IA Barber cheat sheet

Disinfection destroys most pathogenic organisms on nonporous implements but does not kill bacterial spores; sterilization is the only process that destroys all microbial life including spores.

Federal OSHA bloodborne pathogen rules require gloves for any service where blood or body fluids may be present, and contaminated sharps go in a labeled, closable sharps container.

An EPA-registered hospital disinfectant labeled tuberculocidal is required for implements that contacted blood or body fluids; quats (quaternary ammonium) are typical for general wet disinfection.

Implements must be cleaned of debris before immersion in disinfectant; organic matter inactivates most disinfectants. Follow the label contact time, typically 10 minutes.

Porous items that cannot be disinfected (paper files, nail buffers, cotton) are single-use and discarded; electrical tools are disinfected only at the non-porous surfaces per manufacturer instructions.

Hand washing with soap and warm running water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client; alcohol-based sanitizer is a supplement, not a substitute when hands are soiled.

Wet sanitizers and disinfectants are kept in labeled, closed containers; mixing bleach and ammonia or acids releases toxic gas.

A blood exposure incident requires washing the area, reporting to the supervisor, and following the exposure control plan; confidentiality of the exposed worker's medical record is maintained.

Scalp skin pH is about 4.5-5.5; alkaline shampoos swell the cuticle and increase friction, while acidic rinses close the cuticle and add shine.

Surfactant molecules have a hydrophilic head and lipophilic tail; the tail binds sebum and soil, and the head keeps the micelle suspended in water for rinsing.

Shampoo selection rule: oily hair and scalp use higher-detergent, lower-conditioner formulas; dry or chemically damaged hair uses lower-detergent, moisturizing formulas.

Water hardness is measured in grains per gallon; hard water minerals (calcium, magnesium) form dulling film and reduce lather, so chelating or demineralizing shampoos are indicated.

Scalp massage during shampooing uses firm, slow, rotary movements with fingertips, never fingernails, and is contraindicated over inflamed, broken, or infected scalp.

A conditioner's main actions are acidifying the surface, smoothing the cuticle, and reducing static and combing friction; it is applied mid-shaft to ends, not the scalp.

Contraindications to scalp massage and many treatments include contagious scalp conditions, recent chemical burns, open lesions, and uncontrolled hypertension.

Dandruff (pityriasis) treatment shampoos use active agents such as zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, or ketoconazole; a persistent, inflamed, or bleeding scalp is referred to a physician.

The four basic haircut forms are solid (one length), graduated (stacked), layered (increased length), and uniform/combination; each is defined by the relationship of lengths between sections.

A blunt or zero-elevation cut builds weight at the perimeter; elevation of 90 degrees or more removes weight and creates layers.

Cross-checking means re-cutting a section from the opposite direction to verify balance and evenness; it is the standard quality check on every cut.

Clipper guards are numbered by the length of hair left, not removed; a #1 guard leaves about 1/8 inch (3 mm), and each number typically adds 1/8 inch.

Clipper blades must be aligned and oiled; cutting against the grain removes more length, and clipper-over-comb uses the comb as a guide while the blade rides the comb's teeth.

Tapering blends short to long by using progressively longer guards or comb positions; the nape and sides are cut shorter than the top to create the fade gradient.

Sectioning for control uses a center part and horizontal partings; hair is cut in the direction of its growth pattern, and cowlicks or growth patterns are left longer rather than forced.

Texturizing tools (thinning shears, razors) remove bulk but can create holes; they are used sparingly on fine hair and never on the perimeter of a solid form.

Shaving lather softens the hair and holds moisture; beard hair absorbs water and swells, so lather is worked in for at least 30 seconds before the first stroke.

Shaving strokes follow the direction of hair growth (with the grain) for the closest safe result; against-the-grain strokes increase irritation and ingrown hair risk.

The free-hand stroke uses the razor held at about a 30-degree angle with the skin pulled taut; the back-hand stroke is the reverse direction used on the neck and jaw.

A shaving service is contraindicated over moles, warts, inflamed or broken skin, and recent chemical services; a nick requires styptic and a fresh blade before continuing.

Beard design starts by establishing the natural jaw line and cheek line, then removing hair outside those lines; the neckline sits just above the Adam's apple.

Beard shapes are chosen from face shape: fuller beards add length to round faces, and shorter, squared beards balance long faces.

Hot towels before shaving relax the follicle and soften hair; a cool towel after shaving closes pores and reduces redness.

Razor blades are single-use for professional shaving and disposed of in a sharps container; the razor handle is disinfected between clients.

Permanent waving breaks disulfide bonds with a reducing agent (ammonium thioglycolate) and re-forms them in the new shape with an oxidizing neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate).

The relaxer process uses a strong alkaline agent (sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, or guanidine) or ammonium thioglycolate in a no-lye system to break disulfide bonds; the hair is then smoothed and neutralized.

Processing time and strength depend on hair porosity, elasticity, and diameter; a patch test and strand test are performed before the service.

A relaxer retouch applies product only to new growth, never over previously relaxed hair, to avoid overlapping and breakage.

Base and no-base relaxers differ in whether protective base cream is applied to the scalp; base is mandatory for sensitive scalps and for sodium hydroxide relaxers.

Thioglycolate relaxers require an oxidative neutralizer and cannot be followed by a hydroxide relaxer on the same day; hydroxide relaxers are not compatible with thio neutralizers.

The neutralizer must be thoroughly applied and left for the full label time; incomplete neutralization leaves the hair weak and prone to breakage.

Contraindications include a prior metallic or henna dye, a positive patch test, scalp abrasions, and pregnancy-related physician advice; record all results in the client record.

The hair color wheel: primary colors are red, yellow, and blue; secondary colors are orange (red+yellow), green (yellow+blue), and violet (red+blue); complementary colors neutralize each other.

Natural level is the lightness or darkness of the hair, rated 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde); tone is the warm, neutral, or cool quality within a level.

Permanent color uses an aniline derivative dye and developer to lift the cuticle and deposit color inside the cortex; demi-permanent deposits without lifting and fades over 6-24 shampoos.

Developer volume determines lift: 10 volume deposits, 20 volume lifts 1-2 levels, 30 volume lifts 2-3 levels, and 40 volume lifts 3-4 levels; higher volume means more damage.

Lightening (bleach) removes pigment; the amount of lift is limited by the hair's natural level, and the result must be toned to correct remaining warmth.

A patch test is required 24-48 hours before an aniline derivative color service; a strand test determines processing time and expected result.

Contraindications to color and lightener include a positive patch test, metallic salt or henna history, compromised scalp, and hair with less than 50 percent elasticity.

Color formulation rule: identify the natural level, target level, and underlying pigment, then select the color and developer that bridge the gap; the law of color predicts the result.

The hair shaft has three layers: cuticle (outer, overlapping scales), cortex (middle, contains melanin and the disulfide bonds), and medulla (innermost, may be absent in fine hair).

The hair follicle is a tube in the dermis; the bulb at its base contains the matrix where cells divide, and the papilla supplies blood and nutrients.

The sebaceous gland attaches to the follicle and secretes sebum; the arrector pili muscle contracts to raise the hair (goose bumps).

The three growth phases are anagen (active growth, years), catagen (transition, weeks), and telogen (resting, months); shedding follows telogen.

The skin has three layers: epidermis (outer, avascular), dermis (contains follicles, glands, vessels, nerves), and subcutaneous (fat and insulation).

The nail is composed of the nail plate, nail bed, matrix, cuticle, and lunula; the matrix produces the nail plate.

Bones of the head and face include frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital, zygomatic, maxilla, and mandible; facial muscles include frontalis, orbicularis oculi, and masseter.

The integumentary system includes skin, hair, and nails; its functions include protection, temperature regulation, sensation, and vitamin D synthesis.

State barber licensing boards set scope of practice, sanitation rules, continuing education hours, and license renewal periods; the specific number of hours varies by state and must be verified.

Client records must document services, products, patch and strand test results, and any adverse reactions; records are retained per state rule and kept confidential.

Informed consent and a client consultation precede chemical or shaving services; the consultation identifies allergies, medications, and prior chemical history.

A sole proprietor reports business income on Schedule C; an LLC or corporation provides liability separation, and booth renters are typically independent contractors responsible for their own taxes.

Retail and service pricing must cover product cost, overhead, and time; a common formula is (product cost + overhead) divided by (1 - desired profit margin).

The Fair Labor Standards Act governs minimum wage and overtime for employees; independent contractors set their own hours and pay self-employment tax.

Advertising must be truthful and must not claim medical treatment or guaranteed results; before-and-after images require client permission.

A safety data sheet (SDS) must be available for every chemical product in the salon, and chemicals are stored per label directions away from heat and sunlight.

Sanitation reduces the number of pathogens on surfaces; disinfection destroys most pathogens on implements; sterilization destroys all microbial life including spores.

Classification rule: implements that contact blood or body fluids are disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital disinfectant labeled tuberculocidal; nonporous general items use a hospital disinfectant.

Tools must be cleaned and dried before disinfection; disinfectant contact time is set by the manufacturer label, and the solution is changed per label or when visibly soiled.

Single-use items include razor blades, cotton, paper towels, and wooden sticks; they are discarded in a covered waste container, and blades go in a sharps container.

Hand washing is the most important infection control measure; hands are washed before and after each client and after removing gloves.

Blood and body fluid spills are cleaned with gloves, absorbent material, and an EPA-registered disinfectant; the area is disinfected after visible material is removed.

Electrical safety includes inspecting cords for damage, keeping water away from outlets, and using ground-fault circuit interrupter protection where required.

Chemical safety includes adequate ventilation, gloves and eye protection, and never mixing products unless the manufacturer directs it.

Shampoo's main ingredients are water, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives, and conditioning agents; the surfactant is the cleansing agent.

The pH scale runs 0-14; 7 is neutral, below 7 is acidic, above 7 is alkaline. Hair and scalp prefer mildly acidic products.

Shampooing procedure: wet hair, apply diluted shampoo, massage the scalp with fingertips, rinse thoroughly, and repeat only if needed.

Conditioners are classified as instant (rinse-out), treatment (deeper, longer contact), and leave-in; the heavier the product, the more it weighs down fine hair.

Scalp treatments include moisturizing, exfoliating, and medicated; medicated products are used only for their labeled purpose and referred to a physician if the condition persists.

Hair porosity affects product absorption: high porosity absorbs and releases moisture quickly, low porosity resists moisture and product penetration.

Elasticity is tested by stretching a wet strand; normal hair stretches and returns, and low elasticity indicates damage and contraindicates chemical services.

Water temperature for shampooing is warm, not hot; hot water strips sebum and increases scalp dryness.

Haircutting tools include shears, clippers, trimmers, razors, and combs; shears cut on the inside edge and are held with the thumb and ring finger in the finger rest.

The guide is the first section cut; all other sections are cut to match it, and the guide may be a stationary guide or a traveling guide.

Elevation is the angle at which the hair is held from the head; 0 degrees is blunt, 45 degrees is graduated, and 90 degrees is layered.

Distribution is the direction the hair is combed relative to the parting; natural distribution follows the growth pattern, and shifted distribution is combed away from it.

Clipper cutting positions include flat-top, clipper-over-comb, and freehand; clipper-over-comb is used to blend and taper.

A fade is a taper that goes to the skin at the bottom; a shadow fade leaves a very short shadow of hair rather than going completely to the skin.

Wet cutting gives more control and precision; dry cutting shows the natural fall and is used for texturizing and finishing.

Cross-checking and mirror-checking the finished cut are required before the client leaves the chair.

Shaving preparations include lather, shaving cream, gel, and oil; their purpose is to soften hair, lubricate skin, and reduce friction.

Razor types include straight razor, safety razor, and electric razor; a straight razor requires stropping and honing to maintain the edge.

Shaving strokes include the free-hand stroke, back-hand stroke, and the reverse free-hand stroke; each follows a specific facial region.

The beard area is divided into the mustache, chin, jaw line, cheek line, and neckline; design removes hair outside the desired lines.

A beard trimmer with guard lengths sets the overall length; scissors over comb refine the shape and blend the edges.

Mustache design follows the lip line and the natural growth pattern; the center is trimmed symmetrically and the ends are shaped to the face.

After-shave products soothe and disinfect; alcohol-based products may sting and dry the skin, so sensitive skin benefits from alcohol-free formulas.

Facial services require a consultation for allergies, skin conditions, and medications that thin the skin or increase bleeding.

The perm process: pre-section and wrap hair on rods, apply waving lotion, process, rinse, apply neutralizer, remove rods, and rinse.

Rod size and wrapping tension determine curl size and pattern; smaller rods and more tension create tighter curls.

Wrapping methods include bookend (double flat), croquignole (spiral from ends to scalp), and spiral (around the length of the hair).

The processing time is determined by a test curl; the hair is checked every few minutes until the desired curl is achieved.

A relaxer service includes a patch test, strand test, base application when required, product application to new growth, smoothing, rinsing, and neutralizing.

Relaxer strength is selected by hair texture and condition; fine or damaged hair uses milder strength and shorter processing.

Neutralizing shampoo lowers the pH and re-forms disulfide bonds; the hair is then conditioned and styled.

Chemical services are contraindicated on hair with a positive strand test, metallic dye history, or scalp abrasions.

Haircolor products are classified as temporary (surface coating), semi-permanent (direct dye, no lift), demi-permanent (deposit only, low-level lift), and permanent (lift and deposit).

The developer (hydrogen peroxide) opens the cuticle and oxidizes the dye; the mixing ratio is set by the manufacturer, commonly 1:1 or 1:2.

Underlying pigment is the warmth exposed when hair is lightened; it follows the natural level, from red at dark levels to pale yellow at the lightest.

Toning neutralizes unwanted warmth after lightening; a violet toner cancels yellow, and a blue toner cancels orange.

Highlighting methods include foil, cap, balayage, and babylights; each controls placement and the amount of lift.

Color removal and correction require a strand test and a plan; a color remover is not the same as lightener and does not lift natural pigment.

After-color care includes sulfate-free shampoo and color-protecting conditioner; sun, chlorine, and heat accelerate fading.

A color service record includes formula, developer, timing, and result, so the formula can be repeated or adjusted.

Hair is composed mainly of keratin, a protein; the cortex contains the melanin that gives hair its color.

Hair growth rate averages about 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) per month; growth slows with age and varies by body site.

Hair types are classified as lanugo (fine prenatal hair), vellus (fine, short body hair), and terminal (long, coarse hair).

The skin's barrier function resides in the stratum corneum of the epidermis; repeated chemical exposure can compromise it.

Sweat glands include eccrine (temperature regulation) and apocrine (associated with hair follicles in axillae and groin).

The sensory receptors of the skin include Meissner's corpuscles (light touch) and Pacinian corpuscles (deep pressure).

The bones of the cranium protect the brain; the facial skeleton includes the zygomatic, maxilla, and mandible.

The circulatory system supplies the hair follicle via the papilla; good circulation supports hair growth.

Licensure requires completion of a state-approved barber program, passage of a written and practical exam, and payment of fees; renewal requires continuing education in most states.

Scope of practice defines what a licensed barber may perform; services outside that scope, such as certain medical or skin treatments, are prohibited.

Sanitation inspections are conducted by the state board; violations can result in fines, suspension, or license revocation.

Business structures include sole proprietorship, partnership, LLC, and corporation; each affects liability and taxation.

Booth rental and commission are the two common compensation models; booth renters pay a fixed rent and keep their own income.

A business plan includes market analysis, services and pricing, marketing, and financial projections.

Client confidentiality and record retention are legal obligations; records are released only with client consent or as required by law.

Professional liability insurance covers claims arising from services; it is separate from general business insurance.