IL Cosmetology flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

Hospital-grade disinfectant

An EPA-registered product labeled with a tuberculocidal claim that kills bacteria, fungi, and viruses on nonporous implements when used for the manufacturer's stated contact time.

Porous implements are single-use

Nail files, buffers, wooden sticks, cotton, and other absorbent items cannot be reliably disinfected, so they must be discarded after one client or given to that client.

Blood exposure procedure

Stop the service, put on gloves, remove visible matter, then disinfect the area with an EPA-registered hospital disinfectant with tuberculocidal activity for the full label contact time.

Illinois cosmetologist training requirement

Illinois requires 1,500 clock hours of approved cosmetology training before a candidate may sit for the licensed cosmetologist examination.

IDFPR

The Illinois Department of Financial and Professional Regulation, the state agency that licenses cosmetologists, estheticians, nail technicians, barbers, and the salons and schools that train them.

Illinois nail technician hours

Illinois requires 350 clock hours of approved training for nail technology licensure, a fraction of the 1,500 hours needed for a cosmetology license.

Anagen phase

The active growth phase of the hair cycle, lasting roughly two to six years; about 90 percent of scalp hair is in this phase at any given time.

Cortex

The middle layer of the hair shaft, making up about 90 percent of its weight; it holds the melanin pigment and the side bonds altered by perming and coloring.

Lunula

The whitish, half-moon area at the base of the nail plate, visible through the transparent nail, that overlies the front portion of the matrix.

Hair pH

Hair and scalp normally fall between pH 4.5 and 5.5; alkaline products swell and open the cuticle, while acidic products contract and close it.

Disulfide bond

The strongest side bond in hair, formed between two sulfur atoms of cysteine; it is broken by reducing agents in perms and relaxers and rebuilt by oxidation.

20-volume developer

A 6 percent hydrogen peroxide solution that lifts hair about two color levels when mixed with permanent tint, and is the most commonly used strength.

Hair porosity

The hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture, rated low, normal, or high; highly porous hair takes color quickly, fades fast, and feels rough.

Scalp massage movements

Effleurage (gliding), petrissage (kneading), tapotement (tapping), friction (circular rubbing), and vibration, each applied during a shampoo or scalp treatment.

45-degree elevation

A cutting position in which hair is held out from the head at 45 degrees, producing a graduated or wedge shape with stacked weight near the perimeter.

Blunt cut

A haircut performed at zero elevation with no tension, cutting straight across the ends of the hair to create a firm, solid perimeter line.

Thermal iron temperature

Fine or damaged hair is pressed at about 250 to 300 F, while coarse resistant hair may need 350 to 400 F; test the iron on tissue paper first.

Monofilament wig cap

A cap in which each hair is hand-tied to a sheer mesh that mimics the scalp, allowing a natural-looking parting and styling at a higher cost.

Test curl

A check made during a permanent wave in which one wrapped curl is processed and unwound to confirm the desired S-shape before all rods are saturated.

Relaxer retouch

Application of chemical relaxer to the new growth only, overlapping previously relaxed hair as little as possible to prevent breakage; done every six to eight weeks.

Neutralization

The oxidation step after relaxing that rebuilds disulfide bonds and lowers pH; a neutralizing shampoo is lathered and left on for at least five minutes.

Law of color

The system in which primary colors red, yellow, and blue mix into secondary colors orange, green, and violet, which then combine into the tertiary colors used in formulating.

Complementary color neutralizers

Colors opposite each other on the color wheel cancel out: blue neutralizes orange, violet neutralizes yellow, and green neutralizes red in hair color formulation.

Strand test

A test on a small section of the client's hair, done before a color service, to predict processing time and the result of the formula on that hair.

Fitzpatrick scale

A six-point classification of how skin responds to ultraviolet light, from type I (always burns, never tans) to type VI (deeply pigmented, rarely burns).

Clay mask

A facial mask made with kaolin or other absorbent clays that draws oil from the skin; best suited to oily and combination skin types.

Nail growth rate

Fingernails grow roughly one-eighth inch, or about 3 millimeters, per month; toenails grow more slowly, and growth increases in warm weather.

Onychomycosis

A fungal infection of the nail plate that makes it thick, discolored, and crumbly; it is a disorder requiring medical referral, not a condition you treat.

Monomer and polymer

The liquid (ethyl methacrylate) and powder (polymethyl methacrylate) that react when mixed to form the acrylic bead used to sculpt artificial nail enhancements.

Keystone pricing

A retail markup equal to doubling the wholesale cost, which yields a 50 percent gross margin; many salons price retail at two to three times cost.

Client consultation

A pre-service conversation and intake form covering hair and health history, prior chemical services, medications, lifestyle, and the client's goal for the visit.

Booth rental

A salon arrangement in which the stylist pays fixed weekly rent for space and supplies while keeping all service and retail income as a self-employed worker.