Assam ASSEB HSLC Weaving & Textile Design flashcards
Assam ASSEB HSLC Weaving & Textile Design · Build recall with a focused review session.
32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.
- Warp and weft
- Warp yarns run lengthwise parallel to the selvedge and are held under tension; weft yarns are inserted crosswise between them to form the fabric.
- Selvedge
- The self-finished lengthwise edge of a woven fabric, formed where the weft turns back at each side; it prevents fraying and helps in handling and stitching.
- Shed
- The triangular opening formed between raised and lowered warp yarns during weaving. The weft is passed through this opening, then the shed is closed and changed.
- Ends per inch
- The number of warp threads contained in one inch of fabric width. It is set by the reed count and the number of ends drawn through each dent.
- Muga silk
- A golden, naturally lustrous silk produced by Antheraea assamensis, reared mainly in Assam. It is durable and its colour deepens with washing and age.
- Eri silk
- A non-mulberry silk from Samia ricini, spun from cocoons after the moth emerges. It is white, warm, matte and often used for shawls and winter garments.
- Burning test
- An identification test: cotton and linen smell of burnt paper and leave soft ash; wool and silk smell of burnt hair and leave a crushable bead; synthetics melt to a hard bead.
- Tex and denier
- Direct yarn numbering systems. Tex is the weight in grams of 1000 metres of yarn; denier is the weight in grams of 9000 metres. Higher values mean coarser yarn.
- Throw-shuttle loom
- A traditional Assamese loom in which the weaver throws the shuttle by hand through a wide shed. It allows weaving of broad cloth such as mekhela chador.
- Fly-shuttle loom
- A loom where a picking stick and cord drive the shuttle across the warp. It speeds weaving and permits wider fabric than hand throwing, but needs a shuttle guard.
- Loin loom
- A body-tension loom in which warp is tied to a back post and to a belt around the weaver's waist. Tension is controlled by the weaver leaning back.
- Reed
- A comb-like part with fine metal dents set in the sley. It spaces the warp ends, guides the shuttle and beats each pick up to the fell of the cloth.
- Plain weave
- The simplest weave, where each warp end passes alternately over and under each weft pick. It gives maximum interlacing, firmness and a flat, reversible fabric.
- Twill weave
- A weave where each end floats over at least two picks, with the interlacing point shifting one end each pick. This produces characteristic diagonal lines on the fabric.
- Satin weave
- A warp-faced weave with long floats and a regular shift of at least four ends, giving a smooth lustrous face. The long floats make it prone to snagging.
- Float
- A portion of warp or weft yarn that passes over or under two or more yarns without interlacing. Long floats add lustre but reduce abrasion resistance.
- Warping
- The process of arranging the required number of warp ends in correct order, length and tension on a beam or frame before weaving, using section or beam methods.
- Sizing
- Coating warp yarns with starch or other size to increase strength and abrasion resistance and reduce hairiness during weaving. Add-on is measured as a percentage.
- Drafting
- Drawing each warp end through a specific heddle eye in a planned order. The draft determines which ends are raised for each shed and controls the weave.
- Denting
- Passing a group of warp ends between the dents of the reed. Ends per dent multiplied by reed dents per inch gives the ends per inch in the reed.
- Motif
- A single, self-contained design unit such as a flower, comb or bird shape, which is repeated or arranged to build a full fabric pattern.
- Colour value and hue
- Hue is the colour family, such as red or blue; value is its lightness or darkness. Contrast in value is easier to see at a distance than contrast in hue.
- Complementary colours
- Colours lying opposite each other on the colour wheel, such as red and green. Placed together they produce strong contrast and appear more intense.
- Mekhela chador
- The traditional Assamese two-piece drape: the mekhela is a tubular lower garment and the chador is draped above it, often woven in pat or muga silk.
- Gamosa
- A white Assamese cotton cloth with a red border and woven motifs, used as a towel and offered as a mark of respect during ceremonies and festivals.
- Pat silk
- A mulberry silk of Assam, usually white or off-white with a soft lustre, widely used for mekhela chador, riha and ceremonial garments.
- Sualkuchi
- A town in Kamrup district, Assam, known as a major centre of silk and handloom weaving, especially of muga, pat and eri products.
- Weaver's knot
- A small, secure knot used to join a broken warp end to its replacement or to the cloth. It is compact enough to pass through the heddle eye and reed.
- Loom maintenance
- Routine care of a loom: cleaning lint, checking warp tension, smoothing shuttles and reeds, and oiling metal parts lightly to prevent rust and staining.
- Prime cost
- The sum of direct material, direct labour and direct expenses for a product. Factory overhead is added to prime cost to obtain factory or works cost.
- Break-even quantity
- The output at which total revenue equals total cost. It is calculated as fixed cost divided by the difference between selling price and variable cost per unit.
- Selling price formula
- When a profit margin is required on the selling price, divide total cost per unit by one minus the margin as a fraction, not by one plus the margin.