WI Esthetician cheat sheet

Sanitation reduces microbe counts on surfaces; disinfection destroys pathogens (not spores) on implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life, including spores - UV cabinets and disinfectant jars do not sterilize.

An EPA-registered, hospital-grade (tuberculocidal) disinfectant is required for implements that may contact blood or body fluids; use the exact label dilution and the full label contact time.

Decision rule for implements: porous or hard-to-clean items (cotton, wooden sticks, files, pumice, sponges) are single-use and discarded; nonporous items (metal, glass, hard plastic) are cleaned, then disinfected, then stored covered.

Hand hygiene: wash with soap and warm water before and after every client, after glove removal, and after restroom or eating; sanitizer does not replace washing on visibly soiled hands.

Blood or body-fluid exposure: stop the service, don gloves, clean the area, disinfect contaminated implements and surfaces with a tuberculocidal hospital-grade disinfectant at label contact time, and discard contaminated single-use items.

Chain of infection order: pathogen → reservoir → portal of exit → mode of transmission → portal of entry → susceptible host; breaking any one link prevents transmission.

Hepatitis B survives on dried surfaces at least 7 days and is more infectious than HIV, which is fragile and dies quickly outside the host; herpes, MRSA, and tinea spread via tools, towels, and hands.

OSHA: keep a Safety Data Sheet for every chemical on site, label all secondary containers, and prohibit eating, drinking, and smoking in the service area.

Skin is the largest organ; layers are epidermis (avascular), dermis (papillary and reticular), and subcutaneous layer (hypodermis).

Epidermal strata in order: basale (germinativum) → spinosum → granulosum → lucidum (palms and soles only) → corneum.

Epidermal cell types: keratinocytes (majority), melanocytes (pigment), Langerhans cells (immune), Merkel cells (touch).

Renewal: mitosis occurs in the stratum basale, cells keratinize as they migrate upward, and turnover averages about 28 days, slowing with age and photoaging.

Dermis composition: collagen (strength), elastin (recoil), glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid (hydration), fibroblasts (produce fibers), plus vessels, nerves, glands, and follicles.

Acid mantle pH is about 4.5–5.5; the barrier is the stratum corneum 'bricks and mortar' of corneocytes plus intercellular lipids, and barrier damage raises water loss and sensitivity.

Glands: eccrine (whole body, thermoregulation), apocrine (axillae and genital area, odor), sebaceous (attached to follicles, sebum; densest on face, scalp, chest, back).

UV: UVA is long-wave, reaches the dermis, and drives photoaging and pigmentation; UVB is short-wave, affects the epidermis, and is the primary cause of sunburn and DNA damage.

Skin functions: protection, sensation, thermoregulation, secretion and excretion, limited absorption, vitamin D synthesis, and immune surveillance.

Skin types: normal, dry (alipidic), oily, combination, and sensitive/rosacea-prone; the Fitzpatrick scale (I–VI) classifies burn-versus-tan response and treatment risk.

Analysis sequence: cleanse → magnifying lamp and Wood's lamp → palpation → record texture, pore size, hydration, oiliness, pigmentation, vascularity, and lesions → identify contraindications → build the plan.

Primary lesions: macule, papule, vesicle, bulla, pustule, wheal, nodule, cyst, tumor. Secondary lesions: scale, crust, erosion, ulcer, fissure, scar, excoriation.

Refuse or postpone service for contagious or open conditions: herpes simplex, impetigo, ringworm/tinea, conjunctivitis, scabies, lice, weeping lesions, sunburn, and recent peels or laser.

ABCDE melanoma screening: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter greater than 6 mm, Evolving; refer suspected lesions because estheticians do not diagnose or treat skin cancer.

Acne involves retention hyperkeratosis, sebum, and Cutibacterium acnes; it is noninflammatory (open and closed comedones) or inflammatory (papules, pustules, nodules, cysts).

Pigmentation: hyperpigmentation (melasma, post-inflammatory, lentigines) versus hypopigmentation (vitiligo, albinism); melanocyte numbers are similar across skin tones, but activity and melanosome packaging differ.

Aging: intrinsic (genetic, thinning, slower turnover) versus extrinsic (UV, smoking, free radicals causing collagen and elastin breakdown, coarse wrinkles, dyschromia).

Facial sequence: consultation and analysis → cleanse → exfoliate → extractions if indicated → massage → mask → tone and moisturize → sunscreen; steam softens comedones but is avoided on rosacea and sensitive skin.

Mechanical exfoliation uses scrubs, brushes, or dermabrasion; chemical exfoliation uses AHAs (glycolic, lactic, malic - water-soluble, surface-acting) or BHA (salicylic - lipid-soluble, pore-penetrating, anti-inflammatory).

Acid exfoliation depends on concentration, low pH, and time on skin; follow only the manufacturer protocol, protect eyes and lips, neutralize when required, and finish with broad-spectrum SPF.

Massage strokes: effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (percussion), friction and vibration; direction follows muscle fibers and lymph drainage toward lymph nodes.

Waxing rules: patch and temperature test, apply in the direction of hair growth and remove against it, hair at least 6 mm (1/4 inch); contraindicated with isotretinoin (wait 6 months), retinoids, recent peels, sunburn, varicose veins, and moles.

Ingredient functions: humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) bind water; emollients (oils, fatty acids, lanolin) soften; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) reduce water loss; surfactants cleanse; antioxidants (vitamins C and E) neutralize free radicals.

Actives: retinoids (increase turnover, photosensitizing), niacinamide (barrier and sebum support), tyrosinase inhibitors (hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin) for pigment, peptides, and salicylic acid for pores; during pregnancy avoid retinoids and hydroquinone and consult on salicylic acid.

Devices: galvanic (desincrustation and iontophoresis), high frequency, microcurrent, and LED; contraindicated with pacemakers, pregnancy, epilepsy, metal implants, or photosensitizing medications - always check the device manual.

Wisconsin: Wis. Stat. ch. 471 and Department of Safety and Professional Services rules govern barber, cosmetologist, esthetician, manicurist, and electrologist credentials; establishments and schools are also licensed and inspected.

Esthetician scope: skin care of the face, neck, and décolleté, makeup, waxing and tweezing hair removal, and superficial exfoliation; no diagnosis or treatment of disease, no injectables, no medical or laser procedures.

Only a currently licensed person may perform services for compensation; the credential must be posted or readily available at the work location, and practicing on an expired license is prohibited.

Wisconsin credentials renew on a biennial cycle; late renewal adds fees, and any applicable continuing-education requirement must be satisfied before renewal.

Sanitation in practice: disinfect reusable implements before each client, discard single-use items, launder towels and linens after each use, and wash hands before and after service.

Employment models: an employee is scheduled and supervised by the salon, which withholds payroll taxes and carries liability; a booth renter is self-employed, pays rent, files their own taxes, and carries their own insurance.

Business records: keep client cards with treatment notes, patch-test results, and product history; protect client confidentiality and obtain informed consent before service.

Wisconsin retail sales of professional products are taxable and reported separately from service income; keep receipts and consult Wisconsin Publication 201 for current guidance.