Pattern Making and Grading
What this domain tests
Pattern making converts body measurements into a two-dimensional template that becomes a three-dimensional garment. The exam tests measurement taking, ease, block construction, pattern symbols, seam allowances, and how a base size is graded into a size range.
Core rules and concepts
- Measurements: take bust/chest, waist, hip, shoulder, armhole, sleeve length and inseam over light clothing, with the tape snug but not tight.
- Ease: wearing ease allows movement and breathing; design ease creates the silhouette. A close-fitting bodice may need 4–6 cm bust ease, while a relaxed shirt needs much more.
- Methods: drafting from measurements, flat-pattern manipulation from a block, and draping on a dress form. A basic block has no seam allowance; production patterns add it.
- Pattern symbols: grainline arrow parallel to the warp/selvedge; notches for matching; drill holes for dart points or pockets; fold lines; balance marks.
- Seam allowances: commonly 1 cm (5/8 inch) on seams and 2.5–4 cm on hems; the allowance is added outside the stitching line.
- Darts: transfer fullness to shape the body; true the dart legs so they are equal length.
- Grading: increase or decrease a block by regular increments between sizes, for example about 4 cm at the bust, 2–3 cm at the waist and 3–4 cm at the hip per size. Grade points, not the whole pattern by a single amount.
Worked example
A size M bodice block has a 96 cm bust and 4 cm wearing ease. The pattern bust is therefore 96 + 4 = 100 cm. On a half-block, the bust line is 100 ÷ 2 = 50 cm. If grading to size L with a 4 cm bust increment, the full pattern increases by 4 cm and the half-block by 2 cm at the bust line; the neck and shoulder grade by smaller amounts.
Traps that cost marks
- Forgetting ease, so the toile cannot be worn.
- Adding seam allowance twice to a block that already includes it.
- Drawing the grainline across the pattern instead of parallel to the selvedge.
- Grading every point by the same amount, which distorts armholes and necklines.