Karnataka KSEAB II PUC Apparel Made-Ups & Home Furnishing flashcards

32 cards. Read the term and the definition here. The deck at the top of this page is optional.

GSM

Grams per square metre; the metric measure of fabric weight. Higher GSM means heavier, denser fabric, used to select fabric for shirts, denim, towels or upholstery.

Sanforising

A compressive shrinkage finishing process that mechanically compresses cotton fabric to reduce residual shrinkage in the finished garment, usually to below one or two percent.

Mercerisation

Treatment of cotton with caustic soda under tension, giving increased lustre, strength and dye uptake. Without tension the result is poor lustre and higher shrinkage.

Lockstitch 301

A two-thread machine stitch where needle thread interlocks with bobbin thread inside the fabric. It is the standard seam stitch for woven garments and needs balanced tension.

Overlock stitch 504

A multi-thread overedge stitch that trims and neatens the fabric edge while joining it. It stretches with knits and is the common edge finish on sewn garments.

Grain line

A pattern marking arrow that must be placed parallel to the fabric selvedge. Off-grain cutting causes the finished garment to twist and hang unevenly after washing.

Wearing ease

The extra measurement built into a garment beyond body measurements so the wearer can move, breathe and sit comfortably. It differs from design ease, which creates the style.

Dart manipulation

Moving a dart to a new position by pivoting around a fixed point on the pattern, changing where shaping sits without changing the total fit or fabric area.

Fullness ratio

The multiple of track width used to calculate curtain fabric width. A ratio of two to two and a half times gives standard gathered curtains, with more for sheer fabrics.

Martindale rub count

A measure of upholstery abrasion resistance. Domestic upholstery typically needs 20,000 rubs, while contract interiors require 30,000 or more for durability.

Break-even quantity

The number of units that must be sold for total revenue to equal total cost. It is calculated as fixed cost divided by selling price minus variable cost per unit.

Prime cost

The sum of direct material, direct labour and direct expenses in a garment cost sheet, before factory overhead, administration and selling costs are added.

Care symbol washtub

The ISO 3758 laundry symbol showing a tub of water; a number inside gives the maximum wash temperature, a hand means hand wash, and a cross means do not wash.

AQL inspection

Acceptable quality level sampling, where a defined number of garments is inspected against critical, major and minor defect limits to decide whether a lot is accepted.

Tech pack

A specification document containing technical flats, measurements, construction details, fabric and trim specifications and labelling instructions used to develop and produce a garment.

Croquis

A quick fashion figure drawing, usually eight to nine heads tall, used as a base for sketching garments with exaggerated proportions and elongated legs.

Technical flat

A scaled, figure-free drawing of a garment showing seams, darts, topstitching and trims, used in tech packs to communicate construction details to sampling and production.

Complementary colour scheme

A colour scheme using two hues opposite each other on the colour wheel, producing high contrast and strong visual impact in a garment or interior.

Zardosi

A traditional Indian embroidery using metallic zari thread, often combined with beads and sequins, worked on rich fabrics for bridal and formal wear and usually dry cleaned.

Chikankari

A delicate white-on-white hand embroidery from Lucknow using running, shadow and buttonhole stitches on fine cotton or muslin, traditionally used on kurtas and dupattas.

Appliqué

A surface decoration technique in which fabric shapes are cut and stitched onto a base fabric, with edges either turned under or left raw for a decorative frayed effect.

Needle size notation

Machine needles are labelled with metric and imperial sizes, such as 80/12; the number increases with fabric weight, so fine chiffon takes 60/8 and denim 100/16.

Cut-resistant glove

Protective glove worn on the hand guiding fabric through a straight knife in the cutting room, reducing the risk of serious cuts during lay cutting.

Five S housekeeping

A workplace organisation method: sort, set in order, shine, standardise and sustain. In a sewing workshop it prevents trips, lost tools and fabric contamination.

Tex count

A direct yarn numbering system giving the weight in grams of 1,000 metres of yarn. A higher tex number means a coarser yarn, unlike indirect cotton count.

S-twist and Z-twist

The two directions of yarn twist, named for the slant of the letter. Higher twist gives stronger, leaner yarn, while low twist gives softer, bulkier yarn.

Twill weave

A weave with a diagonal line formed by floating yarns across two or more ends. Examples include denim and gabardine; it drapes more than plain weave of equal weight.

Reactive dyes

Dye class that forms a chemical bond with cellulose fibres such as cotton, giving excellent wash fastness. They require salt and alkali and are followed by soaping.

Disperse dyes

Dye class used mainly for polyester and other synthetics, applied at high temperature or by sublimation transfer printing because the fibres are hydrophobic and compact.

Seam efficiency

The ratio of seam strength to fabric strength, expressed as a percentage. It depends on stitch type, thread, stitch density and seam allowance width.

Marker efficiency

The percentage of marker area covered by pattern pieces. Higher efficiency means less fabric waste, lowering the fabric cost per garment in the cost sheet.

Metamerism

A condition where two colour samples appear to match under one light source but differ under another, a common problem when matching trims to garment fabric.