Perming and Chemical Texture Services
What the exam tests
This domain tests the chemistry and technique of perming, including hair structure, reducing and neutralising, test curls, rod selection and aftercare. It expects safe judgement about porosity, elasticity and previous chemical services.
Core rules
- Perming breaks disulfide bonds with a reducing agent, usually a thioglycolate preparation, then re-forms them in the new shape with a neutraliser.
- Assess porosity and elasticity before perming. Highly porous or fragile hair may over-process; do not perm hair that is breaking or has been freshly relaxed without specialist assessment.
- Choose rod size and winding pattern to create the desired curl. Wind with even tension: too loose gives an uneven result, too tight can mark or stress the hair.
- Perform a test curl to check curl formation and processing progress; do not rely on clock time alone.
- Rinse thoroughly before neutralising, apply neutraliser evenly and leave it for the manufacturer's time. Avoid disturbing the curl during neutralising.
- Advise waiting before shampooing, heat styling or further chemical services, and recommend suitable aftercare.
Worked example
A test curl forms a firm S-shape after eight minutes, but the manufacturer's guide suggests up to fifteen. Reasoning: the hair is processing faster than expected, possibly due to porosity. Rinse and neutralise at the test-curl stage rather than waiting for the maximum time, which would risk over-processing and breakage.
Traps that cost marks
- Neutralising incompletely, leaving the curl weak or limp.
- Winding with uneven tension and creating an irregular curl.
- Perming hair that is already breaking or has high porosity without adjustment.
- Shampooing too soon and disturbing the new bonds.