UPMSP Intermediate Sewing key terms

The narrow strip of fabric between the cut edge of a piece and the stitching line. It gives room for the seam to be sewn, pressed open and finished without the garment pulling apart.

The marked line on a pattern piece or fabric where the needle actually passes. It sits inside the cutting line by the width of the seam allowance, usually 1.5 cm for garments.

A long arrow printed on a pattern piece showing how it must be placed on the fabric, normally parallel to the selvedge. Cutting off grain makes garments twist and hang badly after washing.

The firmly woven, non-fraying edge running along both sides of a length of fabric, produced by the loom. It marks the straight grain and is usually too stiff to use inside a garment.

The direction at 45 degrees to the straight grain, where the fabric stretches most. Bias-cut pieces drape softly, and bias strips are used to bind curved edges such as necklines and armholes.

The exact 45-degree diagonal between warp and weft threads. Cutting at this angle gives maximum stretch and is the standard direction for bias binding and bias-cut panels.

A small cut or V-shaped mark made on the seam allowance, or a mark printed on a pattern, used to match pieces correctly during sewing. Notches also allow curves to spread flat when turned.

A short cut made into the seam allowance, stopping just short of the stitching line, so an inward curve such as a neckline lies flat after turning. Cutting too far opens the seam.

A row of straight stitching worked just inside the seam line on a curved or bias edge, such as a neckline, before construction. It stops the edge from stretching out of shape during handling.

Stitching the seam allowance to the facing close to the seam, on the inside of a garment. It keeps the facing rolled to the back so it does not show on the outside of the neckline.

A shaped piece of fabric sewn to the inside of a garment edge, such as a neckline, armhole or front opening, to finish and strengthen it. It is usually cut from the same pattern shape.

A stiffening fabric attached to the wrong side of garment pieces, for example collars, cuffs and waistbands, to give body and prevent stretching. It may be sew-in or fusible, applied with heat.

Interfacing coated with a heat-activated adhesive on one side. It is bonded to the fabric with an iron and damp cloth, and needs correct temperature and pressure or it bubbles and peels.

A record of a person's key measurements, such as bust, waist, hip, shoulder width and length, taken with a tape measure. These figures are the base for choosing a pattern size and adjusting it.

The extra room built into a garment beyond the body measurements, allowing movement and comfort. Wearing ease is always present; design ease is added for a loose or gathered style.

The process of increasing or decreasing a pattern systematically to produce a range of sizes. Graders move each point by fixed increments so that the shape and fit stay consistent between sizes.

A trial garment made in cheap fabric, such as calico, from the pattern before cutting the final material. It is fitted on the wearer and any changes are transferred back to the pattern.

A change made to a pattern or finished garment to improve fit, such as shortening a hem, taking in a side seam or moving a dart. Alterations are done before final stitching where possible.

A wedge of fabric stitched and pressed to shape a flat piece around a curve of the body, commonly at the bust, waist or shoulder. It removes excess fabric and creates three-dimensional form.

The finished lower edge of a garment, made by turning the raw edge under and stitching it. Hems may be machine stitched, hand slip-stitched, blind-stitched or rolled, depending on the fabric.

Any treatment of raw seam edges that prevents fraying and gives a neat inside, such as overcasting, zigzag, French seam, flat fell or binding. The choice depends on fabric type and garment quality.

A strong seam enclosing all raw edges inside a double row of stitching, made by sewing the wrong sides together first, trimming, then stitching right sides together. It suits fine, sheer fabrics.

A stitch formed by an overlock or serger machine that wraps thread around the fabric edge while trimming it. It sews and finishes a seam in one step and stretches with knit fabrics.

The distance the fabric advances between successive needle penetrations, set on the machine, typically 2 to 3 mm for normal seams. Longer stitches are used for basting and gathering.

The balance of pull between the upper thread and the bobbin thread. Correct tension locks stitches in the middle of the fabric; too tight or too loose causes loops, puckering or broken thread.

The small spool that holds the lower thread inside the sewing machine and supplies it to form the underside of each stitch. It must be wound evenly and inserted the correct way round.

Routine care of a sewing machine, including cleaning lint from the bobbin case and feed dogs, oiling moving parts as instructed, and replacing blunt needles. It prevents skipped stitches and costly breakdowns.

A number showing the thickness of a sewing machine needle, often given in both metric and imperial, such as 80/12. Fine needles suit light fabrics; heavy denim needs a larger, stronger needle.

Temporary long stitches, sewn by hand or machine, that hold fabric layers together before final stitching. Basting is removed after the permanent seam is sewn and checked.

Drawing up fabric along two rows of long machine stitches to create soft folds, used at waists, cuffs and frills. The gathers are then distributed evenly and joined to a flat piece.

Lifting and lowering a hot iron onto fabric to set stitches and shape seams, distinct from sliding it along. Correct pressing during construction makes the difference between home-made and professional finish.

The heat setting chosen on an iron to suit a fibre, from cool for synthetics to hot with steam for cotton and linen. Wrong settings scorch or melt fabric, and test pieces should be pressed first.

A label attached inside a garment giving washing, bleaching, drying, ironing and dry-cleaning instructions for its fibre and finish. Following it protects the garment and keeps it looking new.

Treating marks on fabric with the correct method for the stain and fibre, such as cold water for blood, solvent for grease or an absorbent for ink. Hot water can set protein stains permanently.

How heavy or thick a fabric is, usually expressed in grams per square metre. It guides the choice of needle, thread, stitch and garment style, from sheer voile to heavy canvas.

The distance from selvedge to selvedge, commonly 90 cm, 115 cm or 150 cm. It determines how much fabric is needed and how pattern pieces can be laid out economically.

The way fabric hangs and folds under its own weight. Soft, fluid fabrics drape closely to the body, while crisp or stiff fabrics hold shape, so drape affects pattern and style choice.

The contraction of fabric, usually after washing, caused by relaxation of fibres and weave tension. Cotton and viscose shrink noticeably, so fabric should be pre-washed before cutting.