Makeup Application and Cosmetology
Domain 8 - Makeup Application and Cosmetology
The exam tests colour theory, face-shape correction, foundation matching and hygiene - the reasoning behind a look, not a memorised routine.
Preparation and matching
Cleanse, tone and moisturise; use primer for longevity. Match foundation along the jawline in natural light, not on the hand, and identify undertone: warm (golden, yellow), cool (pink, blue) or neutral. Test two or three shades and blend.
Correcting with colour
Opposite colours neutralise: green cancels redness (spots, broken capillaries), peach or orange cancels blue-purple under-eye circles on medium and deep skin, yellow cancels purple, lavender cancels sallow yellow tones. Apply corrector thinly, then concealer, then set only where needed.
Face shapes and light
Contour (darker) recedes, highlight (lighter) brings forward. Round faces are slimmed at the temples and jaw; oblong faces are shortened at the forehead and chin. For eyes: hooded lids need a matte transition shade above the crease; close-set eyes get lighter inner corners and outer emphasis; protruding lids suit matte, deep tones.
Hygiene
Sanitise brushes and sponges, wash them weekly, scrape cream products onto a palette instead of double-dipping, use disposable mascara wands, sharpen pencils, and discard expired mascara. Ask about latex, nickel, fragrance and adhesive allergies before lash work.
Worked example
A fair, cool-toned client has redness on the cheeks and blue-tinged dark circles. Reasoning: a green corrector over the redness and a peach corrector under the eyes neutralise first; a pink-based (cool) foundation matches the neck; powder only on the T-zone so the dry cheeks stay luminous.
Traps
- Testing foundation on the wrist or hand.
- Using a warm foundation on cool skin, leaving an orange tide mark.
- Sharing cream blush or lip products straight from the pan.
- Promising that makeup will “treat” acne.