ie-hairdressing-craft-l6 study materials
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ie-hairdressing-craft-l6 cheat sheet

ie-hairdressing-craft-l6 · Keep the key ideas within reach.

Quick reference

Professional Standards, Ethics and Salon Practice

  • Scope of practice: a Level 6 hairdresser works autonomously, designs and evaluates services, and refers medical scalp or skin conditions to a GP or dermatologist rather than treating them.

  • Informed consent is required before any chemical service; record the client's agreement, the products used, timings and patch test result on the client record card.

  • A patch test for oxidative colour is typically applied 48 hours before the first application and repeated after any change of colour brand or if the client reports a previous reaction.

  • Professional indemnity insurance and current certification in the country of practice are prerequisites for offering chemical and barbering services.

  • Contraindication decision rule: if a client presents with a contagious condition (e.g. impetigo, ringworm, head lice), the service is declined and the client is referred; the station is disinfected.

  • Confidentiality: client records, images and health data are personal data; sharing them requires the client's consent and must comply with local data protection law.

  • Ethical pricing means quoting before the service, disclosing additional charges for extra product or time, and never performing an unrequested upsell service.

  • Continuing professional development: log hours of technical training, and keep certificates for new colour lines, straightening systems and barbering tools.

Quick reference

Health, Safety and Hygiene in the Salon

  • Hand hygiene is the single most effective control: wash with soap and water or use alcohol gel before and after every client, and after removing gloves.

  • Disinfection hierarchy: clean visible debris first, then apply a hospital-grade disinfectant at the manufacturer's contact time; disinfection fails on soiled tools.

  • Porous items (nail files, wax spatulas, single-use razors) cannot be reliably disinfected and must be single-use or discarded after a blood contact.

  • Blood and body-fluid spill rule: wear gloves, absorb with disposable paper, disinfect the area, bag waste as clinical waste, and record the incident.

  • Electrical safety: portable appliance testing (PAT) at the interval set by local regulation; never use a tool with a damaged flex or a plug that shows scorch marks.

  • Formaldehyde releasers and persulfates in straightening and bleaching products are respiratory sensitisers; use local exhaust ventilation and keep the SDS on file.

  • COSHH-style rule: every chemical in the salon must have a safety data sheet, a labelled decanted container, and a documented risk assessment.

  • Slips and trips: hair clippings are swept after each client, wet floors are signed, and trailing cables are routed away from walkways.

Quick reference

Client Consultation and Hair/Scalp Analysis

  • Porosity test: a strand of shed hair placed in a bowl of water floats for a low-porosity hair and sinks quickly for high-porosity hair; high porosity takes colour faster and fades faster.

  • Elasticity test: wet a strand and stretch it; healthy hair extends about 30% and returns, whereas hair that snaps or stays stretched indicates damage and contraindicates strong chemicals.

  • Density is described as thin, medium or thick by the amount of hair on the scalp; texture is fine, medium or coarse by the diameter of an individual strand.

  • Scalp types: normal, dry, oily, sensitive; visible flaking with redness is a referral, not a shampoo recommendation.

  • Growth patterns and whorls affect cutting: a cowlick or double crown requires longer perimeter weight and directional blow-drying rather than a blunt line.

  • Face shape classification (oval, round, square, heart, oblong, diamond) guides balance; the aim is to soften or offset the widest area rather than to match a trend.

  • Skin patch test and allergy history, pregnancy, medication (e.g. isotretinoin, anticoagulants) and previous metallic or henna colour must be asked before chemical work.

Quick reference

Shampooing, Conditioning and Scalp Treatments

  • Shampoo surfactant chemistry: anionic surfactants (SLS, SLES) give strong cleansing and foam; amphoteric and non-ionic co-surfactants reduce irritation for sensitive scalps.

  • pH matters: the hair shaft and scalp prefer mildly acidic products (around pH 4.5-5.5); high-pH shampoos swell the cuticle and increase colour fade.

  • Conditioner actives: cationic surfactants (e.g. cetrimonium chloride) bond to the negatively charged hair surface, reducing static and combing friction.

  • Protein and moisture balance: hydrolysed keratin or wheat protein fills gaps in a damaged cuticle; over-proteinised hair feels stiff and brittle and needs moisture instead.

  • Scalp treatment selection rule: oily scalp uses a clarifying or clay-based product; dry or flaky scalp uses an emollient, non-foaming cleanser; broken skin is referred.

  • Massage technique: effleurage and petrissage with fingertips, never nails; pressure is directed from the hairline toward the crown to support circulation.

  • Water temperature for shampooing is warm, roughly 37-40 degrees Celsius; hot water increases sebum removal and scalp irritation.

  • Record the shampoo and treatment used, dilution and processing time on the client card to allow consistent repeat services.

Quick reference

Cutting and Hairdressing Techniques

  • Sectioning geometry: a horizontal section builds weight, a vertical section removes weight, and a diagonal section creates a graduated line; the distribution and elevation determine the result.

  • Elevation is measured from the natural fall of the hair: 0 degrees is a solid form, 45 degrees is a graduated form, 90 degrees is a uniform layer, and 180 degrees is a long-layered form.

  • Tension rule: cutting tension should be consistent and light; excessive tension shortens the guide and produces a line that shrinks when the hair dries.

  • Blunt cutting creates a strong perimeter; point cutting, notching and slicing soften the ends and reduce bulk without changing length.

  • A one-length bob requires a clean horizontal baseline and a consistent travelling guide; any lift at the nape produces unwanted graduation.

  • Slide cutting and razor cutting are used on wet hair and are contraindicated on highly porous or chemically damaged hair because they cause further cuticle loss.

  • Cross-checking at 90 degrees from the opposite parting confirms balance and removes invisible steps in the shape.

  • Dry cutting is used to refine a finished shape and to check shrinkage on curly hair, which can retract by 20-50% of its wet length.

Quick reference

Colouring and Lightening

  • The law of colour: the final colour is a combination of the natural contributing pigment, the artificial pigment applied, and the developer strength; underlying pigment must be neutralised, not ignored.

  • Developer strength: 6% (20 vol) lifts approximately one level and deposits; 9% (30 vol) lifts two to three levels; 12% (40 vol) lifts three to four levels and is not applied to the scalp.

  • Underlying pigment by depth: level 6-7 is orange, level 5 red-orange, level 4 red, level 3 red-violet; ash, blue and green bases neutralise unwanted warmth.

  • Strand test is mandatory on a new client or a first application of a new line; record formula, developer, timing and result.

  • Grey coverage rule: for up to 50% grey use the natural target shade; above 50% use a natural base mixed with the target fashion shade, or a dedicated grey-coverage series.

  • Lightening: bleach and developer are mixed fresh, never stored, and the scalp must be checked for abrasions; overlapping bleach causes banding and breakage.

  • Toning after lightening uses a low-volume developer (usually 6% or less) and a shade one to two levels lighter than the target to avoid over-depositing.

  • Metallic salts from henna, progressive dyes or some medications can react with peroxide; a test strand and strand test are required before lightening such hair.

Quick reference

Perming and Chemical Texture Services

  • Perm chemistry: the reducing agent (ammonium thioglycolate or glyceryl monothioglycolate) breaks disulfide bonds; the neutraliser (hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate) rebuilds them in the new shape.

  • The two-stage process requires a test curl: the solution is processed until the hair forms a firm S-shape, then rinsed thoroughly before neutralising.

  • Winding tension and rod size determine curl size: a smaller rod gives a tighter curl; the hair must be wound wet and under even tension to avoid fishhooks.

  • Processing time depends on hair porosity and strength, not on the clock alone; high-porosity hair processes faster and can over-process quickly.

  • Contraindications: hair previously treated with a lye relaxer, metallic dyes, or hair that fails the elasticity test must not be permed.

  • Relaxers: sodium hydroxide (lye) has a pH around 12-13 and requires a base or no-base formulation decision; guanidine and ammonium thioglycolate relaxers are alternatives with different pH and processing behaviour.

  • A relaxer retouch is applied to new growth only; overlapping causes scalp burns and breakage at the demarcation line.

  • Post-perm care: wait approximately 48-72 hours before shampooing, and avoid strong heat or additional chemical services on the same day.

Quick reference

Styling, Dressing and Finishing

  • Blow-drying direction controls the finish: drying from root to tip smooths the cuticle, while drying against the growth pattern creates volume and lift.

  • Heat protection rule: irons and dryers should be used with a heat-protective product, and the temperature should be matched to hair texture; fine or damaged hair tolerates less heat.

  • Setting: rollers under tension on damp hair produce a firm curl; the direction of winding determines the fall and root direction of the finished style.

  • Backcombing and backbrushing add volume at the root but damage the cuticle; they are used sparingly and removed gently with a wide-tooth comb and conditioner.

  • Finishing products: mousse for volume on fine hair, serum for smoothing on coarse hair, wax or pomade for definition and separation, and hairspray for hold.

  • Balance and proportion: the style should be evaluated from front, profile and back, and the finished shape should complement the face shape identified at consultation.

  • Updo construction relies on a secure base: a ponytail, padding or pin-curl foundation anchors the shape and prevents slippage during the event.

Quick reference

Barbering and Facial Hair Services

  • Razor angle rule: a straight razor is held at roughly 30 degrees to the skin, with the blade moving in the direction of hair growth for a close shave.

  • Shave preparation: warm towel and lather soften the beard and open the follicles; a cold towel after the shave closes the pores and reduces irritation.

  • Beard shape is defined by the jawline and the neckline; the neckline is set roughly one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple, not on the jaw.

  • Clipper guards are numbered by the length left in eighths of an inch or in millimetres; a grade 1 leaves about 3 mm and a grade 4 about 13 mm.

  • Fade terminology: a low fade starts near the ear, a mid fade sits above the ear, and a high fade starts near the temples; the transition must be blended with no visible lines.

  • Cross-infection control for barbering: a fresh blade per client, disinfected clippers between clients, and no re-use of a cut-throat razor blade.

  • Moustache and beard trimming follows the natural growth pattern; trimming against the growth can cause ingrown hairs and folliculitis.

Quick reference

Salon Business, Client Care and Communication

  • Service cost formula: total cost equals product cost plus labour cost plus overhead allocation; price is set by adding the target profit margin to total cost, not by matching a competitor.

  • Retail margin is calculated as (retail price minus cost price) divided by retail price, expressed as a percentage; a 50% margin means the price is double the cost.

  • Client retention is measured by rebooking rate: the proportion of clients who book their next appointment before leaving, a leading indicator of future revenue.

  • Consultation communication: use open questions to gather the brief, closed questions to confirm, and reflective listening to check the client's meaning before recommending.

  • Complaint handling sequence: listen without interruption, acknowledge the concern, investigate the record card, offer a remedy within policy, and record the outcome.

  • Retail recommendation rule: recommend only products that address a need identified during consultation, and explain how and when to use them.

  • Data protection and record keeping: retain client records for the period set by local law and insurance, and store chemical and allergy information securely.

  • Capacity planning: appointment length should reflect processing time plus application and finishing, otherwise the column overruns and waiting times rise.

Quick reference

Professional Standards, Ethics and Salon Practice

  • Scope of practice: a Level 6 hairdresser works autonomously, designs and evaluates services, and refers medical scalp or skin conditions to a GP or dermatologist rather than treating them.

  • Informed consent is required before any chemical service; record the client's agreement, products used, timings and patch test result on the client record card.

  • A patch test for oxidative colour is typically applied 48 hours before the first application and repeated after any change of colour brand or after a reported reaction.

  • Professional indemnity insurance and current certification are prerequisites for offering chemical and barbering services in the country of practice.

  • Contraindication rule: with a contagious condition such as impetigo, ringworm or head lice, the service is declined, the client is referred, and the station is disinfected.

  • Confidentiality: client records, images and health data are personal data; sharing them requires consent and must comply with local data protection law.

  • Ethical pricing means quoting before the service, disclosing extra charges for additional product or time, and never performing an unrequested upsell service.

  • Continuing professional development: log technical training hours and keep certificates for new colour lines, straightening systems and barbering tools.

Quick reference

Health, Safety and Hygiene in the Salon

  • Hand hygiene is the single most effective control: wash with soap and water or use alcohol gel before and after every client, and after removing gloves.

  • Disinfection hierarchy: clean visible debris first, then apply a hospital-grade disinfectant for the manufacturer's stated contact time; disinfection fails on soiled tools.

  • Porous items such as nail files and single-use razors cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded after use or after contact with blood.

  • Blood and body-fluid spill rule: wear gloves, absorb with disposable paper, disinfect the area, bag waste as clinical waste, and record the incident.

  • Electrical safety: portable appliance testing at the interval set by local regulation; never use a tool with a damaged flex or a plug showing scorch marks.

  • Formaldehyde releasers and persulfates in straightening and bleaching products are respiratory sensitisers; use local exhaust ventilation and keep safety data sheets on file.

  • Every chemical in the salon needs a safety data sheet, a labelled decanted container and a documented risk assessment.

  • Slips and trips: sweep clippings after each client, sign wet floors, and route trailing cables away from walkways.

Quick reference

Client Consultation and Hair/Scalp Analysis

  • Porosity test: a shed strand placed in water floats when porosity is low and sinks quickly when porosity is high; high porosity takes colour faster and fades faster.

  • Elasticity test: wet a strand and stretch it; healthy hair extends about 30% and returns, whereas hair that snaps or stays stretched indicates damage and contraindicates strong chemicals.

  • Density is described as thin, medium or thick by the amount of hair on the scalp; texture is fine, medium or coarse by the diameter of an individual strand.

  • Scalp types are normal, dry, oily and sensitive; visible flaking with redness is a referral, not a shampoo recommendation.

  • Growth patterns and whorls affect cutting: a cowlick or double crown needs longer perimeter weight and directional blow-drying rather than a blunt line.

  • Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, oblong, diamond) guide balance; the aim is to soften or offset the widest area rather than to follow a trend.

  • Ask about allergy history, pregnancy, medication such as isotretinoin or anticoagulants, and previous metallic or henna colour before any chemical work.

Quick reference

Shampooing, Conditioning and Scalp Treatments

  • Shampoo surfactants: anionic surfactants such as SLS and SLES give strong cleansing and foam; amphoteric and non-ionic co-surfactants reduce irritation for sensitive scalps.

  • pH matters: hair and scalp prefer mildly acidic products around pH 4.5-5.5; high-pH shampoos swell the cuticle and increase colour fade.

  • Conditioner actives: cationic surfactants such as cetrimonium chloride bond to the negatively charged hair surface, reducing static and combing friction.

  • Protein and moisture balance: hydrolysed keratin or wheat protein fills gaps in a damaged cuticle; over-proteinised hair feels stiff and brittle and needs moisture instead.

  • Scalp treatment rule: an oily scalp uses a clarifying or clay-based product, a dry or flaky scalp uses an emollient non-foaming cleanser, and broken skin is referred.

  • Massage technique: effleurage and petrissage with fingertips, never nails, directed from the hairline toward the crown to support circulation.

  • Shampoo water should be warm, roughly 37-40 degrees Celsius; hotter water increases sebum removal and scalp irritation.

  • Record the shampoo and treatment used, dilution and processing time on the client card so repeat services stay consistent.

Quick reference

Cutting and Hairdressing Techniques

  • Sectioning geometry: a horizontal section builds weight, a vertical section removes weight, and a diagonal section creates a graduated line; distribution and elevation determine the result.

  • Elevation is measured from natural fall: 0 degrees is a solid form, 45 degrees graduated, 90 degrees uniformly layered, and 180 degrees long-layered.

  • Tension rule: cutting tension should be consistent and light; excessive tension shortens the guide and the line shrinks when the hair dries.

  • Blunt cutting creates a strong perimeter; point cutting, notching and slicing soften ends and reduce bulk without changing length.

  • A one-length bob needs a clean horizontal baseline and a consistent travelling guide; any lift at the nape produces unwanted graduation.

  • Slide cutting and razor cutting are used on wet hair and are contraindicated on highly porous or chemically damaged hair because they cause further cuticle loss.

  • Cross-checking at 90 degrees from the opposite parting confirms balance and removes invisible steps in the shape.

  • Dry cutting refines a finished shape and checks shrinkage on curly hair, which can retract by 20-50% of its wet length.

Quick reference

Colouring and Lightening

  • The law of colour: the final colour combines the natural contributing pigment, the artificial pigment applied and the developer strength; underlying pigment must be neutralised.

  • Developer strength: 6% (20 vol) lifts about one level and deposits; 9% (30 vol) lifts two to three levels; 12% (40 vol) lifts three to four levels and is not applied to the scalp.

  • Underlying pigment by depth: levels 6-7 are orange, level 5 red-orange, level 4 red, and level 3 red-violet; ash, blue and green bases neutralise unwanted warmth.

  • A strand test is mandatory on a new client or a first application of a new line; record formula, developer, timing and result.

  • Grey coverage rule: for up to 50% grey use the natural target shade; above 50% mix a natural base with the target fashion shade or use a dedicated grey series.

  • Bleach and developer are mixed fresh and never stored; check the scalp for abrasions, because overlapping bleach causes banding and breakage.

  • Toning after lightening uses a low-volume developer, usually 6% or less, and a shade one to two levels lighter than the target to avoid over-depositing.

  • Metallic salts from henna, progressive dyes or some medications can react with peroxide; a test strand is required before lightening such hair.

Quick reference

Perming and Chemical Texture Services

  • Perm chemistry: the reducing agent, such as ammonium thioglycolate, breaks disulfide bonds; the neutraliser, such as hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate, rebuilds them in the new shape.

  • The process requires a test curl: process until the hair forms a firm S-shape, then rinse thoroughly before neutralising.

  • Winding tension and rod size determine curl size: a smaller rod gives a tighter curl, and hair must be wound wet under even tension to avoid fishhooks.

  • Processing time depends on porosity and hair strength, not the clock alone; high-porosity hair processes faster and can over-process quickly.

  • Contraindications: hair previously treated with a lye relaxer or metallic dye, or hair that fails the elasticity test, must not be permed.

  • Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH around 12-13 and require a base or no-base formulation decision; guanidine and ammonium thioglycolate relaxers behave differently.

  • A relaxer retouch is applied to new growth only; overlapping causes scalp burns and breakage at the demarcation line.

  • Post-perm care: wait about 48-72 hours before shampooing and avoid strong heat or additional chemical services on the same day.

Quick reference

Styling, Dressing and Finishing

  • Blow-drying direction controls the finish: drying from root to tip smooths the cuticle, while drying against the growth pattern creates volume and lift.

  • Heat protection rule: use a heat-protective product and match temperature to texture; fine or damaged hair tolerates less heat.

  • Setting: rollers wound under tension on damp hair produce a firm curl, and the winding direction determines the fall and root direction of the style.

  • Backcombing and backbrushing add root volume but damage the cuticle; use them sparingly and remove them gently with a wide-tooth comb and conditioner.

  • Finishing products: mousse for volume on fine hair, serum for smoothing coarse hair, wax or pomade for definition, and hairspray for hold.

  • Balance and proportion: evaluate the style from front, profile and back so the finished shape complements the face shape identified at consultation.

  • Updo construction needs a secure base; a ponytail, padding or pin-curl foundation anchors the shape and prevents slippage during an event.

Quick reference

Barbering and Facial Hair Services

  • Razor angle rule: hold a straight razor at roughly 30 degrees to the skin and move the blade in the direction of hair growth for a close shave.

  • Shave preparation: a warm towel and lather soften the beard and open the follicles; a cold towel afterwards closes the pores and reduces irritation.

  • Beard shape follows the jawline and neckline; set the neckline about one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple, not on the jaw.

  • Clipper guards are numbered by the length left, in eighths of an inch or millimetres; a grade 1 leaves about 3 mm and a grade 4 about 13 mm.

  • Fade terminology: a low fade starts near the ear, a mid fade above the ear, and a high fade near the temples; the transition must show no visible lines.

  • Cross-infection control: a fresh blade per client, clippers disinfected between clients, and no re-use of a cut-throat razor blade.

  • Trim moustache and beard in the natural growth direction; trimming against growth can cause ingrown hairs and folliculitis.

Quick reference

Salon Business, Client Care and Communication

  • Service cost formula: total cost equals product cost plus labour cost plus overhead allocation; price adds the target profit margin to total cost.

  • Retail margin is (retail price minus cost price) divided by retail price, expressed as a percentage; a 50% margin means the price is double the cost.

  • Client retention is tracked by rebooking rate, the proportion of clients who book the next appointment before leaving, a leading indicator of future revenue.

  • Consultation communication: open questions gather the brief, closed questions confirm it, and reflective listening checks the client's meaning before recommending.

  • Complaint handling sequence: listen without interruption, acknowledge the concern, investigate the record card, offer a remedy within policy, and record the outcome.

  • Retail recommendation rule: recommend only products that address a need identified during consultation, and explain how and when to use them.

  • Data protection: retain client records for the period set by local law and insurance, and store chemical and allergy information securely.

  • Capacity planning: appointment length must cover processing plus application and finishing time, otherwise the column overruns and waiting times rise.

Quick reference

Colouring and Lightening

  • The law of colour: the final colour combines the natural contributing pigment, the artificial pigment applied and the developer strength; underlying pigment must be neutralised.

  • Developer strength: 6% (20 vol) lifts about one level and deposits; 9% (30 vol) lifts two to three levels; 12% (40 vol) lifts three to four levels and is not applied to the scalp.

  • Underlying pigment by depth: levels 6-7 are orange, level 5 red-orange, level 4 red, and level 3 red-violet; ash, blue and green bases neutralise unwanted warmth.

  • A strand test is mandatory on a new client or a first application of a new line; record formula, developer, timing and result.

  • Grey coverage rule: for up to 50% grey use the natural target shade; above 50% mix a natural base with the target fashion shade or use a dedicated grey series.

  • Bleach and developer are mixed fresh and never stored; check the scalp for abrasions, because overlapping bleach causes banding and breakage.

  • Toning after lightening uses a low-volume developer, usually 6% or less, and a shade one to two levels lighter than the target to avoid over-depositing.

  • Metallic salts from henna, progressive dyes or some medications can react with peroxide; a test strand is required before lightening such hair.

Quick reference

Cutting and Hairdressing Techniques

  • Sectioning geometry: a horizontal section builds weight, a vertical section removes weight, and a diagonal section creates a graduated line; distribution and elevation determine the result.

  • Elevation is measured from natural fall: 0 degrees is a solid form, 45 degrees graduated, 90 degrees uniformly layered, and 180 degrees long-layered.

  • Tension rule: cutting tension should be consistent and light; excessive tension shortens the guide and the line shrinks when the hair dries.

  • Blunt cutting creates a strong perimeter; point cutting, notching and slicing soften ends and reduce bulk without changing length.

  • A one-length bob needs a clean horizontal baseline and a consistent travelling guide; any lift at the nape produces unwanted graduation.

  • Slide cutting and razor cutting are used on wet hair and are contraindicated on highly porous or chemically damaged hair because they cause further cuticle loss.

  • Cross-checking at 90 degrees from the opposite parting confirms balance and removes invisible steps in the shape.

  • Dry cutting refines a finished shape and checks shrinkage on curly hair, which can retract by 20-50% of its wet length.

Quick reference

Perming and Chemical Texture Services

  • Perm chemistry: the reducing agent, such as ammonium thioglycolate, breaks disulfide bonds; the neutraliser, such as hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate, rebuilds them in the new shape.

  • The process requires a test curl: process until the hair forms a firm S-shape, then rinse thoroughly before neutralising.

  • Winding tension and rod size determine curl size: a smaller rod gives a tighter curl, and hair must be wound wet under even tension to avoid fishhooks.

  • Processing time depends on porosity and hair strength, not the clock alone; high-porosity hair processes faster and can over-process quickly.

  • Contraindications: hair previously treated with a lye relaxer or metallic dye, or hair that fails the elasticity test, must not be permed.

  • Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH around 12-13 and require a base or no-base formulation decision; guanidine and ammonium thioglycolate relaxers behave differently.

  • A relaxer retouch is applied to new growth only; overlapping causes scalp burns and breakage at the demarcation line.

  • Post-perm care: wait about 48-72 hours before shampooing and avoid strong heat or additional chemical services on the same day.

Quick reference

Client Consultation and Hair/Scalp Analysis

  • Porosity test: a shed strand placed in water floats when porosity is low and sinks quickly when porosity is high; high porosity takes colour faster and fades faster.

  • Elasticity test: wet a strand and stretch it; healthy hair extends about 30% and returns, whereas hair that snaps or stays stretched indicates damage and contraindicates strong chemicals.

  • Density is described as thin, medium or thick by the amount of hair on the scalp; texture is fine, medium or coarse by the diameter of an individual strand.

  • Scalp types are normal, dry, oily and sensitive; visible flaking with redness is a referral, not a shampoo recommendation.

  • Growth patterns and whorls affect cutting: a cowlick or double crown needs longer perimeter weight and directional blow-drying rather than a blunt line.

  • Face shapes (oval, round, square, heart, oblong, diamond) guide balance; the aim is to soften or offset the widest area rather than to follow a trend.

  • Ask about allergy history, pregnancy, medication such as isotretinoin or anticoagulants, and previous metallic or henna colour before any chemical work.

Quick reference

Barbering and Facial Hair Services

  • Razor angle rule: hold a straight razor at roughly 30 degrees to the skin and move the blade in the direction of hair growth for a close shave.

  • Shave preparation: a warm towel and lather soften the beard and open the follicles; a cold towel afterwards closes the pores and reduces irritation.

  • Beard shape follows the jawline and neckline; set the neckline about one to two finger widths above the Adam's apple, not on the jaw.

  • Clipper guards are numbered by the length left, in eighths of an inch or millimetres; a grade 1 leaves about 3 mm and a grade 4 about 13 mm.

  • Fade terminology: a low fade starts near the ear, a mid fade above the ear, and a high fade near the temples; the transition must show no visible lines.

  • Cross-infection control: a fresh blade per client, clippers disinfected between clients, and no re-use of a cut-throat razor blade.

  • Trim moustache and beard in the natural growth direction; trimming against growth can cause ingrown hairs and folliculitis.

Quick reference

Shampooing, Conditioning and Scalp Treatments

  • Shampoo surfactants: anionic surfactants such as SLS and SLES give strong cleansing and foam; amphoteric and non-ionic co-surfactants reduce irritation for sensitive scalps.

  • pH matters: hair and scalp prefer mildly acidic products around pH 4.5-5.5; high-pH shampoos swell the cuticle and increase colour fade.

  • Conditioner actives: cationic surfactants such as cetrimonium chloride bond to the negatively charged hair surface, reducing static and combing friction.

  • Protein and moisture balance: hydrolysed keratin or wheat protein fills gaps in a damaged cuticle; over-proteinised hair feels stiff and brittle and needs moisture instead.

  • Scalp treatment rule: an oily scalp uses a clarifying or clay-based product, a dry or flaky scalp uses an emollient non-foaming cleanser, and broken skin is referred.

  • Massage technique: effleurage and petrissage with fingertips, never nails, directed from the hairline toward the crown to support circulation.

  • Shampoo water should be warm, roughly 37-40 degrees Celsius; hotter water increases sebum removal and scalp irritation.

  • Record the shampoo and treatment used, dilution and processing time on the client card so repeat services stay consistent.

Quick reference

Styling, Dressing and Finishing

  • Blow-drying direction controls the finish: drying from root to tip smooths the cuticle, while drying against the growth pattern creates volume and lift.

  • Heat protection rule: use a heat-protective product and match temperature to texture; fine or damaged hair tolerates less heat.

  • Setting: rollers wound under tension on damp hair produce a firm curl, and the winding direction determines the fall and root direction of the style.

  • Backcombing and backbrushing add root volume but damage the cuticle; use them sparingly and remove them gently with a wide-tooth comb and conditioner.

  • Finishing products: mousse for volume on fine hair, serum for smoothing coarse hair, wax or pomade for definition, and hairspray for hold.

  • Balance and proportion: evaluate the style from front, profile and back so the finished shape complements the face shape identified at consultation.

  • Updo construction needs a secure base; a ponytail, padding or pin-curl foundation anchors the shape and prevents slippage during an event.

Quick reference

Salon Business, Client Care and Communication

  • Service cost formula: total cost equals product cost plus labour cost plus overhead allocation; price adds the target profit margin to total cost.

  • Retail margin is (retail price minus cost price) divided by retail price, expressed as a percentage; a 50% margin means the price is double the cost.

  • Client retention is tracked by rebooking rate, the proportion of clients who book the next appointment before leaving, a leading indicator of future revenue.

  • Consultation communication: open questions gather the brief, closed questions confirm it, and reflective listening checks the client's meaning before recommending.

  • Complaint handling sequence: listen without interruption, acknowledge the concern, investigate the record card, offer a remedy within policy, and record the outcome.

  • Retail recommendation rule: recommend only products that address a need identified during consultation, and explain how and when to use them.

  • Data protection: retain client records for the period set by local law and insurance, and store chemical and allergy information securely.

  • Capacity planning: appointment length must cover processing plus application and finishing time, otherwise the column overruns and waiting times rise.

Quick reference

Health, Safety and Hygiene in the Salon

  • Hand hygiene is the single most effective control: wash with soap and water or use alcohol gel before and after every client, and after removing gloves.

  • Disinfection hierarchy: clean visible debris first, then apply a hospital-grade disinfectant for the manufacturer's stated contact time; disinfection fails on soiled tools.

  • Porous items such as nail files and single-use razors cannot be reliably disinfected and must be discarded after use or after contact with blood.

  • Blood and body-fluid spill rule: wear gloves, absorb with disposable paper, disinfect the area, bag waste as clinical waste, and record the incident.

  • Electrical safety: portable appliance testing at the interval set by local regulation; never use a tool with a damaged flex or a plug showing scorch marks.

  • Formaldehyde releasers and persulfates in straightening and bleaching products are respiratory sensitisers; use local exhaust ventilation and keep safety data sheets on file.

  • Every chemical in the salon needs a safety data sheet, a labelled decanted container and a documented risk assessment.

  • Slips and trips: sweep clippings after each client, sign wet floors, and route trailing cables away from walkways.