ID Cosmetology cheat sheet

Hair has three layers: cuticle (outer overlapping scales), cortex (middle, holds melanin and gives strength and elasticity), and medulla (innermost, may be absent in fine hair).

The hair follicle extends from the epidermis into the dermis; the bulb at its base contains the matrix where mitosis produces new cells and the papilla that supplies blood and nutrients.

Growth cycle: anagen (active growth, roughly 2-7 years), catagen (transition, about 2 weeks), telogen (resting, about 3 months), then exogen shedding.

pH scale: 0-14; hair and skin are acidic near pH 4.5-5.5. Alkaline solutions swell the cuticle and raise porosity; acidic solutions tighten and smooth it.

Oxidation-reduction: hydrogen peroxide (developer) supplies oxygen to lighten melanin and to polymerize color; thioglycolate (perms) and hydroxide (relaxers) break disulfide bonds, which re-form in the new shape.

Levels 1-10 measure lightness/darkness; undertone is the warmth left after lightening (red, orange, yellow). Complementary pairs (blue-orange, green-red, violet-yellow) neutralize.

Infection control hierarchy: cleaning (removes debris), disinfection (kills most pathogens on nonporous items with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product), sterilization (destroys all microbial life).

Bloodborne pathogens (HBV, HCV, HIV) spread through blood and body fluids; standard precautions require gloves and handwashing and treating all blood as infectious.

Sanitation terms: bacteria are single-celled; viruses need a host; fungi cause ringworm and tinea; parasites include lice and mites. Disinfect implements after every client.

Wet hair stretches up to about 50% of its length; dry hair about 20%. Cut wet hair with tension and check the dry result before finishing.

Elevation controls graduation: 0 degrees = solid form, 45 = low elevation, 90 = uniform layer, 180 = long-layered. Distribution and projection determine where weight builds.

The four haircutting sections are front, crown, sides, and nape; subsection size should match the width of the shears or clipper blade being used.

Cortex bonds: hydrogen bonds break with water and re-form on drying (blow-dry shaping); salt bonds break with pH change; disulfide bonds require chemical reducing or oxidizing agents.

Permanent wave (cold wave): pre-wrap, apply thioglycolate (reducing), process, rinse, then neutralize with hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate to re-form disulfide bonds and lock the curl.

Relaxer strength is set by hydroxide concentration and processing time; base the scalp with protective cream, apply to new growth only, and never overlap onto previously relaxed hair.

Color categories: temporary (stains cuticle), semipermanent (deposits, no lift), demi-permanent (low-volume developer, deposit), permanent (lift plus deposit).

Developer volumes: 10 (deposit only), 20 (1 level lift), 30 (2-3 levels), 40 (3-4 levels, maximum). Lightening beyond 4 levels risks damage and is not permitted with standard formulas.

Strand test before any chemical service verifies timing, result, and elasticity; elasticity test on wet hair shows whether bonds can withstand processing.

Thermal styling: flat iron and curling iron temperature should match hair texture; fine or damaged hair needs lower heat and a heat protectant.

Nail anatomy: nail plate (visible body), nail bed (skin beneath), matrix (growth area under the proximal nail fold), cuticle (dead tissue on the plate), eponychium (living skin at the base), hyponychium (seal under the free edge), and lunula (visible matrix).

Nail plate grows about 0.1 mm per day (roughly 3 mm per month); fingernails replace fully in about 4-6 months, toenails in 9-12 months.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, round, oval, and pointed. File in one direction from corner to center to prevent splitting; avoid filing back and forth on natural nails.

Manicure sequence: consultation, wash hands, shape, soak and soften, push back cuticle gently, apply cuticle oil, massage, polish. Never cut living tissue unless trained and permitted.

Pedicure: soak, sanitize, file, treat calluses with a paddle, massage, polish. Diabetic or circulation-impaired clients need extra caution and no sharp tools.

Skin layers: epidermis (outer, with stratum corneum), dermis (collagen, elastin, nerves, glands), and subcutaneous layer. Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive.

Facial sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract (if trained), massage, mask, moisturize, protect with SPF. Follow massage direction away from the center of the face.

Contraindications for skin services: open lesions, active infection, recent chemical peel, sunburn, or undiagnosed rash. Refer to a physician rather than treat.

Nail disorders: onychomycosis (fungal), paronychia (bacterial infection of the nail fold), onychorrhexis (splitting), and leukonychia (white spots). Refer rather than treat infection.

Idaho cosmetology is regulated by the Idaho Board of Cosmetology under the Division of Occupational and Professional Licenses (DOPL); the Board adopts rules that set licensing, sanitation, and scope of practice.

Idaho license categories include cosmetologist, barber, esthetician, nail technician, and electrologist. Each has its own required training hours and examination; verify current hours with the Board before enrolling.

Licenses must be renewed on the Board's cycle and displayed at the workstation; practicing on an expired license is a violation subject to discipline.

Idaho requires a licensed instructor to supervise students; student services are performed in a licensed school on clients who sign consent, and students may not charge or work independently.

Sanitation rules: wash hands before each client, use clean capes and towels per client, disinfect implements in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant at label contact time, and keep a covered waste container.

Prohibited practices include treating infectious conditions, using unapproved chemicals, and performing services outside the licensed scope; violations can bring fines, suspension, or revocation.

Business math: gross profit = revenue - cost of goods; retail-to-service ratio tracks product sales; a service price must cover product cost, labor, overhead, and profit margin.

Recordkeeping: client cards should record service, formula, products, and any reactions; keep records as required by the Board and for liability protection.

Safety: know Material Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for every chemical, ventilate the chemical area, and never mix products unless the manufacturer directs it.

Consultation sequence: greet, gather history (previous chemical services, allergies, medications), analyze hair and scalp, discuss options, agree on the plan, then perform.

Patch test 24-48 hours before any color or chemical service when the client is new to the product or has a history of reaction; document the result.

Ask open questions ("What do you like about your current style?") to reveal goals; use closed questions to confirm specifics like length and timing.

Translate technical terms into client language: say "warm tones" rather than "level 7 with gold undertone" unless the client uses those terms.

Reflective listening and paraphrasing confirm understanding; repeat the agreed price, time, and maintenance plan before starting.

Confidentiality and professionalism: protect client information, avoid discussing other clients, and do not make promises about results you cannot deliver.

When a client requests a service outside your scope or unsafe for their hair, explain the reason, offer an alternative, and refer when needed.

Documentation and follow-up: record the formula and service, explain home care, and schedule a check-in for chemical services.

Professional image includes clean uniform, tied-back hair, short nails, no strong fragrance, and clean tools; appearance communicates sanitation.

Scope of practice: only perform services your license covers; refer medical conditions (persistent scalp lesions, nail infection) to a physician.

Communication barriers: language, hearing, anxiety, and cost concerns. Use a translator, written notes, or a private area to resolve them.

Ethics: informed consent, honest pricing, no upselling of unnecessary services, and disclosure of risks such as lightening damage or allergic reaction.

Conflict resolution: listen without defending, acknowledge the concern, restate the agreed service, and offer a remedy within policy; document the outcome.

Time management: book chemical services with processing time in mind, and set a realistic appointment length to avoid rushing the service.

Continuing education keeps licensees current on new products, sanitation rules, and Idaho Board updates.

Inspect tools before each client: shears sharp, clippers oiled, cords undamaged, and no rust on implements that contact skin.

Disinfectant contact time is set by the label; soaking for less time does not disinfect. Change solution when it is cloudy or at the label interval.

Wet floors, spilled chemicals, and overloaded outlets are common salon hazards; clean spills immediately and keep cords off walkways.

Idaho rules require a posted license, a current sanitation inspection, and compliance with Board rules at every salon and school.

Client injury or reaction: stop the service, provide first aid, document the event, and report as required by the Board or physician advice.

Never use products with an expired date or unlabeled containers; keep original labels and SDS accessible.

Insurance and liability: professional liability coverage protects against claims; accurate records support defense.

Idaho Board of Cosmetology is under DOPL; the Board licenses individuals and salons and investigates complaints.

Unlicensed practice is prohibited; only licensed persons may perform services for compensation, and students must be supervised.

Sanitation violations can result in fines, probation, suspension, or revocation; the Board publishes rules and updates.

License renewal requires the Board's fee and any required continuing education; check the current cycle on the DOPL website.

Salon owners must ensure all staff hold valid licenses and that the salon meets sanitation and safety rules.

Advertising must be truthful; claiming services outside your license or false credentials is a violation.

Surfactants in shampoo lift oils and debris; the hydrophilic head bonds with water and the lipophilic tail bonds with oil.

Conditioners work by cationic attraction to negatively charged hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing static.

Ammonia raises pH and opens the cuticle so color can enter; it also causes the characteristic odor. Ammonia-free colors use ethanolamine or similar alkalizers.

Hydrogen peroxide decomposes into water and oxygen; the oxygen lightens melanin and develops color. Stabilizers and pH control the rate.

Acid-balanced products (pH 4.5-5.5) close the cuticle after alkaline services and improve shine.

Hard water minerals (calcium, magnesium) can build up on hair; chelating or clarifying shampoo removes them.

Patch test and skin sensitivity: allergic reactions to PPD and related dyes are possible; a patch test and history reduce risk.

Determine natural level and target level; the difference is the number of levels of lift. Choose developer volume accordingly (20 for 1 level, 30 for 2-3, 40 for 3-4).

Gray coverage: use a formula one level lighter than the natural level for 50%+ gray; mix with equal parts developer.

Tone: choose a shade with the same or complementary undertone; use ash to neutralize unwanted warmth, gold to add warmth.

Apply root to ends for virgin hair; retouch only new growth on previously colored hair to avoid overprocessing.

Color removal and correction: use a color remover to shrink dye molecules, then re-color; lightening beyond the target requires strand testing.

Record the formula (color, developer, timing) on the client card for repeatability and correction.

Sectioning and parting: clean partings and consistent subsection size keep the cut balanced; check the cut from all sides and against the natural fall.

Guide (traveling, stationary, or mobile): the first cut establishes the length; keep the guide visible to maintain consistency.

Texturizing removes bulk and adds movement; use point cutting, notching, or slicing and check the result on dry hair.

Blow-dry styling: direct airflow from scalp to ends to smooth the cuticle; use a round brush for volume and a paddle brush for smoothness.

Thermal protection and tool heat: match temperature to texture; fine hair needs lower heat and less contact time.

Clipper work: use guards and blade sizes consistently; keep the blade flat and move against the grain for a closer cut.

Single-use items (emery boards, orangewood sticks, cotton) are discarded after one client; porous items cannot be disinfected.

Implements that contact skin or nails must be cleaned then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product at label contact time.

Nail drill bits must be cleaned and disinfected; use proper speed and avoid excessive pressure to prevent heat and damage.

Skin care tools (extractors, brushes) must be disinfected between clients; never double-dip products from a jar.

Contraindications: active infection, open lesions, or recent surgery require referral; do not treat fungal or bacterial infections.

Client consent and patch testing for products reduce allergic reaction risk.

Retail price = cost + markup; a common markup is 2x cost (keystone) or higher for retail.

Service price must cover product cost, labor, overhead, and profit; calculate cost per service from product usage.

Gross profit = revenue - cost of goods sold; net profit = gross profit - operating expenses.

Booking and utilization: track service time and processing time to maximize chair utilization without rushing.

Inventory control: rotate stock, check expiration dates, and record usage to control cost.

Client retention: follow-up and rebooking increase lifetime value; measure retention rate monthly.

Handwashing with soap and water is required before and after each client and after restroom use; hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Disinfectant must be mixed at the label dilution, used at the label contact time, and changed when cloudy or at the label interval.

Keep clean and soiled items separated; use closed containers for soiled linens and covered waste for blood-contaminated items.

Blood exposure: wear gloves, stop the service, clean the area, disinfect tools, and dispose of contaminated items per OSHA and Board rules.

Chemicals must be stored in labeled original containers, away from food, and SDS must be accessible.

Salon inspection: the Board or its designee may inspect; violations must be corrected and documented.

Informed consent: explain the service, risks, alternatives, and cost before starting; document the client's agreement.

Confidentiality: do not disclose client information or discuss other clients; store records securely.

Boundaries: maintain professional touch and language; avoid personal relationships that compromise professionalism.

Cultural competence: ask about hair care practices and preferences; adapt products and techniques to the client's hair type and history.

Conflict and complaints: listen, acknowledge, and offer a remedy within policy; document the resolution.

Referral: when a condition is outside your scope, refer to a physician or appropriate professional and document the referral.

Skin is the largest organ; it protects, regulates temperature, and senses touch. It has three layers: epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous.

Hair and nails are appendages of the skin made of keratin; the follicle and matrix produce hair and nail plate.

Muscles of the head and neck (frontalis, temporalis, masseter, occipitalis) affect facial expression and massage technique.

Nerves and blood vessels supply the scalp and face; massage follows the direction of venous return and avoids pressure on arteries.

Bones of the skull (frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital) and face (zygomatic, mandible, maxilla) guide safe massage and facial landmarks.

pH and the acid mantle: skin and hair are acidic near pH 4.5-5.5; alkaline products swell the cuticle and raise porosity.

Oxidation: hydrogen peroxide releases oxygen to lighten melanin and develop color; the reaction is controlled by pH and stabilizers.

Reduction: thioglycolate and hydroxide break disulfide bonds in perms and relaxers; neutralizers re-form the bonds.

Surfactants: the hydrophilic head bonds with water, the lipophilic tail bonds with oil, allowing shampoo to lift debris.

Conditioners: cationic molecules bond to negatively charged hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing static.

Preservatives and allergens: PPD in color and some preservatives can cause allergic reactions; patch testing reduces risk.

Patch test 24-48 hours before color or chemical service when the client is new to the product or has a history of reaction; document the result.

Strand test before chemical service verifies timing and result; check elasticity on wet hair to assess bond strength.

Never overlap relaxer onto previously relaxed hair; apply to new growth only and base the scalp.

Developer volume controls lift: 10 deposit, 20 one level, 30 two to three levels, 40 three to four levels (maximum).

Lightening beyond four levels risks damage; do not exceed manufacturer directions and use bond builders as directed.

Rinse thoroughly after chemical services to remove product residue and restore pH with an acid-balanced conditioner.

Manicure sequence: consultation, wash, shape, soak, push cuticle, oil, massage, polish; never cut living tissue unless trained and permitted.

Pedicure: soak, sanitize, file, treat calluses, massage, polish; diabetic or circulation-impaired clients need extra caution and no sharp tools.

Facial sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract (if trained), massage, mask, moisturize, protect with SPF.

Massage direction: away from the center of the face, following muscle and lymph flow; avoid pressure on arteries and inflamed areas.

Contraindications: open lesions, active infection, recent chemical peel, sunburn, or undiagnosed rash require referral.

Nail disorders: onychomycosis (fungal), paronychia (bacterial), onychorrhexis (splitting), leukonychia (white spots); refer rather than treat infection.

Idaho Board of Cosmetology under DOPL licenses individuals and salons and investigates complaints; rules set sanitation, licensing, and scope of practice.

Idaho license categories include cosmetologist, barber, esthetician, nail technician, and electrologist; each has its own training hours and examination.

Licenses must be renewed on the Board's cycle and displayed at the workstation; practicing on an expired license is a violation.

Students must be supervised by a licensed instructor and may not charge or work independently.

Sanitation rules: wash hands before each client, use clean capes and towels per client, disinfect implements at label contact time, and keep a covered waste container.

Business math: gross profit = revenue - cost of goods; service price must cover product, labor, overhead, and profit margin.

Consultation sequence: greet, gather history (previous chemical services, allergies, medications), analyze hair and scalp, discuss options, agree on the plan, then perform.

Ask open questions to reveal goals; use closed questions to confirm specifics like length and timing.

Translate technical terms into client language unless the client uses them; confirm understanding by paraphrasing.

Repeat the agreed price, time, and maintenance plan before starting; document the agreement.

Confidentiality and professionalism: protect client information and avoid discussing other clients.

Refer when a condition is outside your scope or unsafe for the hair; explain the reason and offer an alternative.

Cleaning removes debris; disinfection kills most pathogens on nonporous items with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product; sterilization destroys all microbial life.

Bloodborne pathogens (HBV, HCV, HIV) spread through blood and body fluids; standard precautions require gloves and handwashing and treating all blood as infectious.

Bacteria are single-celled; viruses need a host; fungi cause ringworm and tinea; parasites include lice and mites.

Disinfect implements after every client; porous items (emery boards, cotton) are single-use and discarded.

Disinfectant must be mixed at the label dilution, used at the label contact time, and changed when cloudy or at the label interval.

Keep clean and soiled items separated; use closed containers for soiled linens and covered waste for blood-contaminated items.

Wet hair stretches up to about 50% of its length; dry hair about 20%. Cut wet hair with tension and check the dry result.

Elevation controls graduation: 0 degrees solid form, 45 low elevation, 90 uniform layer, 180 long-layered. Distribution and projection determine where weight builds.

The four haircutting sections are front, crown, sides, and nape; subsection size should match the width of the shears or clipper blade.

Guide (traveling, stationary, or mobile): the first cut establishes the length; keep the guide visible to maintain consistency.

Texturizing removes bulk and adds movement; use point cutting, notching, or slicing and check the result on dry hair.

Sectioning and parting: clean partings and consistent subsection size keep the cut balanced; check the cut from all sides and against the natural fall.

Levels 1-10 measure lightness/darkness; undertone is the warmth left after lightening (red, orange, yellow). Complementary pairs (blue-orange, green-red, violet-yellow) neutralize.

Color categories: temporary (stains cuticle), semipermanent (deposits, no lift), demi-permanent (low-volume developer, deposit), permanent (lift plus deposit).

Developer volumes: 10 deposit only, 20 one level lift, 30 two to three levels, 40 three to four levels (maximum).

Permanent wave (cold wave): pre-wrap, apply thioglycolate (reducing), process, rinse, then neutralize with hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate to re-form disulfide bonds.

Relaxer strength is set by hydroxide concentration and processing time; base the scalp with protective cream, apply to new growth only, and never overlap onto previously relaxed hair.

Record the formula (color, developer, timing) on the client card for repeatability and correction.

Nail anatomy: nail plate (visible body), nail bed (skin beneath), matrix (growth area under the proximal nail fold), cuticle (dead tissue on the plate), eponychium (living skin at the base), hyponychium (seal under the free edge), and lunula (visible matrix).

Nail plate grows about 0.1 mm per day (roughly 3 mm per month); fingernails replace fully in about 4-6 months, toenails in 9-12 months.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, round, oval, and pointed. File in one direction from corner to center to prevent splitting.

Skin layers: epidermis (outer, with stratum corneum), dermis (collagen, elastin, nerves, glands), and subcutaneous layer. Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive.

Facial sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract (if trained), massage, mask, moisturize, protect with SPF. Follow massage direction away from the center of the face.

Contraindications for skin services: open lesions, active infection, recent chemical peel, sunburn, or undiagnosed rash. Refer to a physician rather than treat.

Idaho cosmetology is regulated by the Idaho Board of Cosmetology under the Division of Occupational and Professional Licenses (DOPL); the Board adopts rules that set licensing, sanitation, and scope of practice.

Idaho license categories include cosmetologist, barber, esthetician, nail technician, and electrologist. Each has its own required training hours and examination; verify current hours with the Board before enrolling.

Licenses must be renewed on the Board's cycle and displayed at the workstation; practicing on an expired license is a violation subject to discipline.

Idaho requires a licensed instructor to supervise students; student services are performed in a licensed school on clients who sign consent, and students may not charge or work independently.

Prohibited practices include treating infectious conditions, using unapproved chemicals, and performing services outside the licensed scope; violations can bring fines, suspension, or revocation.

Salon owners must ensure all staff hold valid licenses and that the salon meets sanitation and safety rules.

Professional image includes clean uniform, tied-back hair, short nails, no strong fragrance, and clean tools; appearance communicates sanitation.

Scope of practice: only perform services your license covers; refer medical conditions (persistent scalp lesions, nail infection) to a physician.

Informed consent: explain the service, risks, alternatives, and cost before starting; document the client's agreement.

Ethics: honest pricing, no upselling of unnecessary services, and disclosure of risks such as lightening damage or allergic reaction.

Conflict resolution: listen without defending, acknowledge the concern, restate the agreed service, and offer a remedy within policy; document the outcome.

Continuing education keeps licensees current on new products, sanitation rules, and Idaho Board updates.

Inspect tools before each client: shears sharp, clippers oiled, cords undamaged, and no rust on implements that contact skin.

Wet floors, spilled chemicals, and overloaded outlets are common salon hazards; clean spills immediately and keep cords off walkways.

Know the SDS for every chemical, ventilate the chemical area, and never mix products unless the manufacturer directs it.

Client injury or reaction: stop the service, provide first aid, document the event, and report as required by the Board or physician advice.

Never use products with an expired date or unlabeled containers; keep original labels and SDS accessible.

Professional liability coverage protects against claims; accurate records support defense.

Hair texture: fine, medium, or coarse; density: thin, medium, or thick; porosity: low, normal, or high. Porosity is tested by sliding fingers up a wet strand.

Elasticity test: stretch a wet strand; if it snaps quickly, bonds are weak and chemical service may be unsafe.

Scalp conditions: dry, oily, or normal; note redness, lesions, or flaking and refer if infectious.

Hair growth patterns: cowlicks, whorls, and growth direction affect cut and style; work with the natural fall.

Hair color history: previous lightening, henna, or metallic salts can react with color and perms; ask and strand test.

Client lifestyle and maintenance: time, budget, and home care determine realistic service choices.

Retail price = cost + markup; a common markup is 2x cost (keystone) or higher for retail.

Service price must cover product cost, labor, overhead, and profit; calculate cost per service from product usage.

Gross profit = revenue - cost of goods sold; net profit = gross profit - operating expenses.

Booking and utilization: track service time and processing time to maximize chair utilization without rushing.

Inventory control: rotate stock, check expiration dates, and record usage to control cost.

Client retention: follow-up and rebooking increase lifetime value; measure retention rate monthly.

Surfactants in shampoo lift oils and debris; the hydrophilic head bonds with water and the lipophilic tail bonds with oil.

Conditioners work by cationic attraction to negatively charged hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing static.

Ammonia raises pH and opens the cuticle so color can enter; ammonia-free colors use ethanolamine or similar alkalizers.

Hydrogen peroxide decomposes into water and oxygen; the oxygen lightens melanin and develops color. Stabilizers and pH control the rate.

Acid-balanced products (pH 4.5-5.5) close the cuticle after alkaline services and improve shine.

Hard water minerals (calcium, magnesium) can build up on hair; chelating or clarifying shampoo removes them.

Handwashing with soap and water is required before and after each client and after restroom use; hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Disinfectant must be mixed at the label dilution, used at the label contact time, and changed when cloudy or at the label interval.

Single-use items (emery boards, orangewood sticks, cotton) are discarded after one client; porous items cannot be disinfected.

Implements that contact skin or nails must be cleaned then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product at label contact time.

Blood exposure: wear gloves, stop the service, clean the area, disinfect tools, and dispose of contaminated items per OSHA and Board rules.

Chemicals must be stored in labeled original containers, away from food, and SDS must be accessible.

Hair has three layers: cuticle (outer overlapping scales), cortex (middle, holds melanin and gives strength and elasticity), and medulla (innermost, may be absent in fine hair).

The hair follicle extends from the epidermis into the dermis; the bulb at its base contains the matrix where mitosis produces new cells and the papilla that supplies blood and nutrients.

Growth cycle: anagen (active growth, roughly 2-7 years), catagen (transition, about 2 weeks), telogen (resting, about 3 months), then exogen shedding.

pH scale: 0-14; hair and skin are acidic near pH 4.5-5.5. Alkaline solutions swell the cuticle and raise porosity; acidic solutions tighten and smooth it.

Oxidation-reduction: hydrogen peroxide (developer) supplies oxygen to lighten melanin and to polymerize color; thioglycolate (perms) and hydroxide (relaxers) break disulfide bonds, which re-form in the new shape.

Levels 1-10 measure lightness/darkness; undertone is the warmth left after lightening (red, orange, yellow). Complementary pairs (blue-orange, green-red, violet-yellow) neutralize.

Infection control hierarchy: cleaning (removes debris), disinfection (kills most pathogens on nonporous items with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product), sterilization (destroys all microbial life).

Bloodborne pathogens (HBV, HCV, HIV) spread through blood and body fluids; standard precautions require gloves and handwashing and treating all blood as infectious.

Sanitation terms: bacteria are single-celled; viruses need a host; fungi cause ringworm and tinea; parasites include lice and mites. Disinfect implements after every client.

Wet hair stretches up to about 50% of its length; dry hair about 20%. Cut wet hair with tension and check the dry result before finishing.

Elevation controls graduation: 0 degrees = solid form, 45 = low elevation, 90 = uniform layer, 180 = long-layered. Distribution and projection determine where weight builds.

The four haircutting sections are front, crown, sides, and nape; subsection size should match the width of the shears or clipper blade being used.

Cortex bonds: hydrogen bonds break with water and re-form on drying (blow-dry shaping); salt bonds break with pH change; disulfide bonds require chemical reducing or oxidizing agents.

Permanent wave (cold wave): pre-wrap, apply thioglycolate (reducing), process, rinse, then neutralize with hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate to re-form disulfide bonds and lock the curl.

Relaxer strength is set by hydroxide concentration and processing time; base the scalp with protective cream, apply to new growth only, and never overlap onto previously relaxed hair.

Color categories: temporary (stains cuticle), semipermanent (deposits, no lift), demi-permanent (low-volume developer, deposit), permanent (lift plus deposit).

Developer volumes: 10 (deposit only), 20 (1 level lift), 30 (2-3 levels), 40 (3-4 levels, maximum). Lightening beyond 4 levels risks damage and is not permitted with standard formulas.

Strand test before any chemical service verifies timing, result, and elasticity; elasticity test on wet hair shows whether bonds can withstand processing.

Thermal styling: flat iron and curling iron temperature should match hair texture; fine or damaged hair needs lower heat and a heat protectant.

Nail anatomy: nail plate (visible body), nail bed (skin beneath), matrix (growth area under the proximal nail fold), cuticle (dead tissue on the plate), eponychium (living skin at the base), hyponychium (seal under the free edge), and lunula (visible matrix).

Nail plate grows about 0.1 mm per day (roughly 3 mm per month); fingernails replace fully in about 4-6 months, toenails in 9-12 months.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, round, oval, and pointed. File in one direction from corner to center to prevent splitting; avoid filing back and forth on natural nails.

Manicure sequence: consultation, wash hands, shape, soak and soften, push back cuticle gently, apply cuticle oil, massage, polish. Never cut living tissue unless trained and permitted.

Pedicure: soak, sanitize, file, treat calluses with a paddle, massage, polish. Diabetic or circulation-impaired clients need extra caution and no sharp tools.

Skin layers: epidermis (outer, with stratum corneum), dermis (collagen, elastin, nerves, glands), and subcutaneous layer. Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive.

Facial sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract (if trained), massage, mask, moisturize, protect with SPF. Follow massage direction away from the center of the face.

Contraindications for skin services: open lesions, active infection, recent chemical peel, sunburn, or undiagnosed rash. Refer to a physician rather than treat.

Nail disorders: onychomycosis (fungal), paronychia (bacterial infection of the nail fold), onychorrhexis (splitting), and leukonychia (white spots). Refer rather than treat infection.

Idaho cosmetology is regulated by the Idaho Board of Cosmetology under the Division of Occupational and Professional Licenses (DOPL); the Board adopts rules that set licensing, sanitation, and scope of practice.

Idaho license categories include cosmetologist, barber, esthetician, nail technician, and electrologist. Each has its own required training hours and examination; verify current hours with the Board before enrolling.

Licenses must be renewed on the Board's cycle and displayed at the workstation; practicing on an expired license is a violation subject to discipline.

Idaho requires a licensed instructor to supervise students; student services are performed in a licensed school on clients who sign consent, and students may not charge or work independently.

Sanitation rules: wash hands before each client, use clean capes and towels per client, disinfect implements in an EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant at label contact time, and keep a covered waste container.

Prohibited practices include treating infectious conditions, using unapproved chemicals, and performing services outside the licensed scope; violations can bring fines, suspension, or revocation.

Business math: gross profit = revenue - cost of goods; retail-to-service ratio tracks product sales; a service price must cover product cost, labor, overhead, and profit margin.

Recordkeeping: client cards should record service, formula, products, and any reactions; keep records as required by the Board and for liability protection.

Safety: know Material Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for every chemical, ventilate the chemical area, and never mix products unless the manufacturer directs it.

Consultation sequence: greet, gather history (previous chemical services, allergies, medications), analyze hair and scalp, discuss options, agree on the plan, then perform.

Patch test 24-48 hours before any color or chemical service when the client is new to the product or has a history of reaction; document the result.

Ask open questions ("What do you like about your current style?") to reveal goals; use closed questions to confirm specifics like length and timing.

Translate technical terms into client language: say "warm tones" rather than "level 7 with gold undertone" unless the client uses those terms.

Reflective listening and paraphrasing confirm understanding; repeat the agreed price, time, and maintenance plan before starting.

Confidentiality and professionalism: protect client information, avoid discussing other clients, and do not make promises about results you cannot deliver.

When a client requests a service outside your scope or unsafe for their hair, explain the reason, offer an alternative, and refer when needed.

Documentation and follow-up: record the formula and service, explain home care, and schedule a check-in for chemical services.

Professional image includes clean uniform, tied-back hair, short nails, no strong fragrance, and clean tools; appearance communicates sanitation.

Scope of practice: only perform services your license covers; refer medical conditions (persistent scalp lesions, nail infection) to a physician.

Communication barriers: language, hearing, anxiety, and cost concerns. Use a translator, written notes, or a private area to resolve them.

Ethics: informed consent, honest pricing, no upselling of unnecessary services, and disclosure of risks such as lightening damage or allergic reaction.

Conflict resolution: listen without defending, acknowledge the concern, restate the agreed service, and offer a remedy within policy; document the outcome.

Time management: book chemical services with processing time in mind, and set a realistic appointment length to avoid rushing the service.

Continuing education keeps licensees current on new products, sanitation rules, and Idaho Board updates.

Inspect tools before each client: shears sharp, clippers oiled, cords undamaged, and no rust on implements that contact skin.

Disinfectant contact time is set by the label; soaking for less time does not disinfect. Change solution when it is cloudy or at the label interval.

Wet floors, spilled chemicals, and overloaded outlets are common salon hazards; clean spills immediately and keep cords off walkways.

Idaho rules require a posted license, a current sanitation inspection, and compliance with Board rules at every salon and school.

Client injury or reaction: stop the service, provide first aid, document the event, and report as required by the Board or physician advice.

Never use products with an expired date or unlabeled containers; keep original labels and SDS accessible.

Insurance and liability: professional liability coverage protects against claims; accurate records support defense.

Idaho Board of Cosmetology is under DOPL; the Board licenses individuals and salons and investigates complaints.

Unlicensed practice is prohibited; only licensed persons may perform services for compensation, and students must be supervised.

Sanitation violations can result in fines, probation, suspension, or revocation; the Board publishes rules and updates.

License renewal requires the Board's fee and any required continuing education; check the current cycle on the DOPL website.

Salon owners must ensure all staff hold valid licenses and that the salon meets sanitation and safety rules.

Advertising must be truthful; claiming services outside your license or false credentials is a violation.

Surfactants in shampoo lift oils and debris; the hydrophilic head bonds with water and the lipophilic tail bonds with oil.

Conditioners work by cationic attraction to negatively charged hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing static.

Ammonia raises pH and opens the cuticle so color can enter; it also causes the characteristic odor. Ammonia-free colors use ethanolamine or similar alkalizers.

Hydrogen peroxide decomposes into water and oxygen; the oxygen lightens melanin and develops color. Stabilizers and pH control the rate.

Acid-balanced products (pH 4.5-5.5) close the cuticle after alkaline services and improve shine.

Hard water minerals (calcium, magnesium) can build up on hair; chelating or clarifying shampoo removes them.

Patch test and skin sensitivity: allergic reactions to PPD and related dyes are possible; a patch test and history reduce risk.

Determine natural level and target level; the difference is the number of levels of lift. Choose developer volume accordingly (20 for 1 level, 30 for 2-3, 40 for 3-4).

Gray coverage: use a formula one level lighter than the natural level for 50%+ gray; mix with equal parts developer.

Tone: choose a shade with the same or complementary undertone; use ash to neutralize unwanted warmth, gold to add warmth.

Apply root to ends for virgin hair; retouch only new growth on previously colored hair to avoid overprocessing.

Color removal and correction: use a color remover to shrink dye molecules, then re-color; lightening beyond the target requires strand testing.

Record the formula (color, developer, timing) on the client card for repeatability and correction.

Sectioning and parting: clean partings and consistent subsection size keep the cut balanced; check the cut from all sides and against the natural fall.

Guide (traveling, stationary, or mobile): the first cut establishes the length; keep the guide visible to maintain consistency.

Texturizing removes bulk and adds movement; use point cutting, notching, or slicing and check the result on dry hair.

Blow-dry styling: direct airflow from scalp to ends to smooth the cuticle; use a round brush for volume and a paddle brush for smoothness.

Thermal protection and tool heat: match temperature to texture; fine hair needs lower heat and less contact time.

Clipper work: use guards and blade sizes consistently; keep the blade flat and move against the grain for a closer cut.

Single-use items (emery boards, orangewood sticks, cotton) are discarded after one client; porous items cannot be disinfected.

Implements that contact skin or nails must be cleaned then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product at label contact time.

Nail drill bits must be cleaned and disinfected; use proper speed and avoid excessive pressure to prevent heat and damage.

Skin care tools (extractors, brushes) must be disinfected between clients; never double-dip products from a jar.

Contraindications: active infection, open lesions, or recent surgery require referral; do not treat fungal or bacterial infections.

Client consent and patch testing for products reduce allergic reaction risk.

Retail price = cost + markup; a common markup is 2x cost (keystone) or higher for retail.

Service price must cover product cost, labor, overhead, and profit; calculate cost per service from product usage.

Gross profit = revenue - cost of goods sold; net profit = gross profit - operating expenses.

Booking and utilization: track service time and processing time to maximize chair utilization without rushing.

Inventory control: rotate stock, check expiration dates, and record usage to control cost.

Client retention: follow-up and rebooking increase lifetime value; measure retention rate monthly.

Handwashing with soap and water is required before and after each client and after restroom use; hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Disinfectant must be mixed at the label dilution, used at the label contact time, and changed when cloudy or at the label interval.

Keep clean and soiled items separated; use closed containers for soiled linens and covered waste for blood-contaminated items.

Blood exposure: wear gloves, stop the service, clean the area, disinfect tools, and dispose of contaminated items per OSHA and Board rules.

Chemicals must be stored in labeled original containers, away from food, and SDS must be accessible.

Salon inspection: the Board or its designee may inspect; violations must be corrected and documented.

Informed consent: explain the service, risks, alternatives, and cost before starting; document the client's agreement.

Confidentiality: do not disclose client information or discuss other clients; store records securely.

Boundaries: maintain professional touch and language; avoid personal relationships that compromise professionalism.

Cultural competence: ask about hair care practices and preferences; adapt products and techniques to the client's hair type and history.

Conflict and complaints: listen, acknowledge, and offer a remedy within policy; document the resolution.

Referral: when a condition is outside your scope, refer to a physician or appropriate professional and document the referral.

Skin is the largest organ; it protects, regulates temperature, and senses touch. It has three layers: epidermis, dermis, subcutaneous.

Hair and nails are appendages of the skin made of keratin; the follicle and matrix produce hair and nail plate.

Muscles of the head and neck (frontalis, temporalis, masseter, occipitalis) affect facial expression and massage technique.

Nerves and blood vessels supply the scalp and face; massage follows the direction of venous return and avoids pressure on arteries.

Bones of the skull (frontal, parietal, temporal, occipital) and face (zygomatic, mandible, maxilla) guide safe massage and facial landmarks.

pH and the acid mantle: skin and hair are acidic near pH 4.5-5.5; alkaline products swell the cuticle and raise porosity.

Oxidation: hydrogen peroxide releases oxygen to lighten melanin and develop color; the reaction is controlled by pH and stabilizers.

Reduction: thioglycolate and hydroxide break disulfide bonds in perms and relaxers; neutralizers re-form the bonds.

Surfactants: the hydrophilic head bonds with water, the lipophilic tail bonds with oil, allowing shampoo to lift debris.

Conditioners: cationic molecules bond to negatively charged hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing static.

Preservatives and allergens: PPD in color and some preservatives can cause allergic reactions; patch testing reduces risk.

Patch test 24-48 hours before color or chemical service when the client is new to the product or has a history of reaction; document the result.

Strand test before chemical service verifies timing and result; check elasticity on wet hair to assess bond strength.

Never overlap relaxer onto previously relaxed hair; apply to new growth only and base the scalp.

Developer volume controls lift: 10 deposit, 20 one level, 30 two to three levels, 40 three to four levels (maximum).

Lightening beyond four levels risks damage; do not exceed manufacturer directions and use bond builders as directed.

Rinse thoroughly after chemical services to remove product residue and restore pH with an acid-balanced conditioner.

Manicure sequence: consultation, wash, shape, soak, push cuticle, oil, massage, polish; never cut living tissue unless trained and permitted.

Pedicure: soak, sanitize, file, treat calluses, massage, polish; diabetic or circulation-impaired clients need extra caution and no sharp tools.

Facial sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract (if trained), massage, mask, moisturize, protect with SPF.

Massage direction: away from the center of the face, following muscle and lymph flow; avoid pressure on arteries and inflamed areas.

Contraindications: open lesions, active infection, recent chemical peel, sunburn, or undiagnosed rash require referral.

Nail disorders: onychomycosis (fungal), paronychia (bacterial), onychorrhexis (splitting), leukonychia (white spots); refer rather than treat infection.

Idaho Board of Cosmetology under DOPL licenses individuals and salons and investigates complaints; rules set sanitation, licensing, and scope of practice.

Idaho license categories include cosmetologist, barber, esthetician, nail technician, and electrologist; each has its own training hours and examination.

Licenses must be renewed on the Board's cycle and displayed at the workstation; practicing on an expired license is a violation.

Students must be supervised by a licensed instructor and may not charge or work independently.

Sanitation rules: wash hands before each client, use clean capes and towels per client, disinfect implements at label contact time, and keep a covered waste container.

Business math: gross profit = revenue - cost of goods; service price must cover product, labor, overhead, and profit margin.

Consultation sequence: greet, gather history (previous chemical services, allergies, medications), analyze hair and scalp, discuss options, agree on the plan, then perform.

Ask open questions to reveal goals; use closed questions to confirm specifics like length and timing.

Translate technical terms into client language unless the client uses them; confirm understanding by paraphrasing.

Repeat the agreed price, time, and maintenance plan before starting; document the agreement.

Confidentiality and professionalism: protect client information and avoid discussing other clients.

Refer when a condition is outside your scope or unsafe for the hair; explain the reason and offer an alternative.

Cleaning removes debris; disinfection kills most pathogens on nonporous items with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product; sterilization destroys all microbial life.

Bloodborne pathogens (HBV, HCV, HIV) spread through blood and body fluids; standard precautions require gloves and handwashing and treating all blood as infectious.

Bacteria are single-celled; viruses need a host; fungi cause ringworm and tinea; parasites include lice and mites.

Disinfect implements after every client; porous items (emery boards, cotton) are single-use and discarded.

Disinfectant must be mixed at the label dilution, used at the label contact time, and changed when cloudy or at the label interval.

Keep clean and soiled items separated; use closed containers for soiled linens and covered waste for blood-contaminated items.

Wet hair stretches up to about 50% of its length; dry hair about 20%. Cut wet hair with tension and check the dry result.

Elevation controls graduation: 0 degrees solid form, 45 low elevation, 90 uniform layer, 180 long-layered. Distribution and projection determine where weight builds.

The four haircutting sections are front, crown, sides, and nape; subsection size should match the width of the shears or clipper blade.

Guide (traveling, stationary, or mobile): the first cut establishes the length; keep the guide visible to maintain consistency.

Texturizing removes bulk and adds movement; use point cutting, notching, or slicing and check the result on dry hair.

Sectioning and parting: clean partings and consistent subsection size keep the cut balanced; check the cut from all sides and against the natural fall.

Levels 1-10 measure lightness/darkness; undertone is the warmth left after lightening (red, orange, yellow). Complementary pairs (blue-orange, green-red, violet-yellow) neutralize.

Color categories: temporary (stains cuticle), semipermanent (deposits, no lift), demi-permanent (low-volume developer, deposit), permanent (lift plus deposit).

Developer volumes: 10 deposit only, 20 one level lift, 30 two to three levels, 40 three to four levels (maximum).

Permanent wave (cold wave): pre-wrap, apply thioglycolate (reducing), process, rinse, then neutralize with hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate to re-form disulfide bonds.

Relaxer strength is set by hydroxide concentration and processing time; base the scalp with protective cream, apply to new growth only, and never overlap onto previously relaxed hair.

Record the formula (color, developer, timing) on the client card for repeatability and correction.

Nail anatomy: nail plate (visible body), nail bed (skin beneath), matrix (growth area under the proximal nail fold), cuticle (dead tissue on the plate), eponychium (living skin at the base), hyponychium (seal under the free edge), and lunula (visible matrix).

Nail plate grows about 0.1 mm per day (roughly 3 mm per month); fingernails replace fully in about 4-6 months, toenails in 9-12 months.

Nail shapes: square, squoval, round, oval, and pointed. File in one direction from corner to center to prevent splitting.

Skin layers: epidermis (outer, with stratum corneum), dermis (collagen, elastin, nerves, glands), and subcutaneous layer. Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive.

Facial sequence: cleanse, analyze, exfoliate, extract (if trained), massage, mask, moisturize, protect with SPF. Follow massage direction away from the center of the face.

Contraindications for skin services: open lesions, active infection, recent chemical peel, sunburn, or undiagnosed rash. Refer to a physician rather than treat.

Idaho cosmetology is regulated by the Idaho Board of Cosmetology under the Division of Occupational and Professional Licenses (DOPL); the Board adopts rules that set licensing, sanitation, and scope of practice.

Idaho license categories include cosmetologist, barber, esthetician, nail technician, and electrologist. Each has its own required training hours and examination; verify current hours with the Board before enrolling.

Licenses must be renewed on the Board's cycle and displayed at the workstation; practicing on an expired license is a violation subject to discipline.

Idaho requires a licensed instructor to supervise students; student services are performed in a licensed school on clients who sign consent, and students may not charge or work independently.

Prohibited practices include treating infectious conditions, using unapproved chemicals, and performing services outside the licensed scope; violations can bring fines, suspension, or revocation.

Salon owners must ensure all staff hold valid licenses and that the salon meets sanitation and safety rules.

Professional image includes clean uniform, tied-back hair, short nails, no strong fragrance, and clean tools; appearance communicates sanitation.

Scope of practice: only perform services your license covers; refer medical conditions (persistent scalp lesions, nail infection) to a physician.

Informed consent: explain the service, risks, alternatives, and cost before starting; document the client's agreement.

Ethics: honest pricing, no upselling of unnecessary services, and disclosure of risks such as lightening damage or allergic reaction.

Conflict resolution: listen without defending, acknowledge the concern, restate the agreed service, and offer a remedy within policy; document the outcome.

Continuing education keeps licensees current on new products, sanitation rules, and Idaho Board updates.

Inspect tools before each client: shears sharp, clippers oiled, cords undamaged, and no rust on implements that contact skin.

Wet floors, spilled chemicals, and overloaded outlets are common salon hazards; clean spills immediately and keep cords off walkways.

Know the SDS for every chemical, ventilate the chemical area, and never mix products unless the manufacturer directs it.

Client injury or reaction: stop the service, provide first aid, document the event, and report as required by the Board or physician advice.

Never use products with an expired date or unlabeled containers; keep original labels and SDS accessible.

Professional liability coverage protects against claims; accurate records support defense.

Hair texture: fine, medium, or coarse; density: thin, medium, or thick; porosity: low, normal, or high. Porosity is tested by sliding fingers up a wet strand.

Elasticity test: stretch a wet strand; if it snaps quickly, bonds are weak and chemical service may be unsafe.

Scalp conditions: dry, oily, or normal; note redness, lesions, or flaking and refer if infectious.

Hair growth patterns: cowlicks, whorls, and growth direction affect cut and style; work with the natural fall.

Hair color history: previous lightening, henna, or metallic salts can react with color and perms; ask and strand test.

Client lifestyle and maintenance: time, budget, and home care determine realistic service choices.

Retail price = cost + markup; a common markup is 2x cost (keystone) or higher for retail.

Service price must cover product cost, labor, overhead, and profit; calculate cost per service from product usage.

Gross profit = revenue - cost of goods sold; net profit = gross profit - operating expenses.

Booking and utilization: track service time and processing time to maximize chair utilization without rushing.

Inventory control: rotate stock, check expiration dates, and record usage to control cost.

Client retention: follow-up and rebooking increase lifetime value; measure retention rate monthly.

Surfactants in shampoo lift oils and debris; the hydrophilic head bonds with water and the lipophilic tail bonds with oil.

Conditioners work by cationic attraction to negatively charged hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing static.

Ammonia raises pH and opens the cuticle so color can enter; ammonia-free colors use ethanolamine or similar alkalizers.

Hydrogen peroxide decomposes into water and oxygen; the oxygen lightens melanin and develops color. Stabilizers and pH control the rate.

Acid-balanced products (pH 4.5-5.5) close the cuticle after alkaline services and improve shine.

Hard water minerals (calcium, magnesium) can build up on hair; chelating or clarifying shampoo removes them.

Handwashing with soap and water is required before and after each client and after restroom use; hand sanitizer is not a substitute when hands are visibly soiled.

Disinfectant must be mixed at the label dilution, used at the label contact time, and changed when cloudy or at the label interval.

Single-use items (emery boards, orangewood sticks, cotton) are discarded after one client; porous items cannot be disinfected.

Implements that contact skin or nails must be cleaned then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital-grade product at label contact time.

Blood exposure: wear gloves, stop the service, clean the area, disinfect tools, and dispose of contaminated items per OSHA and Board rules.

Chemicals must be stored in labeled original containers, away from food, and SDS must be accessible.