IL Cosmetology study materials
IL Cosmetology study resources

IL Cosmetology: Hairstyling, Thermal Styling, and Wigs/Extensions

IL Cosmetology · Work through your exam, one topic at a time.

All guide sections

Hairstyling, Thermal Styling, and Wigs/Extensions

Wet styling and thermal tools

Wet styling relies on hydrogen bonds: roller sets (base, stem, curl; larger rollers give volume, smaller give curl), pin curls (flat or barrel, clockwise or counterclockwise), finger waves, and blow-drying with a round brush. Thermal styling changes the hair temporarily through heat.

Know your tools: curling irons (barrel size and temperature matched to texture), flat irons, and pressing combs. Test any hot tool on a tissue or damp paper towel before it touches hair - if the paper scorches, the tool is too hot. Use lower heat on fine, lightened, or damaged hair; higher heat only on coarse, resistant hair. Work on dry hair, keep tools clean, never rest a hot iron on a flammable surface, and unplug when finished.

Wigs and extensions

Human hair wigs can be heat styled and colored; synthetic wigs are heat-sensitive and melt - check the manufacturer's temperature limit before using any thermal tool. Learn cap constructions (capless, monofilament, hand-tied, lace front), wig caps, blocks, and care. Extensions include clip-in, tape-in, fusion/keratin bond, and sew-in or braided methods. Adhesives require a patch test 24-48 hours ahead, and any style installed with excessive tension risks traction alopecia.

Traps

  • Applying a curling iron to a synthetic wig.
  • Pressing comb on damp hair.
  • Skipping the patch test on bonding adhesive.
  • Braiding so tightly that the client reports scalp pain.

Rule of thumb

Test the tool before it touches the head, and test the adhesive before it touches the skin.