Pancyprian TS Facial Aesthetics cheat sheet

The facial skeleton comprises 14 bones; the mandible is the only mobile bone, moving at the temporomandibular joint.

Muscles of facial expression are innervated by the facial nerve (CN VII); muscles of mastication by the mandibular division of the trigeminal nerve (CN V3).

The skin has three layers: epidermis (avascular, keratinised), dermis (collagen, elastin, vessels, glands) and hypodermis (subcutaneous fat).

The epidermis renews roughly every 28 days in young adults; this turnover lengthens with age and photoexposure.

The dermis contains type I and type III collagen; type III dominates in young skin and is progressively replaced by type I with age.

Sebaceous glands are concentrated on the T-zone, forehead, nose and chin and are androgen-sensitive; density is lowest on the cheeks and neck.

The face's arterial supply derives mainly from the external carotid (facial artery) with orbital and forehead contributions from the internal carotid (ophthalmic branches).

Lymph from the face drains to submental, submandibular, parotid and cervical nodes; direction of massage should follow these pathways toward the neck.

Melanocytes reside in the basal layer; melanin production is stimulated by UV, inflammation and hormones, driving post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation risk.

Fitzpatrick phototypes I–VI classify sun-reactive skin: I always burns, never tans; VI never burns, deeply pigmented.

The Baumann skin typing model uses four parameters: oily vs dry, sensitive vs resistant, pigmented vs non-pigmented, wrinkled vs tight.

Lesion terminology: macule (flat, colour change), papule (raised <1 cm), nodule (raised >1 cm), vesicle (fluid-filled), pustule (pus-filled).

The ABCDE rule for pigmented lesions: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Colour variation, Diameter >6 mm, Evolving change.

Contraindication screen: active infection, open wounds, recent isotretinoin (typically within 6 months), pregnancy (for certain actives), uncontrolled diabetes.

Patch testing a new product on the inner forearm or behind the ear for 24–48 hours before full-face application is standard practice.

Assess skin type on clean, product-free skin after 30 minutes of rest, noting sebum distribution, pore size, texture and hydration.

Document baseline findings with photographs under consistent lighting and consent; this supports progress comparison and legal records.

Referral triggers include changing moles, persistent erythema, unexplained bleeding, and lesions failing to heal within 2–3 weeks.

Cleansing removes surface sebum and debris; double cleansing uses an oil-based step followed by a water-based cleanser.

Exfoliation types: mechanical (scrubs, brushes), enzymatic (papain, bromelain) and chemical (AHAs, BHAs, retinoids).

AHA peels act on the stratum corneum; glycolic acid (smallest AHA) penetrates deepest, lactic acid is gentler and more hydrating.

BHA (salicylic acid) is lipid-soluble and penetrates pores, making it useful for comedonal and oily skin.

Extraction should follow softening of the skin with warm compress or steam; pressure is applied around the follicle, not directly on inflamed lesions.

Massage movements follow lymphatic drainage toward cervical nodes; effleurage, petrissage and tapotement are the classic manual techniques.

Mask selection is matched to skin goal: clay for oil control, hydrating sheet masks for barrier repair, and gel masks for calming.

Electrical modalities include galvanic (product penetration, disincrustation), high frequency (antibacterial), microcurrent and LED phototherapy.

Post-treatment sunscreen with broad-spectrum SPF 30+ is mandatory after exfoliation or peels because barrier function and photosensitivity are altered.

Standard precautions treat all blood and body fluids as potentially infectious regardless of perceived risk.

Hand hygiene: wash with soap and water for at least 20 seconds or use alcohol-based sanitiser (60–90% alcohol) when hands are not visibly soiled.

Single-use items (cotton pads, spatulas, gloves, needles) must not be reused between clients; multi-use tools require disinfection between clients.

Disinfection vs sterilisation: disinfection reduces pathogens on surfaces; sterilisation destroys all microorganisms including spores.

Contraindications to treatment: fever, active herpes simplex, conjunctivitis, open lesions, recent chemical peel or laser, and known product allergy.

Sharps and contaminated waste go into designated biohazard containers; never place in general waste.

A Material Safety Data Sheet or Safety Data Sheet must be available for every chemical used in the salon.

Patch test records, consent forms and incident logs should be retained as required by local regulation and typically for several years.

Electrical equipment must be inspected and PAT-tested per local requirements; damaged leads or cracked casings mean withdrawal from use.

Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea) attract water; emollients (squalane, fatty alcohols) soften and smooth; occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) reduce transepidermal water loss.

Niacinamide supports barrier function and sebum regulation; typical cosmetic concentrations are 2–5%.

Retinoids accelerate cell turnover; they cause photosensitivity and are contraindicated in pregnancy for systemic or high-strength topical use.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a water-soluble antioxidant; it is unstable in light and air and is often formulated at pH below 3.5.

Hyaluronic acid holds many times its weight in water; molecular weight affects penetration depth (low molecular weight penetrates more).

Peptide categories: carrier peptides, signal peptides and neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides; each acts via a different mechanism.

Preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and parabens prevent microbial growth; water-containing products require a preservative system.

Fragrance and essential oils are common sensitisers; 'fragrance-free' differs from 'unscented', which may contain masking fragrance.

Ingredient lists are ordered by concentration, with ingredients at 1% or less allowed in any order after the 1% threshold.

Scope of practice defines what a facial aesthetician may legally perform; acting outside it is a regulatory and liability issue.

Informed consent requires disclosure of risks, benefits, alternatives and the right to withdraw, documented in writing.

Client confidentiality is a legal duty; records may only be shared with explicit consent or where required by law.

Data protection law (e.g. GDPR where applicable) governs storage, retention and processing of client personal and health data.

Advertising must be truthful and not make unsubstantiated medical or curative claims for cosmetic treatments.

Insurance: professional indemnity cover is typically required to practise; check that the policy covers each treatment offered.

Record keeping: contemporaneous notes of treatment, products used, batch numbers and adverse events support defence if a complaint arises.

Financial conflicts of interest (commission on product sales) must be disclosed so client advice remains independent and honest.

Minors and vulnerable adults require additional safeguards, including parental or guardian consent where legally required.

The consultation follows a structured sequence: greeting, history, skin analysis, explanation, consent, treatment, aftercare.

Open questions ('What concerns you most about your skin?') elicit more information than closed yes/no questions.

Active listening techniques: paraphrasing, summarising, reflecting feelings and clarifying ambiguous statements.

Explain expected outcomes in realistic terms; avoid promising permanent results for treatments with temporary effects.

Aftercare instructions should be written and verbal, covering cleansing, sun protection, avoiding heat and exercise, and when to seek help.

Common post-treatment reactions: transient erythema, mild swelling, dryness and flaking; these typically resolve in 24–72 hours depending on intensity.

Red-flag symptoms requiring urgent referral: blistering, spreading rash, severe pain, fever, or signs of infection such as pus.

Follow-up timing should be agreed in advance; a check-in within 24–72 hours after more intensive treatments is common practice.

Document that aftercare was given and understood; ask the client to repeat key points to confirm comprehension.

Treatment pricing must cover direct costs (product, consumables), indirect costs (rent, utilities, insurance) and a margin for profit.

Break-even calculation: fixed costs divided by (price per treatment minus variable cost per treatment) gives the number of treatments needed.

Retail margin is calculated as (retail price minus cost) divided by retail price, expressed as a percentage.

Client retention is driven by rebooking at the point of service; measure rebooking rate as rebooked appointments divided by completed appointments.

Stock control uses par levels and rotation (first in, first out) to avoid expired product and stockouts.

Appointment scheduling should allow sufficient turnaround for cleaning, disinfection and record-keeping between clients.

Key performance indicators include average client spend, utilisation rate, new client conversion and no-show rate.

Employment and contractor status carry different tax, insurance and liability implications; clarify status in writing.

Marketing claims must align with legal advertising rules and with the actual qualifications of the practitioner.

Chemical peel depth is classified as superficial (stratum corneum to papillary dermis), medium (papillary to upper reticular dermis) and deep (mid-reticular dermis).

Frosting during a TCA peel indicates protein coagulation; the level of frost guides endpoint and neutralisation decisions.

Microneedling creates controlled micro-injuries that stimulate collagen; needle depth is selected by treatment area and concern.

Contraindications for microneedling include active acne, isotretinoin use, bleeding disorders, keloid tendency and pregnancy (per protocol).

LED phototherapy: blue light (~415 nm) targets acne bacteria; red light (~630 nm) supports collagen and healing; near-infrared penetrates deeper.

Radiofrequency and ultrasound devices deliver heat to the dermis to stimulate collagen contraction and neocollagenesis.

Combination protocols should be sequenced by tissue recovery: resurfacing first, then hydration and barrier support in subsequent sessions.

Post-procedure wound care for ablative or deeper treatments includes gentle cleansing, barrier ointment and strict photoprotection.

Adverse event management: stop the procedure, remove product, cool the area, document, and refer for medical assessment when needed.