Punjab PSEB Senior Secondary NSQF Apparel Made-Ups and Home Furnishing key terms

The two yarn sets in woven fabric. Warp yarns run lengthwise, parallel to the selvedge, and are stronger and more tightly twisted; weft yarns run crosswise and are inserted over and under the warp during weaving.

The narrow, firmly woven edge running along both lengthwise sides of a woven fabric that prevents the yarns from unravelling. It is usually denser than the body of the cloth and should not be used inside a seam allowance.

The direction of the yarns in a woven fabric. The lengthwise grain follows the warp, the crosswise grain follows the weft, and the bias is any diagonal direction. Garment pieces are cut on the correct grain so they hang and fit properly.

A diagonal direction across a woven fabric, at 45 degrees to the warp and weft. Bias-cut fabric stretches and drapes readily, which is used for soft garments and for bias binding, but it can also distort a garment if cut carelessly.

A strip of fabric cut on the bias and folded so it can enclose a raw edge. Its stretch lets it follow curves such as necklines and armholes without puckering, and it gives a neat, durable finish.

Grams per square metre, a measure of fabric weight and density. It is obtained by cutting and weighing a known area of cloth. GSM guides the choice of fabric for a garment, its needle and thread, and its cost.

The number of warp and weft yarns per inch or per centimetre of woven fabric. A higher count generally means a finer, smoother, denser cloth, which affects strength, handle, breathability and price.

The reduction in fabric dimensions after washing or wetting, caused by relaxation of yarn stresses and by fibre swelling. Fabrics should be pre-shrunk or shrinkage-tested before cutting so finished garments keep their declared size.

A marked arrow on a pattern piece showing the direction in which it must be laid on the fabric, usually parallel to the selvedge. Ignoring it causes twisting, poor drape and garments that do not hang straight.

The process of systematically increasing or decreasing a pattern's measurements to produce a range of sizes from one base size. Grading rules are applied to each point so that proportions and fit stay consistent across the size range.

The sample size from which a pattern is developed and from which all other sizes are graded. Its measurements are confirmed on a fitting model or dress form before the grading increments are applied.

The extra width added outside the stitching line on a pattern, so that the seam can be joined and finished without reducing the garment. It must be added consistently and marked clearly on the pattern.

A small mark cut or drawn on the edge of a pattern and transferred to the fabric to show where two pieces must be matched during sewing. Notches keep seams aligned and prevent pieces from being joined incorrectly.

A trial garment made in cheap, plain fabric from the pattern to check fit, balance, ease and proportion on a person or dress form. Corrections found in the muslin are transferred back to the paper pattern before cutting the final fabric.

The extra room built into a garment beyond body measurements so the wearer can move and breathe. Wearing ease is the minimum needed for comfort; design ease is the additional fullness chosen for the style.

A stitched triangular fold that removes excess fabric so flat cloth can shape itself to the curves of the body, such as at the bust, waist or shoulder blade. Darts are marked and stitched from the wide end to the point.

The line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of fabric, together with its allowance. The choice of seam type and its finishing affects the strength, appearance and comfort of the garment.

Any treatment applied to raw seam edges to stop fraying and give a neat inside appearance, such as overlocking, zigzagging, French seams or binding. The finish chosen depends on fabric type, garment quality and cost.

A row of straight stitching worked just inside the seam line on curved or bias edges, such as necklines, before construction. It prevents the edge from stretching out of shape while the garment is being handled and sewn.

The number of stitches per inch or per centimetre along a seam. Too few stitches give a weak seam; too many weaken the thread and fabric. Correct density is set on the machine and checked on a sample.

A standard grouping of stitch types by the way the thread is interlaced, such as lockstitch, chainstitch or overlock. Knowing the class helps in selecting the right machine and stitch for a given seam or finish.

A long sheet of paper on which all pattern pieces for a range of sizes are arranged as closely as possible before cutting. A well-planned marker reduces fabric waste and directly lowers material cost per garment.

The percentage of a marker's area that is actually covered by pattern pieces. Higher utilisation means less wasted cloth. It is improved by careful marker planning, correct grain alignment and suitable fabric width.

The production section where fabric is spread, marked and cut into garment pieces. Accuracy here determines whether the pieces sew together correctly, so spreading tension, ply count and cutting accuracy are closely controlled.

Distributing work elements among operators on a production line so that each station takes roughly the same time. Good balancing reduces waiting, controls work-in-progress and raises line output without extra machinery.

The operation in a production line that takes the longest time and therefore limits the output of the whole line. Identifying and relieving the bottleneck is the fastest way to increase throughput.

The time taken by one operation or one complete unit of work to be finished. It is used in line balancing and capacity planning to calculate how many pieces a line can produce in a shift.

Acceptable Quality Level: the quality level that is considered satisfactory as a process average in a sampling plan. Under AQL inspection, a stated number of defects is allowed in the sample before a lot is rejected.

A fabric inspection method in which defects are graded 1 to 4 points according to their length and severity over a given length of cloth. The total points decide whether the roll is accepted or rejected.

The planned examination of materials, components or finished garments against specified requirements. It may be done at incoming, in-process or final stages, and its purpose is to detect and separate non-conforming items.

The permitted range of variation from a specified measurement or requirement. A garment measurement, for example, may be allowed a small plus or minus tolerance while still being accepted as within specification.

A document that states exactly what a product must be: measurements, materials, colours, construction, packing and tolerances. It is the reference used by both production and quality control to judge conformity.

In menswear sizing, the difference between the chest and waist measurement of a jacket or suit. A size 40 jacket with a 34 inch waist has a six inch drop, which helps in selecting the correct trouser size.

Textile products made for use inside the home, such as curtains, bed linen, cushions, table linen and upholstery. They are usually cut and sewn to standard or made-to-measure sizes and demand strong, washable fabrics.

A textile article that has been cut and sewn into a finished product rather than sold as fabric, for example towels, bags, bed sheets or aprons. Made-ups add value through labour and finishing rather than through the cloth itself.

The ratio of curtain fabric width to the width of the window it covers. A fullness of two to two-and-a-half times the window width gives soft, regular pleats; less fullness gives a flatter, more economical look.

Extra length or width added to a made-up article, such as a bed sheet or curtain, to compensate for the fabric shrinking after washing. It is based on the tested shrinkage percentage of that fabric.

A statement that builds up the total cost of a product from its elements: direct material, direct labour, direct expenses and overheads. It is the basis for setting price, quoting to buyers and controlling cost.

Free On Board price: the price of goods delivered on board the ship at the named port of export. It includes the cost of the goods and inland transport and export clearance, but not international freight or insurance.

The increase in worth of a product created by processing, design, finishing, branding or packaging beyond the raw material. Higher value addition allows a maker to earn more from the same quantity of fabric.

The sales volume at which total revenue equals total cost, so there is neither profit nor loss. Knowing it tells an entrepreneur the minimum output needed to survive and how price changes affect risk.

The money needed for day-to-day running of a business, such as buying fabric, paying wages and meeting bills before customers pay. Shortage of working capital is a common reason small garment units fail.

Equipment worn to protect the worker from workplace hazards, such as needle guards, finger guards, aprons, masks and ear protection. It is the last line of defence after hazards have been reduced by other means.

Fitting physical barriers or devices around moving parts of machinery, such as the needle and pulley areas of a sewing machine, to prevent fingers or clothing from being caught and injured.

Designing workstations, tools and tasks to fit the human body, for example correct table and chair height and good lighting. Good ergonomics reduces fatigue and strain injuries among sewing operators.

A document supplied with a chemical that lists its hazards, safe handling, first aid and storage requirements. Workers must consult it before using dyes, solvents, sprays or other chemicals in the unit.

Listening with full attention and then confirming understanding by summarising or asking questions. In a production unit it prevents costly mistakes when instructions about style, size or quality are given.

Information given back about the result of work or behaviour, used to maintain or improve performance. Constructive feedback on quality or speed helps a trainee correct errors early.

The specialised words used in a trade, such as seam, dart, overlock or AQL. Knowing them lets a worker read specification sheets and communicate accurately with supervisors, buyers and colleagues.

A short written summary of a person's education, skills and experience, prepared for job applications. For this trade it should highlight machine skills, stitching speed, quality awareness and any relevant training certificates.