Planting, Transplanting, and Establishment
Getting the plant in the ground
The most consequential detail is depth: the root flare sits at or slightly above grade, never below. Dig the hole two to three times the root ball width but no deeper than the root ball. Remove twine, burlap, and cages from at least the top third; cut circling roots. Research generally does not support heavy backfill amendment - use the native soil, or amend the whole planting area rather than the hole alone.
After planting
Water thoroughly to settle soil and remove air pockets, then mulch 2–4 inches deep, keeping it off the trunk (no volcanoes). Stake only when the site demands it, using flexible ties, and remove them within one growing season so the trunk can develop taper.
Rules of thumb
Supply about 1 inch of water per week to the root zone during establishment, delivered in deep soakings. A reasonable establishment window is one year per inch of trunk caliper, longer for large B&B stock. Water the root ball itself - it dries faster than surrounding soil, especially in sandy sites.
Traps
Planting too deep; over-amending a small hole (creating a "pot in the ground"); rigid staking left on for years; fertilizing at planting, which pushes top growth before roots establish. Expect questions on transplant shock, dormancy timing, bare-root handling, and nursery grades.