Pattern Making and Garment Construction
Pattern-making logic
Pattern making converts body measurements into a flat template. Methods include drafting from a block, flat-pattern manipulation and draping on a dress form. A block has basic fit and no design ease beyond wearing ease; seam allowances may be added later. Key markings: grainline, centre front/back, notches, darts, fold lines and balance marks.
Rules that carry marks
- Grainline runs parallel to the selvedge; off-grain cutting causes twisting.
- Ease is the difference between body and garment measurement; too little restricts movement.
- Seam allowance is added to net pattern edges; industrial patterns often use 1 cm, hems more.
- Darts shape flat fabric to the body; they should point to the fullest part, not beyond it.
- Grading scales a pattern across sizes; marker planning minimises fabric waste.
Worked example
A skirt has hip 92 cm, design ease 4 cm and four equal panels. Finished hip = 96 cm; one panel = 24 cm. Add 1 cm seam allowance at each side = 26 cm cut width. If cut on fold at centre, only one seam allowance is needed on the open edge. Reasoning: ease is added before dividing; seam allowance is added after the finished panel width is known.
Traps
Do not add seam allowance twice to a block that already includes it. Do not place grainline diagonally for a basic woven skirt. Notches are balance marks, not decoration. Ease is not the same as seam allowance.