AZ Cosmetology cheat sheet

Pathogens include bacteria, viruses, fungi, and parasites; disinfectants are labeled for specific organism groups and contact times.

Standard precautions treat all blood, body fluids, secretions, and nonintact skin as potentially infectious for every client.

Sanitation reduces visible soil and some microbes; disinfection destroys most pathogens on nonporous surfaces; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant must be used on nonporous implements at the label dilution and full contact time.

Porous items such as towels, cotton, wooden sticks, and some nail files absorb liquids and cannot be reliably disinfected, so they are single-use.

Blood or body-fluid exposure stops the service; gloves are worn, contaminated items are removed, the area is disinfected, and exposure is reported according to workplace policy.

Safety Data Sheets provide hazard, first-aid, handling, and spill information for chemicals and must be accessible in the workplace.

Electrical safety includes GFCI protection, intact cords, dry hands, and keeping water away from outlets and plugged-in equipment.

The Arizona Board of Cosmetology regulates licensed cosmetologists, hairstylists, nail technicians, estheticians, instructors, and licensed establishments.

A current practitioner license and establishment license must be posted or readily available for inspection at the licensed location.

Performing cosmetology services for compensation without the required Arizona license is unlicensed practice and is prohibited.

Licensees may perform only services within the scope of the license category held; services outside that scope require the appropriate license.

Board rules require cleaned and disinfected implements, clean linens, proper disposal of single-use items, and safe chemical storage.

Ethical practice includes informed consent, fee disclosure, client confidentiality, nondiscrimination, and avoiding false or misleading advertising.

Board inspectors have authority to enter and inspect licensed establishments and records during business hours to verify compliance.

Hair has three main layers: cuticle, cortex, and medulla; the cortex provides strength, elasticity, and natural pigment.

Hair and skin have an acidic pH near 4.5 to 5.5; alkaline products swell and lift the cuticle, while acidic products smooth it.

Scalp types are normal, oily, dry, and combination; product selection is based on scalp condition as well as hair texture.

Shampoo is applied to a wet scalp, worked with fingertips rather than nails, and rinsed thoroughly before conditioner is applied.

Conditioners are mainly cationic and help smooth the cuticle, reduce static, and improve manageability after shampooing.

Tinea capitis and pediculosis are contagious scalp conditions; salon services are deferred and the client is referred for medical treatment.

Moderate water temperature cleans effectively; very hot water can strip oils and irritate the scalp.

Scalp massage is avoided over open lesions, recent surgery, inflammation, or unexplained hair loss.

Key reference points include the parietal ridge, occipital bone, apex, crown, and nape; they guide sectioning and balance.

Elevation is the angle at which hair is held from the head: 0 degrees produces a blunt line, 45 degrees graduation, and 90 degrees or higher layering.

A stationary guide is cut once and used as the fixed reference; a mobile guide moves with each section to create graduation or increased length.

Blunt cuts use zero elevation; graduated cuts build weight; layered cuts remove weight and create movement.

Cross-checking comb or cut hair opposite the original sectioning pattern to verify evenness and balance.

Wet cutting provides control and clean lines; dry cutting is useful for checking texture, shrinkage, and finishing details.

Razor cutting creates soft, textured ends and requires tension control; clippers are used for short precision work and edging.

Cowlicks and growth patterns are respected by working with the natural direction of hair rather than forcing it against the scalp.

Blow-dry airflow is directed from scalp to ends along the hair shaft to smooth the cuticle and reduce frizz.

Thermal tools are selected by hair texture and condition; fine or damaged hair uses lower temperatures and shorter contact time.

Heat protectant reduces moisture loss and cuticle damage before blow-drying, curling, or flat-ironing.

Curling iron barrel size controls curl diameter; smaller barrels produce tighter curls and larger barrels produce looser waves.

A curl is set by holding the hair on the tool until heat-formed, then allowing it to cool before brushing or separating.

Roller setting uses a base, stem, and curl; tension and base size determine volume, direction, and durability of the set.

Backcombing and teasing add temporary volume at the scalp but are avoided on fragile or damaged hair because they can cause breakage.

The color wheel arranges primary, secondary, and tertiary colors; opposite colors neutralize unwanted tones.

Hair color levels run from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); the natural level describes the starting pigment depth.

Hydrogen peroxide developer volumes commonly include 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume; higher volumes increase lift and can increase damage.

A patch test is performed 24 to 48 hours before aniline-derivative color to identify possible allergic reaction.

A strand test predicts processing time, color result, and how the hair reacts before the full service is performed.

Lightening exposes underlying pigment: red, red-orange, orange, yellow-orange, yellow, and pale yellow as melanin is removed.

Toner is applied after lightening to adjust or neutralize the exposed underlying pigment and achieve the target tone.

Virgin color application begins at midlengths and ends, with formula applied to the scalp area last to manage processing time.

Ammonium thioglycolate is the common reducing agent in alkaline permanents; it breaks disulfide bonds so hair can be reshaped.

The neutralizer contains an oxidizing agent that rebuilds disulfide bonds and locks the new curl or straight shape.

A test curl shows whether the desired curl pattern has formed before the perm is rinsed and neutralized.

Relaxers use sodium hydroxide or no-lye guanidine hydroxide; both are highly alkaline and require scalp protection and careful timing.

Base cream protects the scalp during relaxer processing, especially with sodium hydroxide formulas.

Relaxer retouch application is limited to new growth because overlapping previously relaxed hair causes overprocessing and breakage.

Processing time is determined by hair porosity, density, strength, and product strength, not by a single fixed time for all clients.

Thorough rinsing before neutralizing is required because residual reducing agent prevents the neutralizer from rebuilding bonds.

Nail structures include the matrix, nail plate, nail bed, lunula, cuticle, and free edge; the matrix produces the nail plate.

Onychomycosis is a contagious fungal nail infection and paronychia is infection around the nail; both require medical referral.

Nail filing is done in one direction with controlled strokes to shape the free edge and avoid splitting.

Metal implements such as nippers and pushers are cleaned, disinfected, and stored dry; porous items are discarded after use.

Pedicure soaking softens tissue and loosens debris; water and tubs must be cleaned and disinfected between clients.

Diabetes, circulatory disease, and open sores are pedicure contraindications that require medical clearance before service.

Acrylic and gel products require ventilation and label-compliant handling because monomers and dusts can irritate skin and airways.

Skin layers are the epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous layer; the epidermis is avascular and renews through cell turnover.

Skin types include normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; product selection matches the type and current condition.

Facial cleansing removes surface soil and oil; exfoliation removes dead surface cells, and extractions are limited to suitable lesions.

Facial massage movements follow a consistent direction and pressure; massage is avoided over active infection, inflammation, or recent surgery.

Clay masks are used for oily skin, hydrating masks for dry skin, and soothing masks for sensitive or irritated skin.

Foundation is matched to the jawline and blended outward; brushes and sponges are cleaned or replaced between clients.

Wax is tested for temperature before application, and a patch test is used before first-time waxing to check for allergy.

Waxing is avoided on skin treated with isotretinoin, recent exfoliation, sunburn, or active dermatitis because skin may tear.