SHB Specialist Makeup Services cheat sheet

Open-ended questions (e.g., 'What look are you envisioning?') gather client goals; closed questions confirm details like event date and dress color.

Face shape classification: oval (balanced), round (width ≈ length), square (strong jaw), heart (wide forehead, narrow chin), diamond (narrow forehead and chin, wide cheekbones), oblong (length > width).

Color analysis: warm undertones (golden, peachy) suit yellow-based foundations; cool undertones (pink, blue) suit pink-based; neutral suits both.

Contraindications to note: active acne, open lesions, conjunctivitis, recent facial waxing/peels (within 24–48 h), allergies to cosmetics or adhesives.

Patch test: apply a small amount of product to inner forearm or behind ear; observe for 24–48 h before full application, especially for adhesives and pigments.

Design brief elements: occasion, lighting (natural vs. stage), photography (flash vs. no flash), duration of wear, outfit color, and client's skin type.

Skin type assessment: oily (shine within 1 h), dry (tightness, flaking), combination (oily T-zone, dry cheeks), sensitive (redness, stinging).

Record keeping: note products used, batch numbers, and any reactions; retain records per local regulations (often 3–7 years).

Cleanse according to skin type: gel/foam for oily, cream for dry, micellar for sensitive; avoid alcohol-heavy toners on dry skin.

Exfoliation: chemical (AHA/BHA) or physical; limit to 1–2 times weekly; avoid immediately before special-occasion makeup to prevent irritation.

Hydration: use humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) for dehydrated skin; emollients (oils, shea butter) for dry; lightweight lotions for oily.

Primer selection: silicone-based fills pores and smooths texture; water-based hydrates; mattifying primers control shine; color-correcting primers neutralize redness (green), sallowness (purple), dullness (peach).

Color wheel: complementary colors neutralize (green cancels red, orange cancels blue, purple cancels yellow); analogous colors blend harmoniously.

Foundation undertone matching: match to jawline/neck in natural light; test three shades (lighter, match, darker) and blend.

Setting: powder products set cream/liquid; use translucent powder for all skin tones; banana powder adds warmth but may oxidize on cool undertones.

Sunscreen: broad-spectrum SPF 30+ under makeup; physical (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) vs. chemical filters; reapply with powder or spray SPF.

Bridal timeline: trial 4–8 weeks before event; final skin prep 1–2 weeks prior; avoid new treatments (peels, waxing) within 1 week of event.

Long-wear strategy: layer cream and powder products; use setting spray; blotting papers for shine; avoid heavy oils that break down makeup.

Photography considerations: avoid SPF in foundation (flashback/white cast); use HD-friendly products; test with flash photography at trial.

Waterproof products for tears/emotions: waterproof mascara, eyeliner, and long-wear lip color; set with translucent powder.

Cultural and personal preferences: respect client's requests; offer options (e.g., red lip vs. nude); confirm with client before proceeding.

Emergency kit: blotting papers, cotton swabs, translucent powder, lipstick, lash glue, safety pins, tissues, and a small mirror.

Timing: allow 60–90 minutes for bridal makeup; 30–45 minutes for guest or simple occasion makeup; schedule buffer time.

Touch-up plan: provide client with a small kit (lip color, powder, blotting papers) and instructions for touch-ups during event.

Editorial makeup prioritizes concept and lighting: high-contrast, bold colors, and experimental textures for print; natural for beauty shots.

Photographic lighting: softbox (diffused, flattering), ring light (even, shadowless), hard light (defined shadows, texture emphasis); adjust makeup intensity accordingly.

Flash photography: avoid titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in foundation (flashback); use silica-based powders or HD formulas.

Color temperature: tungsten (warm) vs. daylight (cool); test makeup under intended lighting; adjust foundation warmth/coolness.

Fashion runway: long-wear, transfer-resistant products; consider quick changes; use cream products for blendability.

Editorial hygiene: use disposable applicators, spatula for creams, alcohol-wipe palettes between clients; never double-dip mascara.

Working with photographers: communicate about lighting, angles, and desired look; bring a touch-up kit to set.

Black-and-white photography: focus on contrast, texture, and sculpting; color may appear as different gray values; test with monochrome filter.

SFX products: alcohol-activated paints (durable, waterproof), cream/grease paints (blendable, need setting), silicone (prosthetic blending), and gelatin (wounds).

Bruise simulation: start with yellow/green base, layer purple/blue, add red at center; use stippling sponge for realism; set with powder.

Fake blood: corn syrup + red food coloring + cocoa powder (dark) or chocolate syrup; test on skin; avoid eyes and mouth; use edible-grade for mouth area.

Burn effects: use gelatin or silicone; layer red, then black (charred), then white (ash); add blister texture with stipple sponge.

Aging makeup: highlight and shadow to accentuate wrinkles; use stipple sponge for texture; avoid overdoing; test under lighting.

Character creation: research reference images; consider lighting and distance; exaggerate features for stage; use color theory for mood (red=anger, blue=cold).

Removal: use appropriate remover (alcohol for alcohol paints, oil for greasepaint); follow with gentle cleanser; moisturize.

Safety: avoid hazardous materials (e.g., lead, mercury); use skin-safe products; patch test; keep MSDS on hand.

Hand hygiene: wash hands before and after each client; use hand sanitizer; keep nails short and clean.

Tool sanitation: clean brushes with soap and water, then disinfect with EPA-registered solution (e.g., 70% isopropyl alcohol) or UV sterilizer; dry bristles downward.

Product hygiene: never double-dip creams; use spatula; wipe product surface with alcohol; sharpen pencils before each use; use disposable applicators.

Bloodborne pathogens: wear gloves when contact with blood/body fluids is possible; dispose of contaminated items in biohazard bag; report exposure.

Patch testing: required for adhesives, hair dyes, and some pigments; document results; avoid products with known allergens.

Contraindications: do not apply makeup over open lesions, rashes, or infections; refer to physician if uncertain.

Ethics: obtain informed consent; respect client confidentiality; do not make false claims about products; stay within scope of practice.

Regulations: follow local health department rules; maintain licenses; keep MSDS for all products; dispose of waste properly.

Brush types: foundation (flat or stippling), powder (large fluffy), blush (angled), eyeshadow (flat shader, blending), liner (angled or fine), lip (flat).

Sponge types: beautyblender (damp for sheer, dry for full), silicone (waste-free), disposable wedges (hygienic).

Foundation application: stipple for texture, buff for full coverage, stipple and roll for pores; use damp sponge for sheer, brush for medium-full.

Concealer: apply in thin layers; use corrector (peach for blue, green for red) under concealer; set with powder to prevent creasing.

Eyeshadow techniques: packing (flat brush), blending (fluffy brush), cut crease (flat brush + concealer), halo (blending brush).

Eyeliner: gel (creamy, long-wear), liquid (precise, dramatic), pencil (soft, smudgeable); tightline for natural look.

Mascara: wiggle at base, zigzag upward; avoid pumping wand (introduces air, dries product); replace every 3 months.

Lip products: lip liner (define, prevent bleeding), lipstick (cream, matte, satin), gloss (shine), stain (long-wear); exfoliate lips before application.