AR Cosmetology cheat sheet

pH scale runs 0–14; hair and skin are naturally acidic (hair ~4.5–5.5, skin ~4.5–6.0).

The hair shaft has three layers: cuticle (outer protective), cortex (middle, pigment and strength), medulla (innermost, may be absent).

Disulfide bonds are broken by chemical relaxers and perms; they reform in the new shape during processing.

The three stages of hair growth: anagen (active growth), catagen (transition), telogen (resting/shedding).

Skin is composed of three main layers: epidermis (outer), dermis (middle), subcutaneous (innermost).

The rule of nines estimates body surface area for burns; each arm is 9%, each leg 18%, trunk 36%, head 9%.

The three types of side bonds in hair: hydrogen (weak, broken by water), salt (weak, broken by pH change), disulfide (strong, broken by chemicals).

Cosmetology products are classified as alkaline (pH >7), acidic (pH <7), or neutral (pH =7); alkaline raises the cuticle, acidic lowers it.

Haircutting: the three basic lines are horizontal (weight), vertical (graduation), and diagonal (sloping).

The apex is the highest point of the head; the occipital bone is the bone at the base of the skull.

Chemical relaxers use an alkaline agent (e.g., sodium hydroxide or ammonium thioglycolate) to break disulfide bonds; neutralization rebuilds them.

Permanent wave processing time depends on hair porosity, elasticity, and the strength of the waving solution.

Hair coloring: the law of color states that blue, red, and yellow are primary; mixing two primaries creates a secondary.

Developer volume determines lift: 10 vol (3%) deposits, 20 vol (6%) lifts 1 level, 30 vol (9%) lifts 2–3 levels, 40 vol (12%) lifts 3–4 levels.

The patch test for aniline-derivative hair color is applied 24–48 hours before the service; a positive reaction (redness, swelling) contraindicates color.

Blow-drying uses tension and heat to smooth the cuticle; the nozzle should point down the hair shaft from roots to ends.

Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; analysis includes visual assessment, palpation, and client history.

Fitzpatrick skin types I–VI classify sun sensitivity and risk; type I always burns, type VI never burns.

The basic facial sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, massage, extract (if needed), mask, tone, moisturize, protect.

Massage movements include effleurage (light stroking), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), and friction (rubbing).

Contraindications for facial massage: open lesions, recent surgery, severe acne, sunburn, and certain skin diseases.

Comedogenic products can clog pores; noncomedogenic products are less likely to cause acne.

AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) exfoliants include glycolic and lactic acid; they reduce corneum cohesion and increase cell turnover.

Sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher is recommended for daily use; reapply every 2 hours during sun exposure.

Nail anatomy: nail plate (visible body), nail bed (skin beneath), matrix (growth area), cuticle (eponychium), lunula (white half-moon).

Nail growth averages about 1/8 inch (3 mm) per month; toenails grow slower than fingernails.

The three basic manicure shapes: square, round, and oval; square nails are filed straight across with rounded corners.

Pedicure implements must be disinfected after each client; porous items (emery boards, orange sticks) are single-use or discarded.

Acrylic nail application uses a liquid monomer and powder polymer; the ratio affects strength and curing time.

Gel nails are cured under UV or LED light; proper curing prevents lifting and service breakdown.

Nail diseases vs. disorders: onychomycosis (fungal infection) is a disease requiring medical referral; beau's lines are a disorder.

A paraffin bath is used for dry skin and joint stiffness; the wax should be tested on the wrist before application.

Arkansas requires cosmetologists to complete 1,500 hours of training and pass a state board examination for licensure.

Licenses must be renewed every two years; continuing education may be required for renewal.

Sanitation: clean with soap and water; disinfection uses EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectants; sterilization destroys all microorganisms.

Blood spills must be cleaned with an EPA-registered disinfectant and gloves must be worn; follow OSHA bloodborne pathogen standards.

Implements that contact skin or blood must be disinfected after each use; electrical tools must be disconnected before cleaning.

Arkansas law requires salons to display their license and to post a copy of the sanitation rules.

Client records must be kept confidential; sharing client information without consent is a violation.

The Arkansas State Board of Cosmetology enforces rules on sanitation, licensing, and professional conduct; violations can lead to fines or license suspension.