growth, roughly 2 to 6 years), catagen (transition, a few weeks), telogen (rest, about 3 months), exogen (shedding).

Fifth cranial (trigeminal) nerve - ophthalmic, maxillary, mandibular branches - carries sensation to the scalp and face; the seventh cranial (facial) nerve is motor to the facial muscles.

South Carolina regulator: the Board of Barber Examiners within the SC Department of Labor, Licensing and Regulation (LLD/LR); it licenses barbers, barber instructors, and barbershops.

SC barber licensure requires 1,500 clock hours of board-approved training plus passing the written and practical examinations; the license is displayed where the barber works.

SC shop requirements include hot and cold running water, an adequately supplied restroom, closed containers for clean and soiled items, and a posted shop license.

Board inspectors may enter and inspect a licensed barbershop; violations can result in fines, suspension, or revocation of a license.