AK Cosmetology cheat sheet

Hair is roughly 90% protein (keratin); the cortex provides strength, elasticity, and pigment, while the cuticle is the outer protective layer.

pH scale runs 0-14: hair and skin are acidic near pH 4.5-5.5; alkaline products swell and open the cuticle, acidic products contract and close it.

Three side bonds: hydrogen bonds (broken by water/heat, re-form on cooling), salt bonds (broken by pH change), disulfide bonds (broken only by chemical relaxers/perms).

Wet hair stretches up to about 50% of its length before breaking; dry hair stretches about 20% - never brush wet hair aggressively.

Cortex layers determine texture; coarse hair has a wider diameter and more layers of cuticle, fine hair has fewer, making it more vulnerable to chemical damage.

Hair growth cycle: anagen (active growth, roughly 2-7 years), catagen (transition, weeks), telogen (resting/shedding, about 3 months).

Shampoo selection rule: surfactant-based formulas lift oil; conditioner lowers pH, smooths cuticle, and reduces static by adding moisture and light film.

Blow-dryer thermal rule: keep air moving along the hair shaft, and hold heat tools away from scalp; temperatures above roughly 450°F (232°C) risk protein damage.

Permanent wave process: reducing agent breaks disulfide bonds (thioglycolate or bisulfite), thio neutralizer or hydrogen peroxide rebuilds them in the new shape.

Relaxers: ammonium thioglycolate ("thio") for fine/light hair; sodium hydroxide (lye) or guanidine hydroxide (no-lye) for resistant hair - both are strongly alkaline and require a strand test.

Relaxer retouch rule: apply product only to new growth, never pull through previously relaxed hair (risk of overprocessing and breakage).

Color wheel: primary colors are red, yellow, blue; complementary pairs neutralize (red cancels green, blue cancels orange, yellow cancels violet).

Level system: hair color levels run 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); developer volume determines lift - 10 vol deposits, 20 vol lifts ~1-2 levels, 30 vol ~2-3, 40 vol ~3-4.

Patch test: apply a small amount of color product behind the ear or inner elbow 24-48 hours before service to detect allergy.

Strand test determines processing time and expected result before full application; always follow manufacturer's timing and never exceed it.

Ammonia in color opens the cuticle and allows dye to penetrate; semi-permanent colors deposit without lifting and fade over 4-6 shampoos.

Nail plate is composed mainly of keratin; the matrix at the base produces new cells, and the lunula is the visible whitish half-moon of the matrix.

Cuticle (eponychium) seals the nail base; the hyponychium is the seal under the free edge; the nail bed is the skin under the plate.

Nail growth averages about 3.5 mm (1/8 inch) per month for fingernails; toenails grow slower, about 1.5 mm per month.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, round, oval, and pointed - shape choice follows natural free-edge contour and client lifestyle.

Disinfection rule: implements that contact blood or body fluids are cleaned, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant at label dilution and contact time.

Nail disorder vs. disease: onychomycosis (fungal infection), paronychia (bacterial infection of skin around nail), and onycholysis (separation of plate from bed) are conditions to refer, not treat.

Gel and acrylic enhancements require proper monomer/polymer ratio and curing; over-filing the natural plate thins it and causes lifting and sensitivity.

Porous or damaged nails absorb product unevenly - always assess nail plate condition before service and avoid aggressive buffing.

Skin layers: epidermis (outer, avascular), dermis (contains collagen, elastin, blood vessels, nerves), and subcutaneous layer (fat and connective tissue).

Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive - determined by sebum production, moisture level, and reactivity, not by pore size alone.

Fitzpatrick scale (I-VI) classifies sun sensitivity and predicts risk of burning; it guides treatment intensity and sun-protection advice.

Cleansing, exfoliation, extractions (only where permitted), massage, mask, and moisturizer are the standard facial sequence; extractions are limited to non-medical, surface comedones.

Sensitive skin: patch test products, avoid high concentrations of acids, and use fragrance-free, low-irritant formulas.

Acne is a medical condition; estheticians may perform cleansing and mild exfoliation but must not diagnose or treat with prescription-level products.

Sun protection: broad-spectrum SPF 30+ daily; UVA causes aging (deep penetration), UVB causes burning (epidermal).

Contraindications for facial services include open lesions, recent chemical peels, active cold sores, and skin infections - refer to a physician.

Three levels: sanitation (cleaning to reduce germs), disinfection (kills most pathogens on surfaces/implements), sterilization (destroys all microorganisms including spores).

EPA-registered hospital-grade tuberculocidal disinfectant is required for implements that contact skin or blood; follow label dilution and contact time exactly.

Blood spill protocol: stop service, apply gloves, clean with soap and water, disinfect with an EPA-registered disinfectant, and dispose of contaminated materials in a sealed bag.

Single-use items (cotton, wooden sticks, nail files, razor blades) must be discarded after one client - never reused.

Hand washing with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds is the primary infection control measure; hand sanitizer is not a substitute for visibly soiled hands.

Implements must be cleaned (soap and water, scrubbed) before disinfection - disinfectant cannot penetrate debris.

Safety Data Sheets (SDS) must be on file for every chemical product in the salon and accessible to employees.

Electrical and fire safety: keep cords away from water, unplug tools after use, and store flammable chemicals away from heat sources.

Hair follicle structure: bulb at base, papilla supplies blood and nutrients, sebaceous gland lubricates, arrector pili muscle causes "goosebumps."

Three hair growth stages: anagen (growth), catagen (transition), telogen (rest); shedding of 50-100 hairs per day is normal.

Hair disorders: alopecia (loss), hirsuties (excess growth), canities (graying), monilethrix (beaded hair), trichoptilosis (split ends), and fragilitas crinium (brittle hair).

Skin disorders: acne, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, and seborrheic dermatitis are medical conditions; estheticians may not diagnose or treat them.

Contagious conditions requiring referral and no service: tinea (ringworm), impetigo, scabies, lice, and active herpes simplex (cold sores).

Melanin determines skin and hair color; melanocytes produce it, and loss of melanin causes graying and vitiligo.

Sweat glands: eccrine (regulate temperature, whole body) and apocrine (associated with hair follicles, active at puberty).

Nerves and blood vessels in the dermis supply sensation and nutrition; massage increases circulation but must avoid areas of inflammation or injury.

Alaska cosmetology licensing is administered by the Board of Barbers and Hairdressers under the Division of Corporations, Business and Professional Licensing (CBPL).

License renewal in Alaska is biennial (every two years); licensees must complete the continuing education hours required by the board for the current renewal cycle.

Salon/shop licensing: a shop must hold a current license and display it; a licensed operator may not work in an unlicensed shop.

Sanitation standards in Alaska follow board regulations: implements disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant, single-use items discarded, and hand washing required between clients.

Advertising and price lists must be accurate; licensees may not use false or misleading claims, and must display license and fee schedule as required.

Professional ethics: maintain client confidentiality, obtain informed consent before chemical services, disclose product risks, and never perform services outside your scope of practice.

Scope of practice: cosmetologists may perform hair, nail, and skin services defined by statute; medical procedures (e.g., injecting, diagnosing skin disease) are outside scope.

Alaska requires reporting of suspected communicable disease outbreaks to the board; licensees must follow current board advisories and statutes, which control over any conflicting guidance.