Chemical Peels, Exfoliation, and Advanced Skin Care
Chemical peel questions test acid types, pH and concentration, depth, neutralization, and contraindications. Idaho estheticians perform superficial peels; medium and deep peels are medical.
Core concepts
- AHAs include glycolic and lactic acid; BHAs include salicylic acid; TCA and Jessner's are stronger. Lower pH and higher free-acid levels increase aggressiveness.
- Superficial peels affect the epidermis; medium peels reach the papillary dermis; deep peels reach the reticular dermis.
- Prep by cleansing and degreasing. Apply evenly, watch for frosting or excessive erythema, neutralize if the product requires it, and finish with post-care and SPF. Follow manufacturer directions.
- Contraindications include active infection, cold sores, recent isotretinoin, sunburn, pregnancy for certain acids, keloid history, and recent waxing or lasers.
Worked example
A client with melasma and a darker Fitzpatrick type requests a glycolic peel. The esthetician should patch test, use a conservative superficial protocol, and counsel about post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; if melasma is extensive, refer. Reasoning: darker skin is at higher risk for PIH, so aggressive peeling is not the first choice.
Traps that cost marks
- Failing to neutralize a peel that requires it.
- Layering acids or increasing strength too quickly.
- Skipping a patch test.
- Peeling over an active cold sore.
- Not warning about sun exposure and picking.