CT Cosmetology cheat sheet

Hair shaft layers: cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk, melanin, disulfide bonds), medulla (central core, may be absent in fine hair).

pH scale 0-14; hair and scalp are acidic near pH 4.5-5.5, so alkaline products swell the cuticle and acidic rinses contract it.

Disulfide, salt (ionic), hydrogen, and peptide (sugar) bonds determine curl pattern; wet setting breaks hydrogen bonds, perming breaks disulfide bonds.

Human hair is roughly 90% keratin protein plus water, trace minerals, lipids, and melanin; tensile strength comes mainly from the cortex.

Porosity: low porosity resists moisture and needs heat and low-molecular-weight products; high porosity absorbs fast and loses moisture fast.

Elasticity test: a wet strand stretched to about 50% and released should return to length; failure indicates damage and limits chemical service.

Melanin types: eumelanin gives brown-black color, pheomelanin gives red-blonde; gray hair has reduced melanin and a denser cuticle.

Sebaceous glands attach to follicles and secrete sebum; arrector pili muscle contracts in cold or emotion to cause goose bumps.

Growth cycle: anagen (growth, years), catagen (transition, weeks), telogen (rest, months); normal shedding is about 50-100 hairs daily.

Classic perm wrapping: 9 sections and 2-inch subsections; base control is the size of the tool's base relative to its diameter (on-base, half off-base, off-base).

Perm processing: relax the hair with thio or alkaline (no-lye) waving lotion, rinse, then neutralize with hydrogen peroxide-based neutralizer to rebuild disulfide bonds.

Ammonium thioglycolate works at pH about 9-9.6; glyceryl monothioglycolate (acid perm) works at pH about 6.5-7 and needs heat.

Relaxer strength: ammonium thioglycolate for fine, color-treated, or mild texture; sodium hydroxide for resistant texture; no-lye relaxers use guanidine or lithium hydroxide.

Base relaxer is applied to new growth first; lanthionization leaves hair straighter but weaker, so a neutralizing shampoo and conditioner follow.

Oxidative color: ammonia or MEA opens the cuticle, peroxide developer lifts melanin and develops dye; volume strength maps roughly 10 vol = 3%, 20 vol = 6%, 30 vol = 9%, 40 vol = 12%.

Color levels 1-10 run black to lightest blonde; tone describes warm, neutral, or cool, and undertone correction uses the color wheel complement.

Haircutting: blunt or one-length, graduated, and layered; elevation (0-90 degrees plus) and distribution control length and weight lines.

Thermal styling: curling iron temperature is lower for fine or damaged hair and higher for resistant hair; always use a heat protectant and test a strand.

Nail anatomy: nail plate, nail bed, matrix (growth area), lunula, cuticle, eponychium, hyponychium, and free edge; the matrix determines plate thickness and shape.

Contraindications to nail services include inflamed, swollen, or infected tissue, open lesions, and undiagnosed discoloration; refer to a physician.

Do not cut live tissue: cuticle (eponychium) is pushed back, not trimmed; nippers are used only on dead hangnails and callus.

Methyl methacrylate (MMA) liquid is prohibited in many states for artificial nails; ethyl methacrylate (EMA) is the accepted monomer.

Disinfection of implements: clean with soap and water, then immerse in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the label contact time; porous items are single-use.

Skin analysis: normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; Fitzpatrick scale I-VI estimates sun sensitivity and cancer risk.

Facial steps: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract (with caution), massage, mask, moisturize, and apply sunscreen; massage movements include effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, and friction.

Waxing: apply wax in the direction of hair growth and remove against it; patch test 24-48 hours before, and never wax over isotretinoin-treated, irritated, or sunburned skin.

Massage contraindications include fever, contagious skin disease, recent surgery, thrombosis, and uncontrolled hypertension.

Infection control hierarchy: cleaning removes debris, disinfection kills most pathogens on nonporous surfaces, sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with tuberculocidal claim is the standard for implements that contact skin; follow the label dilution and contact time.

Blood and body fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb, clean, disinfect, and discard in a sealed bag; report exposure and follow the salon's exposure control plan.

OSHA Hazard Communication requires a Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for every chemical product and labeling of all secondary containers.

Material Safety Data Sheets were replaced by SDS under the Globally Harmonized System; SDS has 16 sections.

Universal precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; handwashing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is the first defense.

Electrical safety: use GFCI outlets near water, do not use damaged cords, and keep cords off wet floors; report shocks immediately.

Business math: gross profit = revenue minus cost of goods sold; markup is added to cost; retail price = cost / (1 - desired margin).

Client records should document services, products, patch tests, and consent, and be retained per state and insurer requirements.

Connecticut cosmetology licensure is administered by the Department of Public Health (DPH); licenses must be posted and renewed on the DPH schedule.

Connecticut requires a high school diploma or equivalent and completion of an approved cosmetology program (commonly 1,500 hours) before the licensing exam; verify current hour requirements with DPH.

Connecticut mandates infection control training and continuing education for license renewal; confirm the current hour count and topic list with DPH.

A licensed cosmetologist may perform hair, nail, and skin care services within scope; services outside scope, such as medical diagnosis, are prohibited.

Salons must hold a salon license and display it; booth renters and independent contractors must hold individual licenses.

Scope of practice excludes diagnosing or treating disease; suspicious lesions, infections, or disorders must be referred to a physician.

Ethics: protect client confidentiality, obtain informed consent, disclose product risks, avoid dual relationships, and never guarantee medical outcomes.

Advertising and pricing must be accurate; no false claims of certification, and no discrimination in service or pricing.

Connecticut consumer protection and DPH complaint processes allow clients to file complaints; licensees must cooperate with inspections and investigations.

Hair shaft layers: cuticle (outer protective scales), cortex (bulk, melanin, disulfide bonds), medulla (central core, may be absent in fine hair).

pH scale 0-14; hair and scalp are acidic near pH 4.5-5.5, so alkaline products swell the cuticle and acidic rinses contract it.

Disulfide, salt (ionic), hydrogen, and peptide (sugar) bonds determine curl pattern; wet setting breaks hydrogen bonds, perming breaks disulfide bonds.

Human hair is roughly 90% keratin protein plus water, trace minerals, lipids, and melanin; tensile strength comes mainly from the cortex.

Porosity: low porosity resists moisture and needs heat and low-molecular-weight products; high porosity absorbs fast and loses moisture fast.

Elasticity test: a wet strand stretched to about 50% and released should return to length; failure indicates damage and limits chemical service.

Melanin types: eumelanin gives brown-black color, pheomelanin gives red-blonde; gray hair has reduced melanin and a denser cuticle.

Sebaceous glands attach to follicles and secrete sebum; arrector pili muscle contracts in cold or emotion to cause goose bumps.

Growth cycle: anagen (growth, years), catagen (transition, weeks), telogen (rest, months); normal shedding is about 50-100 hairs daily.

Classic perm wrapping: 9 sections and 2-inch subsections; base control is the size of the tool's base relative to its diameter (on-base, half off-base, off-base).

Perm processing: relax the hair with thio or alkaline (no-lye) waving lotion, rinse, then neutralize with hydrogen peroxide-based neutralizer to rebuild disulfide bonds.

Ammonium thioglycolate works at pH about 9-9.6; glyceryl monothioglycolate (acid perm) works at pH about 6.5-7 and needs heat.

Relaxer strength: ammonium thioglycolate for fine, color-treated, or mild texture; sodium hydroxide for resistant texture; no-lye relaxers use guanidine or lithium hydroxide.

Base relaxer is applied to new growth first; lanthionization leaves hair straighter but weaker, so a neutralizing shampoo and conditioner follow.

Oxidative color: ammonia or MEA opens the cuticle, peroxide developer lifts melanin and develops dye; volume strength maps roughly 10 vol = 3%, 20 vol = 6%, 30 vol = 9%, 40 vol = 12%.

Color levels 1-10 run black to lightest blonde; tone describes warm, neutral, or cool, and undertone correction uses the color wheel complement.

Haircutting: blunt or one-length, graduated, and layered; elevation (0-90 degrees plus) and distribution control length and weight lines.

Thermal styling: curling iron temperature is lower for fine or damaged hair and higher for resistant hair; always use a heat protectant and test a strand.

Nail anatomy: nail plate, nail bed, matrix (growth area), lunula, cuticle, eponychium, hyponychium, and free edge; the matrix determines plate thickness and shape.

Contraindications to nail services include inflamed, swollen, or infected tissue, open lesions, and undiagnosed discoloration; refer to a physician.

Do not cut live tissue: cuticle (eponychium) is pushed back, not trimmed; nippers are used only on dead hangnails and callus.

Methyl methacrylate (MMA) liquid is prohibited in many states for artificial nails; ethyl methacrylate (EMA) is the accepted monomer.

Disinfection of implements: clean with soap and water, then immerse in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for the label contact time; porous items are single-use.

Skin analysis: normal, dry, oily, combination, and sensitive; Fitzpatrick scale I-VI estimates sun sensitivity and cancer risk.

Facial steps: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract (with caution), massage, mask, moisturize, and apply sunscreen; massage movements include effleurage, petrissage, tapotement, and friction.

Waxing: apply wax in the direction of hair growth and remove against it; patch test 24-48 hours before, and never wax over isotretinoin-treated, irritated, or sunburned skin.

Massage contraindications include fever, contagious skin disease, recent surgery, thrombosis, and uncontrolled hypertension.

Infection control hierarchy: cleaning removes debris, disinfection kills most pathogens on nonporous surfaces, sterilization destroys all microorganisms including spores.

EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant with tuberculocidal claim is the standard for implements that contact skin; follow the label dilution and contact time.

Blood and body fluid spills: wear gloves, absorb, clean, disinfect, and discard in a sealed bag; report exposure and follow the salon's exposure control plan.

OSHA Hazard Communication requires a Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for every chemical product and labeling of all secondary containers.

Material Safety Data Sheets were replaced by SDS under the Globally Harmonized System; SDS has 16 sections.

Universal precautions treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; handwashing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is the first defense.

Electrical safety: use GFCI outlets near water, do not use damaged cords, and keep cords off wet floors; report shocks immediately.

Business math: gross profit = revenue minus cost of goods sold; markup is added to cost; retail price = cost / (1 - desired margin).

Client records should document services, products, patch tests, and consent, and be retained per state and insurer requirements.

Connecticut cosmetology licensure is administered by the Department of Public Health (DPH); licenses must be posted and renewed on the DPH schedule.

Connecticut requires a high school diploma or equivalent and completion of an approved cosmetology program (commonly 1,500 hours) before the licensing exam; verify current hour requirements with DPH.

Connecticut mandates infection control training and continuing education for license renewal; confirm the current hour count and topic list with DPH.

A licensed cosmetologist may perform hair, nail, and skin care services within scope; services outside scope, such as medical diagnosis, are prohibited.

Salons must hold a salon license and display it; booth renters and independent contractors must hold individual licenses.

Scope of practice excludes diagnosing or treating disease; suspicious lesions, infections, or disorders must be referred to a physician.

Ethics: protect client confidentiality, obtain informed consent, disclose product risks, avoid dual relationships, and never guarantee medical outcomes.

Advertising and pricing must be accurate; no false claims of certification, and no discrimination in service or pricing.

Connecticut consumer protection and DPH complaint processes allow clients to file complaints; licensees must cooperate with inspections and investigations.