ID Esthetician cheat sheet
ID Esthetician · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Idaho Cosmetology/Esthetics Law, Rules, and Regulations
Idaho esthetician license requires completion of a board-approved program (minimum 600 hours) and passing both written and practical exams.
Licenses renew annually by the expiration date; late renewal may require a fee and possibly reexamination if lapsed beyond a set period.
All services must be performed in a licensed establishment; home-based salons require separate approval and inspection.
Disinfection and sanitation standards are enforced by the Idaho Board of Cosmetology; violations can lead to fines, suspension, or revocation.
Client records must be kept for a minimum of 3 years, including service details and consent forms.
Estheticians may not diagnose or treat skin diseases; only a physician can prescribe treatments for medical conditions.
Continuing education is not currently required for renewal in Idaho, but check board updates as rules may change.
Advertising must include license number and not use false or misleading claims; Groupon deals must specify limitations.
Infectious disease control: licensees with contagious conditions must refrain from providing services until cleared by a physician.
Infection Control, Sanitation, and Safety Practices
Define cleaning (removing visible debris), disinfection (killing most pathogens on nonporous surfaces), and sterilization (destroying all microorganisms).
Use EPA-registered hospital-grade disinfectant for implements; follow contact time on label (e.g., 10 minutes).
Single-use items (e.g., spatulas, cotton swabs, wax sticks, gloves) must be discarded after each client.
Porous items (e.g., towels, linens, sponges) cannot be disinfected; launder with bleach or discard.
Handwashing with soap and water for at least 20 seconds is required before and after each client and after glove removal.
Wear gloves when contact with blood or body fluids is likely; change gloves between clients and after touching contaminated surfaces.
Sharps (e.g., lancets) must be disposed of in a sharps container immediately after use.
Maintain safety data sheets (SDS) for all chemicals; store chemicals away from client areas and in labeled containers.
Implement standard precautions: treat all blood and body fluids as infectious; use appropriate PPE.
Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin
Epidermis layers (stratum corneum, lucidum, granulosum, spinosum, basale); keratinization occurs as cells move upward.
Dermis contains collagen (strength) and elastin (elasticity); fibroblasts produce these proteins.
Hypodermis (subcutaneous) consists of adipose tissue for insulation and shock absorption.
Skin functions: protection, sensation, thermoregulation, excretion, secretion, absorption, vitamin D synthesis.
Melanocytes produce melanin; number is similar across races, but activity varies.
Sebaceous glands secrete sebum, influenced by hormones; overactivity leads to oily skin and acne.
Sweat glands (eccrine and apocrine) regulate temperature; apocrine glands become active at puberty and are associated with body odor.
Skin aging: intrinsic (genetic) and extrinsic (photoaging) factors; UV exposure breaks down collagen and elastin.
Wound healing phases: inflammatory, proliferative, and remodeling; esthetic treatments should avoid open wounds.
Skin Analysis, Disorders, and Diseases
Skin types: normal, dry, oily, combination, sensitive; determined by sebum production and hydration.
Primary lesions (e.g., macule, papule, vesicle) are initial changes; secondary lesions (e.g., crust, scale, scar) evolve from primary.
Contagious conditions (e.g., impetigo, ringworm, scabies, herpes simplex) require referral to physician and no service.
Contraindications for facial treatments: active infection, open wounds, recent surgery, severe sunburn, allergic reaction.
Skin cancer warning signs: asymmetry, border irregularity, color variation, diameter >6mm, evolving (ABCDE).
Acne grading: mild (comedones), moderate (papules/pustules), severe (cysts/nodules); severe requires medical referral.
Rosacea: chronic inflammation with redness, telangiectasia; avoid triggers like heat, spicy foods, alcohol.
Hyperpigmentation disorders: melasma (hormonal/UV), post-inflammatory (after injury), sun spots; require sun protection.
Use Wood's lamp to assess hydration, sun damage, and bacterial presence (e.g., pseudomonas fluoresces green).
Client Consultation, Contraindications, and Documentation
Conduct a thorough consultation including medical history, medications, allergies, and previous skin treatments.
Contraindications: isotretinoin (Accutane) within 6 months, recent chemical peel or laser, pregnancy (for certain ingredients), active infection.
Document all services, products used, and client responses; keep records for at least 3 years.
Informed consent must be obtained before any treatment; explain risks, benefits, and alternatives.
Patch test 24-48 hours before using new products, especially dyes, fragrances, and chemical peels.
Client confidentiality: do not disclose client information without written consent, except as required by law.
If a client presents with a suspicious lesion, refer to a dermatologist; do not attempt to treat.
Allergies: ask specifically about latex, lidocaine, fragrances, and metals; use hypoallergenic alternatives when possible.
Facial Treatments, Cleansing, Exfoliation, and Extractions
Basic facial steps: consultation, cleansing, skin analysis, exfoliation, extraction (if needed), massage, mask, moisturizer, sun protection.
Cleansing: use appropriate cleanser for skin type; double cleanse for makeup removal.
Exfoliation: mechanical (scrubs, brushes) and chemical (AHAs, BHAs); avoid on inflamed or broken skin.
Extraction: only after softening with steam or warm towel; use gentle pressure with fingers wrapped in tissue or extractor; stop if resistance.
Do not extract pustules or cysts; refer to physician for deep lesions.
Massage: use gentle, upward movements; avoid on clients with severe acne, rosacea, or sunburn.
Mask selection: clay for oily skin, hydrating for dry, soothing for sensitive; leave on per manufacturer instructions.
Sun protection: apply SPF 30+ at the end of every facial; educate client on daily use.
Hair Removal (Waxing, Sugaring, and Threading)
Waxing types: hard wax (stripless) for sensitive areas, soft wax (strip) for larger areas.
Contraindications: isotretinoin use, recent chemical peel, sunburn, open lesions, varicose veins, diabetes (consult physician).
Patch test 24 hours before first waxing; test on small area.
Wax temperature: should not exceed 130°F (54°C) to avoid burns; test on wrist.
Always apply wax in direction of hair growth and remove against; hold skin taut.
Sugaring: water-soluble paste, less irritating, applied against hair growth and removed in direction; can be less painful.
Threading: use sterile thread, twist and roll over hair; avoid on inflamed skin.
Post-care: apply soothing lotion, avoid sun, tight clothing, and heat for 24 hours.
Sanitation: never double-dip into wax; use disposable spatulas and strips.
Chemical Peels, Exfoliation, and Advanced Skin Care
Peel depths: superficial (stratum corneum to papillary dermis), medium (papillary to upper reticular dermis), deep (reticular dermis).
Common superficial peels: glycolic acid (AHA) 20-70%, lactic acid, salicylic acid (BHA) 20-30%, TCA 10-15%.
Contraindications: pregnancy, breastfeeding, isotretinoin use within 6 months, active infection, recent surgery, photosensitivity.
Pre-peel: assess skin type, prepare skin with retinoids or AHA for 2-4 weeks to enhance results.
Post-peel: avoid sun exposure, use gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen; do not pick peeling skin.
Neutralize acid peels (e.g., glycolic) with sodium bicarbonate solution or water according to protocol.
Salicylic acid peels are self-neutralizing; do not use on clients allergic to aspirin.
Complications: hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, scarring, infection; refer to physician if severe.
Advanced treatments: microneedling, LED therapy, microdermabrasion; ensure proper training and certification.
Makeup Application and Lash/Brow Services
Makeup application: start with clean, moisturized skin; use primer, foundation matched to jawline, concealer, powder, blush, eye makeup, lip color.
Sanitation: never double-dip mascara or lip products; use disposable applicators; sharpen pencils before each use.
Lash and brow tinting: patch test 24-48 hours prior; use semi-permanent dye; avoid contact with eyes.
Eyelash extensions: apply with tweezers, isolate natural lashes, dip extension in adhesive, place 1-2mm from base; cure time varies.
Contraindications for lash extensions: allergies to cyanoacrylate, active eye infection, trichotillomania.
Brow shaping: measure using brow bone and eye; tweeze in direction of growth; avoid over-trimming.
Aftercare for lash extensions: avoid water, steam, and oil-based products for 24-48 hours.
Remove makeup thoroughly before lash services; use oil-free remover around extensions.