AK Cosmetology study materials
AK Cosmetology study resources

AK Cosmetology flashcards

AK Cosmetology · Build recall with a focused review session.

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Cortex function
The middle layer of the hair shaft that provides strength, elasticity, and natural pigment. Chemical services alter the cortex, so damage here weakens the whole hair strand.
Disulfide bond
A strong chemical bond between sulfur atoms in keratin that gives hair its shape. It is broken only by chemical relaxers and permanent wave solutions, then rebuilt during neutralization.
Anagen phase
The active growth phase of the hair cycle, lasting roughly two to seven years. Most scalp hair is in this phase at any given time.
PH and cuticle
Hair and skin are naturally acidic near pH 4.5-5.5. Alkaline products swell the hair and open the cuticle, while acidic products contract it and smooth the surface.
Wet hair elasticity
Wet hair can stretch about 50 percent of its length before breaking, compared with roughly 20 percent when dry. Wet hair is therefore more fragile and prone to stretching damage.
Conditioner purpose
Conditioners lower the hair's pH, smooth and close the cuticle, reduce static, and add a light protective film that improves manageability and shine.
Thioglycolate relaxer
An alkaline reducing agent used in permanent waves and some relaxers. It breaks disulfide bonds so hair can be reshaped, and requires a neutralizer to rebuild them.
Relaxer retouch rule
Apply relaxer only to new growth at the scalp. Never pull product through previously relaxed hair, because overprocessing causes breakage and irreversible damage.
Color wheel neutralization
Complementary colors cancel each other: red cancels green, blue cancels orange, and yellow cancels violet. This principle corrects unwanted tones in hair color.
Developer volume
The strength of hydrogen peroxide used in hair color. Ten volume deposits color, 20 lifts about one to two levels, and 30 to 40 lift more with greater damage risk.
Patch test timing
Apply a small amount of color product behind the ear or inner elbow 24 to 48 hours before the service to detect an allergic reaction before full application.
Strand test purpose
A strand test predicts processing time, color result, and hair condition before a full chemical service. It reduces the risk of overprocessing or unexpected color.
Semi-permanent color
A deposit-only color that adds tone without lifting natural pigment. It fades gradually over about four to six shampoos and does not require a developer to lighten.
Nail matrix
The tissue at the base of the nail that produces new nail cells. Damage to the matrix permanently affects nail growth and shape.
Lunula
The visible whitish half-moon at the base of the nail plate. It is the portion of the matrix seen through the nail plate.
Fingernail growth rate
Fingernails grow about 3.5 millimeters, or one-eighth inch, per month. Toenails grow slower, roughly 1.5 millimeters per month.
Onychomycosis
A fungal infection of the nail plate or bed. It is a medical condition that estheticians and nail technicians must not treat; refer the client to a physician.
Paronychia
A bacterial infection of the skin surrounding the nail, often from hangnails or cuticle damage. It causes redness and swelling and requires medical referral.
Disinfection vs sterilization
Disinfection destroys most pathogens on surfaces and implements. Sterilization destroys all microorganisms, including spores, and is required only for items used in invasive procedures.
Tuberculocidal disinfectant
An EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant proven to kill the tuberculosis bacterium. It is the standard for implements that contact skin or body fluids.
Blood spill protocol
Stop the service, put on gloves, clean the area with soap and water, disinfect with an EPA-registered product, and seal contaminated materials for disposal.
Single-use items
Items such as cotton, wooden sticks, files, and razor blades that cannot be adequately disinfected. They must be discarded after one client and never reused.
Hand washing standard
Wash hands with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds before and after each client. Hand sanitizer does not replace washing when hands are visibly soiled.
Safety Data Sheets
Documents that describe a chemical's hazards, safe handling, and first aid. The salon must keep an SDS on file for every chemical product used.
Epidermis
The outer, avascular layer of skin that protects underlying tissue. It contains melanocytes that produce pigment and continually renews itself.
Fitzpatrick scale
A six-level classification of skin sun sensitivity and burning tendency. It guides treatment intensity and sun-protection counseling for clients.
Sensitive skin protocol
Use fragrance-free, low-irritant products, patch test before services, and avoid high concentrations of acids. Discontinue any treatment that causes redness or burning.
UVA vs UVB
UVA rays penetrate deeply and contribute to aging, while UVB rays affect the surface and cause burning. Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher protects against both.
Hair growth stages
Hair cycles through anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest and shedding). Shedding 50 to 100 hairs daily is within normal range.
Alopecia
Partial or complete hair loss that may be genetic, hormonal, or medical in origin. It is a condition to refer rather than treat in the salon.
Contagious skin conditions
Conditions such as ringworm, impetigo, scabies, and lice are contagious. Do not perform services; refer the client to a physician and disinfect all contact items.
Alaska license renewal
Alaska cosmetology licenses renew on a biennial cycle through the Board of Barbers and Hairdressers, and licensees must complete the continuing education required for that cycle.