VA Esthetician cheat sheet

Skin has three main layers: the avascular epidermis (five strata), the dermis (collagen, elastin, vessels, glands, nerves), and the subcutaneous layer (fat, insulation, contour).

The acid mantle sits at pH ~4.5-5.5; alkaline soaps and cleansers raise surface pH, increasing dryness, irritation, and bacterial growth.

The Fitzpatrick scale types I-VI classify burning and tanning response to UV; types I-II burn easily and require gentler treatments and higher SPF.

Cell renewal averages about 28 days in young skin and slows with age and photodamage, producing dullness, uneven tone, and retained keratin.

Eccrine glands cover most of the body and regulate temperature; apocrine glands are limited to axillae and groin, respond to hormones and stress, and produce odor when bacteria break down secretions.

AHAs (glycolic, lactic) are water-soluble and act on the surface; BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble and penetrates pores, making it suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.

Sebaceous glands secrete sebum into hair follicles; androgens raise output, and trapped sebum plus keratin forms open and closed comedones.

Hair cycle: anagen (active growth, 2-6 years), catagen (transition, ~2 weeks), telogen (rest, ~3 months); only anagen follicles respond to electrolysis.

Emulsions are oil-in-water (light, water is the continuous phase) or water-in-oil (rich, water droplets suspended in oil); surfactants allow oil and water to combine.

Standard facial sequence: consultation and skin analysis, cleansing, exfoliation, extractions when indicated, massage, mask, toner, moisturizer, and SPF.

Five massage movements: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction (rubbing), and vibration (shaking).

Extraction applies only to non-inflamed comedones and pustules after softening the skin; cystic, inflamed, or undiagnosed lesions are never squeezed.

Absolute contraindications include contagious infection, active cold sores, open wounds, and recent surgery or waxing in the treatment area.

Isotretinoin within six months, recent chemical peels, and current retinoid or AHA use raise the risk of skin lifting and barrier damage.

Peel depth: superficial (stratum corneum only), medium (papillary dermis, healing up to ~3 weeks), deep (reticular dermis, physician-performed).

Patch test acids, peels, tints, and adhesives 24-48 hours before a first service when allergy risk exists, and record the result.

Document products used, skin response, and aftercare instructions in the client record after every treatment.

Hair must be about 1/4 inch (6 mm) long for wax to grip; trim longer hair, and note that body hair grows roughly 1/2 inch per month.

Apply soft wax in the direction of hair growth, press the strip, hold skin taut, and pull the strip quickly against the growth direction.

Hard wax is applied thicker, shrinks around hair as it cools, and is removed without a strip; it is preferred for the face, underarms, and bikini.

Test wax temperature on the inner wrist before application; overheated wax causes burns, and hard wax is applied warm rather than hot.

No double-dipping: use a fresh spatula or disposable dipper for each application, and discard used wax and strips immediately.

Contraindications: isotretinoin within six months, recent retinoid or AHA use, sunburn, varicose veins, moles, broken skin, and diabetes-related poor healing.

Depilatories dissolve hair at the surface with thioglycolate and last a few days; waxing removes hair from the bulb and lasts three to six weeks.

Aftercare: avoid heat, friction, sun, and tight clothing for 24-48 hours, then exfoliate gently to reduce ingrown hairs and folliculitis.

Color correction: green cancels red, peach or orange cancels blue, yellow cancels purple, and lavender cancels yellow; apply thin layers under foundation.

Undertones are warm (yellow or golden), cool (pink or blue), or neutral; match foundation to the jawline in natural light.

Face shapes include oval, round, square, heart, diamond, and oblong; contouring recedes areas while highlighting brings them forward.

Lash extension styles: classic (1:1), hybrid, and volume (2D-6D lightweight fans per natural lash); curls J, B, C, D give increasing lift.

Lash adhesive is cyanoacrylate-based and cures with moisture; higher humidity speeds cure and low humidity slows it, so both are monitored.

Patch test adhesive 24-48 hours before the first application and keep the client's eyes closed throughout the service.

Never share mascara or adhesive; use disposable applicators and sanitize brushes and tools between clients.

A lash lift uses a chemical relaxing cream plus setting lotion to curl natural lashes, with results lasting about six to eight weeks.

Three levels: sanitation (cleaning, reduces microbes), disinfection (kills most pathogens on nonporous surfaces), sterilization (kills all organisms including spores).

Use only EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectants labeled bactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal, and tuberculocidal for implements that contact skin.

Follow the label contact time: clean implements with soap and water, dry them, then submerge fully for the stated number of minutes.

Porous items such as pumice, foam files, wooden sticks, and cotton cannot be disinfected reliably and are single-use, discarded after each client.

Wash hands with soap and water for at least 20 seconds before and after each client, and wear gloves when blood or body fluids may be present.

Prevent contamination: no double-dipping, cap and label secondary containers, and keep Safety Data Sheets accessible in the salon.

Blood spill procedure: stop the service, don gloves, cleanse the wound, disinfect all contacted surfaces with hospital-grade disinfectant, and dispose of waste in a biohazard bag.

UV cabinets are not a substitute for chemical disinfection, and electrical equipment must be kept away from water and inspected for cord damage.

Virginia estheticians are licensed by the Board for Barbers and Cosmetology within the Department of Professional and Occupational Regulation, under regulations 18VAC41.

Minimum training is 600 clock hours for esthetician licensure and 1,200 clock hours for master esthetician through a Board-approved school.

Virginia also licenses wax technicians separately from estheticians, with a shorter Board-set training requirement for waxing-only services.

The individual practitioner license and the salon establishment license must both be current, and the license or a certified copy must be available at the work location for inspection.

Scope of practice covers facials, skin care, makeup, waxing, and lash services; diagnosing skin disease, prescribing, or performing medical treatments is prohibited.

Esthetician licenses renew every two years; practicing on an expired license is unlawful, and licensees must keep name and address information current with the Board.

Board sanitation rules require cleaning and disinfecting implements before each client and discarding single-use items; violations can result in fines, suspension, or revocation.