Traditional Looms and Weaving Equipment
Traditional Looms and Weaving Equipment
This domain tests the parts of a loom, what each part does, and which loom suits which product and region - an area where practical Assamese weaving knowledge scores marks.
Loom types
- Loin loom (back-strap loom): one end of the warp is tied to a post, the other to the weaver's belt, so tension comes from the body. Used by Mising, Bodo, Karbi, Dimasa, Garo and Naga weavers; narrow widths, continuous warp, a simple heddle rod and sword beater, no rigid frame.
- Throw-shuttle pit loom (bana): the classic Assamese frame loom set into a pit; the shuttle is thrown by hand across the shed. Mainstay of village weaving and of Sualkuchi for mekhela chador.
- Fly-shuttle loom: a picking stick and picker drive the shuttle, so it is faster and can weave wider cloth. Frame looms with dobby or Jacquard heads handle figured work.
Main parts and functions
Warp beam and cloth beam (supply and take-up), heald frames (shedding), reed in the sley (beating and spacing), shuttle or maku (weft insertion), treadles (heald control), lease rods (keeping warp order), temples (holding width).
Worked example
A weaver wants a 45-in-wide mekhela chador in a 6-yard length. Reasoning: a loin loom is limited to roughly 18–24 in in width and to the weaver's reach for warp length, so a pit or frame loom with a 48-in reed is required; a Jacquard is unnecessary because extra weft and 4–8 healds can produce the design.
Marks-losing traps
- Naming the shuttle as the part that beats the weft - the reed does that.
- Confusing the pit loom with the loin loom.
- A dobby controls groups of ends; a Jacquard controls individual ends.