Assam ASSEB HSLC Weaving & Textile Design key terms

The set of lengthwise yarns held under tension on a loom; they form the skeleton of the fabric and are crossed by the weft during weaving.

The crosswise yarn inserted over and under the warp threads to build the fabric; also called filling or pick yarn.

The triangular opening formed between raised and lowered warp threads through which the shuttle passes to lay a weft pick.

A single pass of the weft yarn through the shed, or the single thread so inserted; picks per inch measure weft density.

The firmly woven longitudinal edge of a fabric, formed where the weft turns back, preventing the warp from fraying.

Ends per inch and picks per inch: counts of warp threads and weft threads in one inch of fabric, used to describe cloth density and set.

The spacing or number of warp ends per unit width in a woven cloth, chosen to suit yarn count and weave structure.

A fibre of limited natural length, such as cotton, jute or silk, which must be spun into yarn rather than used as a continuous filament.

A fibre of indefinite continuous length, natural like silk or manufactured like polyester, giving smooth lustrous yarns.

The process of soaking plant stems in water so that micro-organisms loosen the bast fibres from woody tissue, as done for jute and ramie.

A number expressing yarn fineness, either as weight per fixed length (indirect, e.g. cotton count) or length per fixed weight (direct, e.g. tex).

A direct yarn numbering system giving the weight in grams of 1000 metres of yarn; a higher tex means a coarser yarn.

The spiral turns inserted into a yarn during spinning, binding fibres together; direction is S or Z and amount affects strength and handle.

A yarn made by twisting two or more single yarns together, giving greater strength, evenness and special surface effects.

A simple fibre identification method in which a small yarn sample is burnt and the flame, odour and ash are observed to judge fibre type.

The machine or frame that holds warp threads under tension and provides mechanisms for shedding, picking and beating to produce woven cloth.

A handloom in which the weaver propels the shuttle by hand or a pulling cord across the shed; common in Assamese cottage weaving.

A loom mounted over a pit in which the weaver sits with legs below floor level, using body tension and foot treadles to control the shed.

A frame or set of cords with eyes through which warp threads pass, used to raise and lower selected ends and form the shed.

A comb-like device of closely spaced wires that separates warp ends and beats each weft pick firmly against the fell of the cloth.

One gap between the wires of a reed; the number of warp ends drawn through each dent determines warp spacing in the cloth.

A hollow, usually wooden device holding a pirn or bobbin of weft yarn, passed through the shed to insert a pick.

A foot-operated lever on a loom linked to the heddles, pressed to raise or lower warp groups and create the required shed.

The simplest weave in which each warp end passes alternately over and under each weft pick, producing a firm, balanced cloth.

A weave producing diagonal lines on the fabric surface because each pick crosses two or more ends in a regular stepping order.

A weave in which floats of warp or weft pass over several threads before interlacing, giving a smooth lustrous face and dull back.

A portion of warp or weft yarn that passes over two or more threads without interlacing, affecting lustre, smoothness and snag resistance.

The plan showing the order in which warp ends are threaded through the heddle eyes, drawn on squared paper before setting up the loom.

Preparing and arranging the required number of warp threads to the correct length and order before they are wound onto the loom beam.

Coating warp yarns with a starch or adhesive film to increase strength and abrasion resistance so they survive the friction of weaving.

A small tube or spool onto which weft yarn is wound for placing inside the shuttle; also called a quill or cop.

A slender rod on which yarn is wound during spinning or winding; in hand spinning it is rotated to insert twist into the yarn.

Transferring yarn from one package to another, such as hank to bobbin or pirn, while removing faults and building a suitable package.

A single repeated design unit, such as a flower, bird or geometric shape, used alone or combined to build a larger pattern.

The smallest unit of a design that is duplicated across the fabric width and length to create a continuous, regular pattern.

The resistance of a dyed yarn or fabric to fading or bleeding when exposed to washing, rubbing, light or perspiration.

A metallic salt that fixes a dye to fibre by forming a chemical bridge, and which can also shift the resulting shade.

A colouring substance obtained from plant, insect or mineral sources, such as indigo, lac or turmeric, traditionally used in handloom yarns.

A golden-yellow wild silk of Assam produced by Antheraea assamensis, prized for its natural colour, lustre and durability.

A non-violent or peace silk of Assam from Samia ricini, spun from open cocoons into a soft, warm, woolly white yarn.

A white or off-white mulberry-type silk reeled in Assam, valued for its fine, smooth and lustrous filament yarn.

A traditional Assamese white cotton towel with red woven borders and motifs, used in rituals and offered as a mark of respect.

The traditional two-piece Assamese woman's dress of a pleated skirt and a draped upper cloth, often woven with silk and rich motifs.

A strong, coarse bast fibre from Corchorus plants, retted and spun for sacking, rope and increasingly for diversified handloom products.

Calculating the total expense of a handloom product, including yarn, dyes, labour, overheads and wastage, to fix a selling price.

Yarn or material lost through knots, breakages, trimming and rejected pieces; it must be estimated and added into product cost.

The difference between the selling price of a product and its total cost, expressed as an amount or percentage of profit.

Setting the selling price of a handloom item by balancing production cost, market demand, competitor rates and fair weaver wages.

A member-owned organisation of weavers that buys yarn, arranges looms and markets products collectively, sharing profits among members.