Garment Construction, Pattern Making and Clothing Care
What the exam tests
This domain tests the path from body measurement to finished garment: drafting a block, adding allowances and ease, choosing seams and stitches, and advising correct care.
Pattern making
Take body measurements, draft a basic block, then adapt it by flat pattern methods or draping. Key terms: grainline (usually parallel to the warp), selvedge, bias (45° to warp, maximum stretch), nap and shade direction, dart, notch and balance mark. Blocks are made without seam allowance; commercial patterns usually include it, so always check. Ease is the extra measure beyond body size for movement and style; without it a woven garment will not fit.
Construction
Common seams are plain, French (fine fabrics, encloses raw edges), flat fell (jeans, shirt sides) and lapped. Stitch classes include 301 lockstitch, 101 chainstitch and 504 overlock for edge neatening. Needle size, thread tex and stitches per inch must suit the fabric; too fine a needle on denim breaks, too coarse a needle on georgette leaves holes.
Clothing care
Care labels advise washing method, temperature, bleach, drying, ironing and dry cleaning. Match the advice to the fibre: wool needs mild detergent and flat drying; viscose loses strength when wet; polyester is heat-sensitive when ironed; silk needs low heat and no harsh alkali.
Worked example
A cotton fabric shrinks 5% in warp after washing. To deliver a finished length of 100 cm, cut length = 100 ÷ 0.95 = 105.3 cm, so add about 5.3 cm, not 5 cm. For 5% weft shrinkage on a 60 cm width, cut width = 60 ÷ 0.95 = 63.2 cm. Adding a flat 5% underestimates the allowance.
Traps that cost marks
Grainline is not the selvedge. Bias stretches most; cutting on bias changes fit. Forgetting ease makes a pattern unwearable. Do not apply the same care advice to silk and cotton. Always confirm whether seam allowance is included.