Surface Ornamentation and Embellishment Techniques
Surface Ornamentation and Embellishment Techniques tests the techniques added on top of basic stitching and the order in which they are applied.
Techniques
- Appliqué: a shaped fabric piece turned under and held with blanket or slip stitch.
- Cutwork: shapes cut away and the edges buttonholed with bridging bars.
- Shadow work: herringbone worked on the reverse of sheer fabric so a shadow shows on the front.
- Mirror work (abhla bharat): a mirror held by a buttonhole ring and tightened with herringbone.
- Beadwork and sequins: each bead anchored with a half cross or back stitch; a sequin secured with a small bead through its hole.
- Zardosi and couching: metallic thread laid on the surface and held by small stitches.
- Ribbon, smocking, quilting and tassels for texture; lace insertion and patchwork for construction.
Order of work
Embroider flat first, then add mirrors, beads and sequins last so the needle does not catch them; press from the reverse over a towel, never directly on beads.
Worked example
A 4 cm mirror on a cushion front: trace the circle, work a buttonhole ring around it with stitches radiating outward and the ring 2 mm larger than the mirror, place the mirror, then work a second row of herringbone over the edge, pulling each stitch tight so the mirror is held without glue. Glue would stiffen the fabric and stain in washing.
Traps
Beads attached with one long thread (they loosen), sequins sewn flat with no bead (the thread cuts the hole), embellishing a light fabric so heavily that it sags, and mixing five techniques on one small article.