Traditional Textiles of Assam and North-East India
Traditional Textiles of Assam and North-East India
This domain tests named silks, garments, motifs and weaving centres - specific factual recall rather than general theory.
Assam
- Muga: golden, naturally coloured silk from Antheraea assamensis, a non-mulberry silkworm; lustre increases with washing; carries a GI tag and is woven mainly at Sualkuchi, often called the Manchester of Assam.
- Eri: from Samia ricini, a domesticated non-mulberry worm; spun from open cocoons, so the yarn is staple, soft and warm - the 'ahimsa' silk.
- Pat: mulberry silk from Bombyx mori, white and lustrous.
- Garments: mekhela chador (women), riha, cheleng and sador; the gamosa is a ceremonial towel, not a garment, and the phulam gamosa carries floral motifs.
Neighbouring states
- Bodo: dokhona, jwmgra, aronai. Karbi: pekok. Dimasa: rikhaosa, rijamphai. Garo: dakmanda. Mising: ege gasor, gaseng, gero.
- Khasi: jainsem, tapmohkhlieh. Mizo: puanchei, ngotekherh. Meitei (Manipur): phanek, innaphi, phiruk. Tripuri: rignai, rikutu, pachra. Naga groups: warp-striped shawls woven on loin looms.
Worked example
A fabric is warm golden-tan, has a rich natural sheen that improves with every wash, and comes from Sualkuchi. Reasoning: the colour is inherent, not dyed, and the fibre is a non-mulberry silk, so it is muga; a dyed mulberry pat silk would show a flatter, whiter ground.
Marks-losing traps
- Calling eri mulberry silk, or assuming muga is dyed to get its gold colour.
- Describing the gamosa as a garment.
- Mixing up state-wise garment names - learn each name with its state and community.