ie-hairdressing-craft-l6 cheat sheet
ie-hairdressing-craft-l6 · Keep the key ideas within reach.
Professional Standards, Ethics and Salon Practice
Scope of practice: a Level 6 hairdresser works autonomously, designs and evaluates services, and refers medical scalp or skin conditions to a GP or dermatologist rather than treating them.
Informed consent is required before any chemical service; record the client's agreement, the products used, timings and patch test result on the client record card.
A patch test for oxidative colour is typically applied 48 hours before the first application and repeated after any change of colour brand or if the client reports a previous reaction.
Professional indemnity insurance and current certification in the country of practice are prerequisites for offering chemical and barbering services.
Contraindication decision rule: if a client presents with a contagious condition (e.g. impetigo, ringworm, head lice), the service is declined and the client is referred; the station is disinfected.
Confidentiality: client records, images and health data are personal data; sharing them requires the client's consent and must comply with local data protection law.
Ethical pricing means quoting before the service, disclosing additional charges for extra product or time, and never performing an unrequested upsell service.
Continuing professional development: log hours of technical training, and keep certificates for new colour lines, straightening systems and barbering tools.
Health, Safety and Hygiene in the Salon
Hand hygiene is the single most effective control: wash with soap and water or use alcohol gel before and after every client, and after removing gloves.
Disinfection hierarchy: clean visible debris first, then apply a hospital-grade disinfectant at the manufacturer's contact time; disinfection fails on soiled tools.
Porous items (nail files, wax spatulas, single-use razors) cannot be reliably disinfected and must be single-use or discarded after a blood contact.
Blood and body-fluid spill rule: wear gloves, absorb with disposable paper, disinfect the area, bag waste as clinical waste, and record the incident.
Electrical safety: portable appliance testing (PAT) at the interval set by local regulation; never use a tool with a damaged flex or a plug that shows scorch marks.
Formaldehyde releasers and persulfates in straightening and bleaching products are respiratory sensitisers; use local exhaust ventilation and keep the SDS on file.
COSHH-style rule: every chemical in the salon must have a safety data sheet, a labelled decanted container, and a documented risk assessment.
Slips and trips: hair clippings are swept after each client, wet floors are signed, and trailing cables are routed away from walkways.
Client Consultation and Hair/Scalp Analysis
Porosity test: a strand of shed hair placed in a bowl of water floats for a low-porosity hair and sinks quickly for high-porosity hair; high porosity takes colour faster and fades faster.
Elasticity test: wet a strand and stretch it; healthy hair extends about 30% and returns, whereas hair that snaps or stays stretched indicates damage and contraindicates strong chemicals.
Density is described as thin, medium or thick by the amount of hair on the scalp; texture is fine, medium or coarse by the diameter of an individual strand.
Scalp types: normal, dry, oily, sensitive; visible flaking with redness is a referral, not a shampoo recommendation.
Growth patterns and whorls affect cutting: a cowlick or double crown requires longer perimeter weight and directional blow-drying rather than a blunt line.
Face shape classification (oval, round, square, heart, oblong, diamond) guides balance; the aim is to soften or offset the widest area rather than to match a trend.
Skin patch test and allergy history, pregnancy, medication (e.g. isotretinoin, anticoagulants) and previous metallic or henna colour must be asked before chemical work.
Shampooing, Conditioning and Scalp Treatments
Shampoo surfactant chemistry: anionic surfactants (SLS, SLES) give strong cleansing and foam; amphoteric and non-ionic co-surfactants reduce irritation for sensitive scalps.
pH matters: the hair shaft and scalp prefer mildly acidic products (around pH 4.5-5.5); high-pH shampoos swell the cuticle and increase colour fade.
Conditioner actives: cationic surfactants (e.g. cetrimonium chloride) bond to the negatively charged hair surface, reducing static and combing friction.
Protein and moisture balance: hydrolysed keratin or wheat protein fills gaps in a damaged cuticle; over-proteinised hair feels stiff and brittle and needs moisture instead.
Scalp treatment selection rule: oily scalp uses a clarifying or clay-based product; dry or flaky scalp uses an emollient, non-foaming cleanser; broken skin is referred.
Massage technique: effleurage and petrissage with fingertips, never nails; pressure is directed from the hairline toward the crown to support circulation.
Water temperature for shampooing is warm, roughly 37-40 degrees Celsius; hot water increases sebum removal and scalp irritation.
Record the shampoo and treatment used, dilution and processing time on the client card to allow consistent repeat services.
Cutting and Hairdressing Techniques
Sectioning geometry: a horizontal section builds weight, a vertical section removes weight, and a diagonal section creates a graduated line; the distribution and elevation determine the result.
Elevation is measured from the natural fall of the hair: 0 degrees is a solid form, 45 degrees is a graduated form, 90 degrees is a uniform layer, and 180 degrees is a long-layered form.
Tension rule: cutting tension should be consistent and light; excessive tension shortens the guide and produces a line that shrinks when the hair dries.
Blunt cutting creates a strong perimeter; point cutting, notching and slicing soften the ends and reduce bulk without changing length.
A one-length bob requires a clean horizontal baseline and a consistent travelling guide; any lift at the nape produces unwanted graduation.
Slide cutting and razor cutting are used on wet hair and are contraindicated on highly porous or chemically damaged hair because they cause further cuticle loss.
Cross-checking at 90 degrees from the opposite parting confirms balance and removes invisible steps in the shape.
Dry cutting is used to refine a finished shape and to check shrinkage on curly hair, which can retract by 20-50% of its wet length.
Colouring and Lightening
The law of colour: the final colour is a combination of the natural contributing pigment, the artificial pigment applied, and the developer strength; underlying pigment must be neutralised, not ignored.
Developer strength: 6% (20 vol) lifts approximately one level and deposits; 9% (30 vol) lifts two to three levels; 12% (40 vol) lifts three to four levels and is not applied to the scalp.
Underlying pigment by depth: level 6-7 is orange, level 5 red-orange, level 4 red, level 3 red-violet; ash, blue and green bases neutralise unwanted warmth.
Strand test is mandatory on a new client or a first application of a new line; record formula, developer, timing and result.
Grey coverage rule: for up to 50% grey use the natural target shade; above 50% use a natural base mixed with the target fashion shade, or a dedicated grey-coverage series.
Lightening: bleach and developer are mixed fresh, never stored, and the scalp must be checked for abrasions; overlapping bleach causes banding and breakage.
Toning after lightening uses a low-volume developer (usually 6% or less) and a shade one to two levels lighter than the target to avoid over-depositing.
Metallic salts from henna, progressive dyes or some medications can react with peroxide; a test strand and strand test are required before lightening such hair.
Perming and Chemical Texture Services
Perm chemistry: the reducing agent (ammonium thioglycolate or glyceryl monothioglycolate) breaks disulfide bonds; the neutraliser (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) rebuilds them in the new shape.
The two-stage process requires a test curl: the solution is processed until the hair forms a firm S-shape, then rinsed thoroughly before neutralising.
Winding tension and rod size determine curl size: a smaller rod gives a tighter curl; the hair must be wound wet and under even tension to avoid fishhooks.
Processing time depends on hair porosity and strength, not on the clock alone; high-porosity hair processes faster and can over-process quickly.
Contraindications: hair previously treated with a lye relaxer, metallic dyes, or hair that fails the elasticity test must not be permed.
Relaxers: sodium hydroxide (lye) has a pH around 12-13 and requires a base or no-base formulation decision; guanidine and ammonium thioglycolate relaxers are alternatives with different pH and processing behaviour.
A relaxer retouch is applied to new growth only; overlapping causes scalp burns and breakage at the demarcation line.
Post-perm care: wait approximately 48-72 hours before shampooing, and avoid strong heat or additional chemical services on the same day.
Styling, Dressing and Finishing
Blow-drying direction controls the finish: drying from root to tip smooths the cuticle, while drying against the growth pattern creates volume and lift.
Heat protection rule: irons and dryers should be used with a heat-protective product, and the temperature should be matched to hair texture; fine or damaged hair tolerates less heat.
Setting: rollers under tension on damp hair produce a firm curl; the direction of winding determines the fall and root direction of the finished style.
Backcombing and backbrushing add volume at the root but damage the cuticle; they are used sparingly and removed gently with a wide-tooth comb and conditioner.
Finishing products: mousse for volume on fine hair, serum for smoothing on coarse hair, wax or pomade for definition and separation, and hairspray for hold.
Balance and proportion: the style should be evaluated from front, profile and back, and the finished shape should complement the face shape identified at consultation.
Updo construction relies on a secure base: a ponytail, padding or pin-curl foundation anchors the shape and prevents slippage during the event.
Barbering and Facial Hair Services
Razor angle rule: a straight razor is held at roughly 30 degrees to the skin, with the blade moving in the direction of hair growth for a close shave.
Shave preparation: warm towel and lather soften the beard and open the follicles; a cold towel after the shave closes the pores and reduces irritation.
Beard shape is defined by the jawline and the neckline; the neckline is set roughly one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple, not on the jaw.
Clipper guards are numbered by the length left in eighths of an inch or in millimetres; a grade 1 leaves about 3 mm and a grade 4 about 13 mm.
Fade terminology: a low fade starts near the ear, a mid fade sits above the ear, and a high fade starts near the temples; the transition must be blended with no visible lines.
Cross-infection control for barbering: a fresh blade per client, disinfected clippers between clients, and no re-use of a cut-throat razor blade.
Moustache and beard trimming follows the natural growth pattern; trimming against the growth can cause ingrown hairs and folliculitis.
Salon Business, Client Care and Communication
Service cost formula: total cost equals product cost plus labour cost plus overhead allocation; price is set by adding the target profit margin to total cost, not by matching a competitor.
Retail margin is calculated as (retail price minus cost price) divided by retail price, expressed as a percentage; a 50% margin means the price is double the cost.
Client retention is measured by rebooking rate: the proportion of clients who book their next appointment before leaving, a leading indicator of future revenue.
Consultation communication: use open questions to gather the brief, closed questions to confirm, and reflective listening to check the client's meaning before recommending.
Complaint handling sequence: listen without interruption, acknowledge the concern, investigate the record card, offer a remedy within policy, and record the outcome.
Retail recommendation rule: recommend only products that address a need identified during consultation, and explain how and when to use them.
Data protection and record keeping: retain client records for the period set by local law and insurance, and store chemical and allergy information securely.
Capacity planning: appointment length should reflect processing time plus application and finishing, otherwise the column overruns and waiting times rise.
Professional Standards, Ethics and Salon Practice
Scope of practice: a Level 6 hairdresser works autonomously, designs and evaluates services, and refers medical scalp or skin conditions to a GP or dermatologist rather than treating them.
Informed consent is required before any chemical service; record the client's agreement, products used, timings and patch test result on the client record card.
A patch test for oxidative colour is typically applied 48 hours before the first application and repeated after any change of colour brand or after a reported reaction.
Professional indemnity insurance and current certification are prerequisites for offering chemical and barbering services in the country of practice.
Contraindication rule: with a contagious condition such as impetigo, ringworm or head lice, the service is declined, the client is referred, and the station is disinfected.
Confidentiality: client records, images and health data are personal data; sharing them requires consent and must comply with local data protection law.
Ethical pricing means quoting before the service, disclosing extra charges for additional product or time, and never performing an unrequested upsell service.
Continuing professional development: log technical training hours and keep certificates for new colour lines, straightening systems and barbering tools.
Health, Safety and Hygiene in the Salon
Hand hygiene is the single most effective control: wash with soap and water or use alcohol gel before and after every client, and after removing gloves.
Disinfection hierarchy: clean visible debris first, then apply a hospital-grade disinfectant for the manufacturer's stated contact time; disinfection fails on soiled tools.
Porous items such as nail files and single-use razors cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded after use or after contact with blood.
Blood and body-fluid spill rule: wear gloves, absorb with disposable paper, disinfect the area, bag waste as clinical waste, and record the incident.
Electrical safety: portable appliance testing at the interval set by local regulation; never use a tool with a damaged flex or a plug showing scorch marks.
Formaldehyde releasers and persulfates in straightening and bleaching products are respiratory sensitisers; use local exhaust ventilation and keep safety data sheets on file.
Every chemical in the salon needs a safety data sheet, a labelled decanted container and a documented risk assessment.
Slips and trips: sweep clippings after each client, sign wet floors, and route trailing cables away from walkways.
Client Consultation and Hair/Scalp Analysis
Porosity test: a shed strand placed in water floats when porosity is low and sinks quickly when porosity is high; high porosity takes colour faster and fades faster.
Elasticity test: wet a strand and stretch it; healthy hair extends about 30% and returns, whereas hair that snaps or stays stretched indicates damage and contraindicates strong chemicals.
Density is described as thin, medium or thick by the amount of hair on the scalp; texture is fine, medium or coarse by the diameter of an individual strand.
Scalp types are normal, dry, oily and sensitive; visible flaking with redness is a referral, not a shampoo recommendation.
Growth patterns and whorls affect cutting: a cowlick or double crown needs longer perimeter weight and directional blow-drying rather than a blunt line.
Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, oblong, diamond) guide balance; the aim is to soften or offset the widest area rather than to follow a trend.
Ask about allergy history, pregnancy, medication such as isotretinoin or anticoagulants, and previous metallic or henna colour before any chemical work.
Shampooing, Conditioning and Scalp Treatments
Shampoo surfactants: anionic surfactants such as SLS and SLES give strong cleansing and foam; amphoteric and non-ionic co-surfactants reduce irritation for sensitive scalps.
pH matters: hair and scalp prefer mildly acidic products around pH 4.5-5.5; high-pH shampoos swell the cuticle and increase colour fade.
Conditioner actives: cationic surfactants such as cetrimonium chloride bond to the negatively charged hair surface, reducing static and combing friction.
Protein and moisture balance: hydrolysed keratin or wheat protein fills gaps in a damaged cuticle; over-proteinised hair feels stiff and brittle and needs moisture instead.
Scalp treatment rule: an oily scalp uses a clarifying or clay-based product, a dry or flaky scalp uses an emollient non-foaming cleanser, and broken skin is referred.
Massage technique: effleurage and petrissage with fingertips, never nails, directed from the hairline toward the crown to support circulation.
Shampoo water should be warm, roughly 37-40 degrees Celsius; hotter water increases sebum removal and scalp irritation.
Record the shampoo and treatment used, dilution and processing time on the client card so repeat services stay consistent.
Cutting and Hairdressing Techniques
Sectioning geometry: a horizontal section builds weight, a vertical section removes weight, and a diagonal section creates a graduated line; distribution and elevation determine the result.
Elevation is measured from natural fall: 0 degrees is a solid form, 45 degrees graduated, 90 degrees uniformly layered, and 180 degrees long-layered.
Tension rule: cutting tension should be consistent and light; excessive tension shortens the guide and the line shrinks when the hair dries.
Blunt cutting creates a strong perimeter; point cutting, notching and slicing soften ends and reduce bulk without changing length.
A one-length bob needs a clean horizontal baseline and a consistent travelling guide; any lift at the nape produces unwanted graduation.
Slide cutting and razor cutting are used on wet hair and are contraindicated on highly porous or chemically damaged hair because they cause further cuticle loss.
Cross-checking at 90 degrees from the opposite parting confirms balance and removes invisible steps in the shape.
Dry cutting refines a finished shape and checks shrinkage on curly hair, which can retract by 20-50% of its wet length.
Colouring and Lightening
The law of colour: the final colour combines the natural contributing pigment, the artificial pigment applied and the developer strength; underlying pigment must be neutralised.
Developer strength: 6% (20 vol) lifts about one level and deposits; 9% (30 vol) lifts two to three levels; 12% (40 vol) lifts three to four levels and is not applied to the scalp.
Underlying pigment by depth: levels 6-7 are orange, level 5 red-orange, level 4 red, and level 3 red-violet; ash, blue and green bases neutralise unwanted warmth.
A strand test is mandatory on a new client or a first application of a new line; record formula, developer, timing and result.
Grey coverage rule: for up to 50% grey use the natural target shade; above 50% mix a natural base with the target fashion shade or use a dedicated grey series.
Bleach and developer are mixed fresh and never stored; check the scalp for abrasions, because overlapping bleach causes banding and breakage.
Toning after lightening uses a low-volume developer, usually 6% or less, and a shade one to two levels lighter than the target to avoid over-depositing.
Metallic salts from henna, progressive dyes or some medications can react with peroxide; a test strand is required before lightening such hair.
Perming and Chemical Texture Services
Perm chemistry: the reducing agent, such as ammonium thioglycolate, breaks disulfide bonds; the neutraliser, such as hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate, rebuilds them in the new shape.
The process requires a test curl: process until the hair forms a firm S-shape, then rinse thoroughly before neutralising.
Winding tension and rod size determine curl size: a smaller rod gives a tighter curl, and hair must be wound wet under even tension to avoid fishhooks.
Processing time depends on porosity and hair strength, not the clock alone; high-porosity hair processes faster and can over-process quickly.
Contraindications: hair previously treated with a lye relaxer or metallic dye, or hair that fails the elasticity test, must not be permed.
Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH around 12-13 and require a base or no-base formulation decision; guanidine and ammonium thioglycolate relaxers behave differently.
A relaxer retouch is applied to new growth only; overlapping causes scalp burns and breakage at the demarcation line.
Post-perm care: wait about 48-72 hours before shampooing and avoid strong heat or additional chemical services on the same day.
Styling, Dressing and Finishing
Blow-drying direction controls the finish: drying from root to tip smooths the cuticle, while drying against the growth pattern creates volume and lift.
Heat protection rule: use a heat-protective product and match temperature to texture; fine or damaged hair tolerates less heat.
Setting: rollers wound under tension on damp hair produce a firm curl, and the winding direction determines the fall and root direction of the style.
Backcombing and backbrushing add root volume but damage the cuticle; use them sparingly and remove them gently with a wide-tooth comb and conditioner.
Finishing products: mousse for volume on fine hair, serum for smoothing coarse hair, wax or pomade for definition, and hairspray for hold.
Balance and proportion: evaluate the style from front, profile and back so the finished shape complements the face shape identified at consultation.
Updo construction needs a secure base; a ponytail, padding or pin-curl foundation anchors the shape and prevents slippage during an event.
Barbering and Facial Hair Services
Razor angle rule: hold a straight razor at roughly 30 degrees to the skin and move the blade in the direction of hair growth for a close shave.
Shave preparation: a warm towel and lather soften the beard and open the follicles; a cold towel afterwards closes the pores and reduces irritation.
Beard shape follows the jawline and neckline; set the neckline about one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple, not on the jaw.
Clipper guards are numbered by the length left, in eighths of an inch or millimetres; a grade 1 leaves about 3 mm and a grade 4 about 13 mm.
Fade terminology: a low fade starts near the ear, a mid fade above the ear, and a high fade near the temples; the transition must show no visible lines.
Cross-infection control: a fresh blade per client, clippers disinfected between clients, and no re-use of a cut-throat razor blade.
Trim moustache and beard in the natural growth direction; trimming against growth can cause ingrown hairs and folliculitis.
Salon Business, Client Care and Communication
Service cost formula: total cost equals product cost plus labour cost plus overhead allocation; price adds the target profit margin to total cost.
Retail margin is (retail price minus cost price) divided by retail price, expressed as a percentage; a 50% margin means the price is double the cost.
Client retention is tracked by rebooking rate, the proportion of clients who book the next appointment before leaving, a leading indicator of future revenue.
Consultation communication: open questions gather the brief, closed questions confirm it, and reflective listening checks the client's meaning before recommending.
Complaint handling sequence: listen without interruption, acknowledge the concern, investigate the record card, offer a remedy within policy, and record the outcome.
Retail recommendation rule: recommend only products that address a need identified during consultation, and explain how and when to use them.
Data protection: retain client records for the period set by local law and insurance, and store chemical and allergy information securely.
Capacity planning: appointment length must cover processing plus application and finishing time, otherwise the column overruns and waiting times rise.
Colouring and Lightening
The law of colour: the final colour combines the natural contributing pigment, the artificial pigment applied and the developer strength; underlying pigment must be neutralised.
Developer strength: 6% (20 vol) lifts about one level and deposits; 9% (30 vol) lifts two to three levels; 12% (40 vol) lifts three to four levels and is not applied to the scalp.
Underlying pigment by depth: levels 6-7 are orange, level 5 red-orange, level 4 red, and level 3 red-violet; ash, blue and green bases neutralise unwanted warmth.
A strand test is mandatory on a new client or a first application of a new line; record formula, developer, timing and result.
Grey coverage rule: for up to 50% grey use the natural target shade; above 50% mix a natural base with the target fashion shade or use a dedicated grey series.
Bleach and developer are mixed fresh and never stored; check the scalp for abrasions, because overlapping bleach causes banding and breakage.
Toning after lightening uses a low-volume developer, usually 6% or less, and a shade one to two levels lighter than the target to avoid over-depositing.
Metallic salts from henna, progressive dyes or some medications can react with peroxide; a test strand is required before lightening such hair.
Cutting and Hairdressing Techniques
Sectioning geometry: a horizontal section builds weight, a vertical section removes weight, and a diagonal section creates a graduated line; distribution and elevation determine the result.
Elevation is measured from natural fall: 0 degrees is a solid form, 45 degrees graduated, 90 degrees uniformly layered, and 180 degrees long-layered.
Tension rule: cutting tension should be consistent and light; excessive tension shortens the guide and the line shrinks when the hair dries.
Blunt cutting creates a strong perimeter; point cutting, notching and slicing soften ends and reduce bulk without changing length.
A one-length bob needs a clean horizontal baseline and a consistent travelling guide; any lift at the nape produces unwanted graduation.
Slide cutting and razor cutting are used on wet hair and are contraindicated on highly porous or chemically damaged hair because they cause further cuticle loss.
Cross-checking at 90 degrees from the opposite parting confirms balance and removes invisible steps in the shape.
Dry cutting refines a finished shape and checks shrinkage on curly hair, which can retract by 20-50% of its wet length.
Perming and Chemical Texture Services
Perm chemistry: the reducing agent, such as ammonium thioglycolate, breaks disulfide bonds; the neutraliser, such as hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate, rebuilds them in the new shape.
The process requires a test curl: process until the hair forms a firm S-shape, then rinse thoroughly before neutralising.
Winding tension and rod size determine curl size: a smaller rod gives a tighter curl, and hair must be wound wet under even tension to avoid fishhooks.
Processing time depends on porosity and hair strength, not the clock alone; high-porosity hair processes faster and can over-process quickly.
Contraindications: hair previously treated with a lye relaxer or metallic dye, or hair that fails the elasticity test, must not be permed.
Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH around 12-13 and require a base or no-base formulation decision; guanidine and ammonium thioglycolate relaxers behave differently.
A relaxer retouch is applied to new growth only; overlapping causes scalp burns and breakage at the demarcation line.
Post-perm care: wait about 48-72 hours before shampooing and avoid strong heat or additional chemical services on the same day.
Client Consultation and Hair/Scalp Analysis
Porosity test: a shed strand placed in water floats when porosity is low and sinks quickly when porosity is high; high porosity takes colour faster and fades faster.
Elasticity test: wet a strand and stretch it; healthy hair extends about 30% and returns, whereas hair that snaps or stays stretched indicates damage and contraindicates strong chemicals.
Density is described as thin, medium or thick by the amount of hair on the scalp; texture is fine, medium or coarse by the diameter of an individual strand.
Scalp types are normal, dry, oily and sensitive; visible flaking with redness is a referral, not a shampoo recommendation.
Growth patterns and whorls affect cutting: a cowlick or double crown needs longer perimeter weight and directional blow-drying rather than a blunt line.
Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, oblong, diamond) guide balance; the aim is to soften or offset the widest area rather than to follow a trend.
Ask about allergy history, pregnancy, medication such as isotretinoin or anticoagulants, and previous metallic or henna colour before any chemical work.
Barbering and Facial Hair Services
Razor angle rule: hold a straight razor at roughly 30 degrees to the skin and move the blade in the direction of hair growth for a close shave.
Shave preparation: a warm towel and lather soften the beard and open the follicles; a cold towel afterwards closes the pores and reduces irritation.
Beard shape follows the jawline and neckline; set the neckline about one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple, not on the jaw.
Clipper guards are numbered by the length left, in eighths of an inch or millimetres; a grade 1 leaves about 3 mm and a grade 4 about 13 mm.
Fade terminology: a low fade starts near the ear, a mid fade above the ear, and a high fade near the temples; the transition must show no visible lines.
Cross-infection control: a fresh blade per client, clippers disinfected between clients, and no re-use of a cut-throat razor blade.
Trim moustache and beard in the natural growth direction; trimming against growth can cause ingrown hairs and folliculitis.
Shampooing, Conditioning and Scalp Treatments
Shampoo surfactants: anionic surfactants such as SLS and SLES give strong cleansing and foam; amphoteric and non-ionic co-surfactants reduce irritation for sensitive scalps.
pH matters: hair and scalp prefer mildly acidic products around pH 4.5-5.5; high-pH shampoos swell the cuticle and increase colour fade.
Conditioner actives: cationic surfactants such as cetrimonium chloride bond to the negatively charged hair surface, reducing static and combing friction.
Protein and moisture balance: hydrolysed keratin or wheat protein fills gaps in a damaged cuticle; over-proteinised hair feels stiff and brittle and needs moisture instead.
Scalp treatment rule: an oily scalp uses a clarifying or clay-based product, a dry or flaky scalp uses an emollient non-foaming cleanser, and broken skin is referred.
Massage technique: effleurage and petrissage with fingertips, never nails, directed from the hairline toward the crown to support circulation.
Shampoo water should be warm, roughly 37-40 degrees Celsius; hotter water increases sebum removal and scalp irritation.
Record the shampoo and treatment used, dilution and processing time on the client card so repeat services stay consistent.
Styling, Dressing and Finishing
Blow-drying direction controls the finish: drying from root to tip smooths the cuticle, while drying against the growth pattern creates volume and lift.
Heat protection rule: use a heat-protective product and match temperature to texture; fine or damaged hair tolerates less heat.
Setting: rollers wound under tension on damp hair produce a firm curl, and the winding direction determines the fall and root direction of the style.
Backcombing and backbrushing add root volume but damage the cuticle; use them sparingly and remove them gently with a wide-tooth comb and conditioner.
Finishing products: mousse for volume on fine hair, serum for smoothing coarse hair, wax or pomade for definition, and hairspray for hold.
Balance and proportion: evaluate the style from front, profile and back so the finished shape complements the face shape identified at consultation.
Updo construction needs a secure base; a ponytail, padding or pin-curl foundation anchors the shape and prevents slippage during an event.
Salon Business, Client Care and Communication
Service cost formula: total cost equals product cost plus labour cost plus overhead allocation; price adds the target profit margin to total cost.
Retail margin is (retail price minus cost price) divided by retail price, expressed as a percentage; a 50% margin means the price is double the cost.
Client retention is tracked by rebooking rate, the proportion of clients who book the next appointment before leaving, a leading indicator of future revenue.
Consultation communication: open questions gather the brief, closed questions confirm it, and reflective listening checks the client's meaning before recommending.
Complaint handling sequence: listen without interruption, acknowledge the concern, investigate the record card, offer a remedy within policy, and record the outcome.
Retail recommendation rule: recommend only products that address a need identified during consultation, and explain how and when to use them.
Data protection: retain client records for the period set by local law and insurance, and store chemical and allergy information securely.
Capacity planning: appointment length must cover processing plus application and finishing time, otherwise the column overruns and waiting times rise.
Health, Safety and Hygiene in the Salon
Hand hygiene is the single most effective control: wash with soap and water or use alcohol gel before and after every client, and after removing gloves.
Disinfection hierarchy: clean visible debris first, then apply a hospital-grade disinfectant for the manufacturer's stated contact time; disinfection fails on soiled tools.
Porous items such as nail files and single-use razors cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded after use or after contact with blood.
Blood and body-fluid spill rule: wear gloves, absorb with disposable paper, disinfect the area, bag waste as clinical waste, and record the incident.
Electrical safety: portable appliance testing at the interval set by local regulation; never use a tool with a damaged flex or a plug showing scorch marks.
Formaldehyde releasers and persulfates in straightening and bleaching products are respiratory sensitisers; use local exhaust ventilation and keep safety data sheets on file.
Every chemical in the salon needs a safety data sheet, a labelled decanted container and a documented risk assessment.
Slips and trips: sweep clippings after each client, sign wet floors, and route trailing cables away from walkways.