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Question 1Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
Which part of a lockstitch sewing machine moves the fabric forward by one stitch length after each stitch is formed?
- The bobbin case
- The feed dog Correct answer.
- The thread take-up lever
- The presser foot
Explanation
The feed dog is the toothed part under the needle plate that rises through its slots and advances the fabric a set distance per stitch. The presser foot only holds the fabric down against it, and the stitch length dial changes how far the feed dog travels.
Question 2Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate must mark a buttonhole position, transfer a pattern line and hold two fabric layers temporarily before stitching. Which tool is best suited for all three temporary tasks?
- Tailor's chalk
- Tracing wheel and carbon paper
- Fabric marker pen
- Hand sewing needle and basting thread Correct answer.
Explanation
Basting with a hand needle and thread is a temporary joining method that also marks a line and holds layers, and it is removed after permanent stitching. Chalk and markers transfer marks but cannot hold layers together, and a tracing wheel marks only.
Question 3Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
Which needle system is normally specified for a domestic lockstitch machine that uses flat-shank household needles?
- DPx5
- 130/705 H Correct answer.
- 16x257
- DBx1
Explanation
The 130/705 H designation is the household flat-shank needle system used in domestic lockstitch machines, with H indicating a flat shank. The other codes are industrial systems with round shanks or different lengths.
Question 4Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate is choosing a needle for medium-weight cotton shirting. Which combination is most appropriate?
- Size 70/10 needle with heavy topstitching thread
- Size 60/8 needle with 120s fine thread
- Size 110/18 needle with 30s heavy thread
- Size 80/12 needle with 50s all-purpose thread Correct answer.
Explanation
Medium-weight cotton shirting is normally sewn with an 80/12 needle and a 50s general-purpose thread so the needle creates a hole large enough for the thread without damaging the weave. Needles and threads that are too fine or too heavy for the fabric cause puckering, skipped stitches or seam damage.
Question 5Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
On a lockstitch machine, what is the primary function of the bobbin tension spring?
- It controls the speed of the feed dog
- It pulls the needle thread back up after loop formation
- It locks the bobbin winder during stitching
- It regulates the resistance applied to the lower thread as it leaves the bobbin case Correct answer.
Explanation
The small spring on the bobbin case presses against the case wall and applies resistance to the lower thread, which balances the upper tension to set a correct interlocking stitch. Upper tension is adjusted on the tension discs, and feed and winding are separate mechanisms.
Question 6Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate's stitches show loops of needle thread on the underside of the fabric. Which adjustment is the correct first response?
- Reduce the stitch length
- Check threading of the upper path and increase upper tension if threading is correct Correct answer.
- Loosen the upper tension slightly
- Increase the bobbin tension sharply
Explanation
Loops of needle thread underneath usually mean the upper thread is not being pulled up properly, most often because the machine is threaded incorrectly or the upper tension is too loose. Re-threading the upper path is checked first, then the upper tension is tightened to bring the knot to the middle of the fabric.
Question 7Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
Which machine is designed specifically to trim the seam allowance and overcast the raw edge in one operation on a garment side seam?
- Blind hem machine
- Lockstitch machine with a zigzag foot
- Overlock machine Correct answer.
- Coverstitch machine
Explanation
The overlock machine carries knives that trim the seam allowance and needles and loopers that overcast the edge in the same pass, producing a secure finished seam. Coverstitch, blind hem and lockstitch machines do not trim and overcast simultaneously.
Question 8Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate needs to press a curved princess seam on a bodice without flattening the bust curve. Which pressing tool is most suitable?
- Flat ironing board
- Sleeve board
- Point presser
- Tailor's ham Correct answer.
Explanation
The tailor's ham is a firmly stuffed curved cushion that supports shaped areas such as bust curves and darts while they are pressed, so the three-dimensional form is preserved. Flat surfaces and narrow boards are used for straight seams and tubes.
Question 9Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
Which marking tool leaves a temporary line that can be brushed away and is suitable for dark, firmly woven fabric?
- Tailor's chalk Correct answer.
- Air-soluble marker
- Water-erasable pen
- Tracing carbon
Explanation
Tailor's chalk is a dry marking medium that sits on the surface and brushes off, and it shows clearly on dark, firmly woven fabric. Water-erasable and air-soluble markers are liquid and may leave residue or disappear before use, and carbon can stain.
Question 10Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate is cutting a slippery polyester lining with a rotary cutter. Which setup gives the most accurate, stable cut?
- Cut on a wooden table with the fabric held by hand
- Cut on a self-healing mat with the fabric held by a rotary ruler Correct answer.
- Cut with dressmaker's shears while lifting the fabric
- Cut with pinking shears on a cutting board
Explanation
A rotary cutter is used with a self-healing mat and a weighted or hand-held rotary ruler, which keeps slippery fabric flat and gives a straight, accurate line. Cutting on hard surfaces blunts the blade, and lifting the fabric distorts the grain.
Question 11Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
What is the primary purpose of a seam ripper in the sewing toolkit?
- To trim seam allowances after overlocking
- To mark dart points on the fabric
- To open buttonholes after stitching
- To remove stitches by cutting the thread without damaging the fabric Correct answer.
Explanation
A seam ripper has a small sharp blade and a protective ball point that is slipped under a stitch to cut it, allowing unwanted stitching to be unpicked with minimal risk to the fabric. It is not a marking, trimming or buttonhole tool.
Question 12Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate is sewing a knit jersey on a lockstitch machine and the seam cracks when stretched. Which change is most likely to solve the problem?
- Increase the stitch length and use a straight stitch
- Switch to a heavier polyester thread and a longer stitch
- Use a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch and a ballpoint needle Correct answer.
- Reduce the needle size to 60/8 and tighten the tension
Explanation
Knitted fabric needs a stitch that can stretch with it, so a narrow zigzag or built-in stretch stitch combined with a ballpoint needle that pushes between the loops prevents cracked seams. Straight stitching with a sharp needle limits stretch and cuts yarns.
Question 13Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
Which part of the sewing machine should be adjusted to change the length of the stitch?
- The bobbin winder
- The presser foot pressure screw
- The tension dial
- The stitch length regulator Correct answer.
Explanation
The stitch length regulator changes how far the feed dog moves per stitch, which sets the stitch length. The tension dial, presser foot pressure and bobbin winder control different functions entirely.
Question 14Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate must sew a seam on a heavy denim jeans leg. Which combination of needle and machine setting is most appropriate?
- Size 100/16 or 110/18 needle, heavy thread, longer stitch Correct answer.
- Size 60/8 needle, fine thread, long stitch
- Size 70/10 needle, fine thread, short stitch
- Size 90/14 needle, all-purpose thread, medium stitch
Explanation
Heavy denim needs a strong needle of about 100/16 to 110/18 and a heavier thread so the stitch does not break under strain, and a slightly longer stitch reduces needle flex. Fine needles bend or break and fine thread snaps in heavy fabric.
Question 15Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
Which maintenance action best prevents lint from building up in the bobbin area and causing skipped stitches?
- Leaving the presser foot down when the machine is stored
- Loosening the upper tension between projects
- Oiling the needle plate weekly
- Brushing out lint from the bobbin case and feed dog after each sewing session Correct answer.
Explanation
Lint and fibre dust collect in the bobbin case and around the feed dog, where they can block thread movement and cause skipped stitches, so they should be brushed out regularly. Oiling the needle plate, altering tension and leaving the foot down do not address lint.
Question 16Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate is using a French curve while drafting a pattern. What is its main purpose?
- To check that the fabric grain is straight
- To draw smooth curved lines such as armholes and necklines Correct answer.
- To add seam allowances evenly along a straight edge
- To measure the inside leg length
Explanation
A French curve is a drafting template with varied curves that helps draw smooth, accurate armholes, necklines and other shaped lines. Straight rulers, tape measures and grain lines serve different drafting tasks.
Question 17Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate sews a seam and finds that the fabric puckers along the stitch line even though the tension looks balanced. Which cause is most likely?
- The bobbin is wound too loosely
- The needle is too large for the fabric and thread
- The presser foot pressure is too high or the fabric is being stretched while sewing Correct answer.
- The stitch is too long for the fabric weight
Explanation
Puckering with balanced tension usually comes from the fabric being stretched as it passes under a foot with excessive pressure, or from the operator pulling it. Reducing foot pressure and letting the feed dog move the fabric removes the stretch.
Question 18Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
Which tool is used to measure and mark a consistent hem allowance of 3 cm along a curved skirt hem?
- French curve
- Seam gauge Correct answer.
- Tracing wheel
- Pinking shears
Explanation
A seam gauge is a small metal ruler with a sliding marker that holds a set distance, making it easy to mark a consistent hem width around a curve. A French curve drafts shapes, pinking shears finish edges and a tracing wheel transfers marks.
Question 19Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
In an overlock machine, what is the function of the upper and lower loopers?
- They carry the needle threads that penetrate the fabric
- They trim the seam allowance before stitching
- They carry the loop threads that wrap the fabric edge and interlock with the needle threads Correct answer.
- They pull the finished seam away from the machine
Explanation
On an overlock machine the loopers carry the threads that form loops around the fabric edge and interlock with the needle threads to create the overcast stitch. The knives trim the allowance, and the feed dog moves the fabric.
Question 20Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate's machine needle keeps breaking during a straight seam. Which cause should be checked first?
- The bobbin is nearly empty
- The thread is the wrong colour
- The needle is bent, blunt or set with its flat side the wrong way Correct answer.
- The stitch length is set too short
Explanation
Needle breakage is most often caused by a bent or blunt needle, a needle inserted with the flat side facing the wrong way, or a needle too fine for the fabric. Checking that the needle is straight, sharp and correctly seated is the first step before adjusting anything else.
Question 21Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
Which type of shears is designed with a bent handle so the lower blade rests on the cutting table while the fabric stays flat?
- Embroidery scissors
- Dressmaker's shears Correct answer.
- Pinking shears
- Thread snips
Explanation
Dressmaker's shears have a bent handle that lets the lower blade slide along the table so the fabric remains flat while cutting pattern pieces. Pinking shears cut zigzags, and small scissors and snips are for trimming threads.
Question 22Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate sews a seam and the lower thread shows on the top surface. Which adjustment is the most appropriate first step?
- Tighten the bobbin tension sharply
- Tighten the upper tension
- Replace the needle with a larger size
- Loosen the upper tension Correct answer.
Explanation
When the bobbin thread is pulled to the top, the upper tension is too tight and is pulling the lower thread up through the fabric. Loosening the upper tension brings the interlocking point back to the middle of the seam.
Question 23Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
Which safety practice is most important when changing the needle on a sewing machine?
- Switch off the machine and unplug it before loosening the needle clamp Correct answer.
- Hold the needle with the fingers while tightening the clamp screw
- Leave the machine running at low speed to check alignment
- Keep the presser foot raised and the thread tension tight
Explanation
The machine must be switched off and unplugged before the needle clamp is loosened, so an accidental press of the foot control cannot drive the needle into the hand. Holding the needle with bare fingers and testing while running are both unsafe.
Question 24Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
A candidate is setting up a coverstitch machine to hem a stretch knit T-shirt. Which statement best describes what the machine produces?
- A straight lockstitch hem with a folded edge only
- A single row of chainstitch with a trimmed edge
- Two or three parallel rows of topstitching on the face with a looper-formed stitch on the back that stretches Correct answer.
- A zigzag overcast edge with no topstitching
Explanation
A coverstitch machine uses two or three needles with a looper to form parallel rows of stitching on the face and a covering stitch on the back that stretches, which makes it suitable for knit hems. It does not trim edges and does not form a lockstitch.
Question 25Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A tailor needs a fabric for a summer kurta that drapes softly and takes dye brightly. Which fibre property best explains why cotton suits this use?
- High elasticity and shape recovery
- High thermal insulation
- Natural flame resistance
- Good moisture absorbency and dye affinity Correct answer.
Explanation
Cotton cellulose absorbs moisture readily, which keeps the wearer comfortable in heat, and its fibre structure accepts dyes strongly so colours appear bright. These two properties together make it a standard choice for light summer garments.
Question 26Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
Before laying out a pattern on woven fabric, which step ensures the grain line marked on the pattern matches the fabric?
- Placing the pattern at 45 degrees to the selvedge
- Folding the fabric diagonally before pinning
- Aligning the pattern grain line parallel to the selvedge Correct answer.
- Matching the pattern grain line to the crosswise weft
Explanation
The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvedge, so matching the pattern's grain-line arrow to the selvedge keeps the garment hanging correctly. Placing pieces off grain causes twisting and poor drape after washing.
Question 27Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
Which fabric is produced by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles on a loom?
- Non-woven fabric
- Woven fabric Correct answer.
- Knitted fabric
- Felted fabric
Explanation
Woven fabric is made by interlacing lengthwise warp yarns with crosswise weft yarns at right angles. This interlacing structure is the defining feature of weaving and distinguishes it from knitting and bonding methods.
Question 28Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A student must pre-shrink a length of cotton before cutting a shirt. Which method is appropriate?
- Washing or soaking the fabric in warm water and drying it flat Correct answer.
- Stretching the fabric firmly on the bias
- Brushing the surface with a stiff brush
- Pressing the dry fabric with a hot iron only
Explanation
Cotton shrinks when first wetted, so washing or soaking and then drying before cutting removes most of the shrinkage. This prevents the finished shirt from becoming too small after its first home wash.
Question 29Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
Which term describes the finished, self-finished edge running along both sides of a woven fabric piece?
- Selvedge Correct answer.
- Bias
- Weft
- Nap
Explanation
The selvedge is the tightly woven edge that prevents the fabric from fraying and marks the lengthwise direction. Pattern layout normally keeps pieces inside the selvedge and grain lines parallel to it.
Question 30Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A customer wants a winter coat with good warmth and natural water repellency. Which fibre is the most suitable choice?
- Cotton
- Wool Correct answer.
- Linen
- Viscose
Explanation
Wool fibres are crimped and trap air, giving high insulation, and their scaly surface helps shed light rain. It is therefore the classic fibre for warm outerwear.
Question 31Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
Which of these is a natural cellulosic fibre?
- Nylon
- Wool
- Silk
- Linen Correct answer.
Explanation
Linen is obtained from the flax plant and consists mainly of cellulose, like cotton. Silk and wool are protein fibres and nylon is a synthetic polyamide.
Question 32Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A pattern piece must be cut on the true bias. At what angle to the selvedge is the fabric cut?
- 45 degrees Correct answer.
- 180 degrees
- 0 degrees
- 90 degrees
Explanation
True bias is the diagonal direction at exactly 45 degrees to the lengthwise grain and selvedge. Bias-cut strips stretch and drape well, which is why they are used for bindings and cowl necklines.
Question 33Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
When laying out a napped fabric such as corduroy for a garment, what must the cutter ensure?
- Pattern pieces alternate direction to save fabric
- Pattern pieces ignore the nap for economy
- All pattern pieces face the same direction along the nap Correct answer.
- Pattern pieces are placed on the bias
Explanation
Napped fabrics show different shades depending on the direction of the pile, so all pieces must be cut with the nap running the same way. Otherwise panels of the finished garment will appear to be different colours.
Question 34Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A plaid fabric must be matched across the front opening of a shirt. What is the most reliable preparation step before cutting?
- Place all pieces on the crosswise grain
- Steam the fabric until the plaid distorts
- Cut each piece separately without reference marks
- Thread-trace or mark the dominant plaid line and align pattern notches to it Correct answer.
Explanation
Plaids are matched by identifying a dominant line and marking it so that corresponding points on adjoining pattern pieces meet at the seam. Thread tracing or notch marks carry that reference from layout to sewing.
Question 35Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
Which test is used to identify a fibre by observing its smell and ash after burning a small sample?
- Burn test Correct answer.
- Drape test
- Abrasion test
- Colour-fastness test
Explanation
The burn test examines flame behaviour, odour and residue: protein fibres smell of burnt hair and leave crushable ash, while cellulosics smell of burning paper. It is a quick identification method used in the workroom.
Question 36Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A candidate is preparing a slippery polyester satin for cutting. Which practice keeps the layers from shifting?
- Pin through the centre of each pattern piece
- Stretch the fabric taut while cutting
- Cut with the fabric hanging over the table edge
- Pin within the seam allowance and weight the pattern pieces down Correct answer.
Explanation
Slippery fabrics shift easily, so pinning inside the seam allowance and weighting the pattern keeps layers aligned without leaving pin marks in the garment. Cutting on a flat supported surface further prevents distortion.
Question 37Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
Why is mercerised cotton preferred over untreated cotton for many garments?
- It is naturally flame retardant
- It becomes elastic and stretchable
- It has greater lustre and improved strength and dye uptake Correct answer.
- It is completely shrink-proof for life
Explanation
Mercerisation treats cotton under tension with caustic soda, which smooths the fibre, increasing lustre, tensile strength and dye absorption. It does not make cotton shrink-proof, elastic or flame retardant.
Question 38Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A wool suiting must be prepared so that it does not shrink during the first dry clean. Which preparation is most appropriate?
- Cut it immediately without any relaxation
- Steam and press the fabric with a damp cloth before cutting Correct answer.
- Wash it in hot water and tumble dry
- Soak it in cold water overnight
Explanation
Wool relaxes and can shrink when exposed to heat and moisture, so steaming and pressing with a damp cloth before cutting allows the fabric to settle. This reduces later distortion of the finished garment.
Question 39Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
Which fabric structure gives the greatest stretch in all directions and is often used for swimwear?
- Weft-knitted fabric with elastane Correct answer.
- Non-woven interfacing
- Twill-woven wool
- Plain-weave cotton
Explanation
Weft knitting produces interlocking loops that stretch, and adding elastane increases recovery, giving the four-way stretch needed for swimwear. Woven and bonded structures lack this extensibility.
Question 40Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A candidate notices that a fabric has a slightly different shade when viewed from opposite directions. Which property explains this?
- The fabric has been mercerised
- The fabric is a plain weave
- The fabric has a nap or pile with directional light reflection Correct answer.
- The fabric is cut on the bias
Explanation
Pile fabrics reflect light differently depending on the direction of the fibres, producing a shade difference when viewed from opposite ends. This is why nap layout rules require all pieces to face one way.
Question 41Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
Which preparation step removes sizing and factory finishes from new fabric before it is sewn into a garment?
- Pinking the edges
- Washing the fabric before cutting Correct answer.
- Pressing with a hot iron
- Marking with tailor's chalk
Explanation
New fabric often carries sizing and finishing chemicals that can affect drape, absorbency and shrinkage, so washing before cutting removes them. This also pre-shrinks the cloth.
Question 42Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A client requests a garment for a hot, humid climate that stays cool and dries quickly. Which fibre blend best meets this need?
- Cotton blended with polyester in a lightweight weave Correct answer.
- Wool blended with acrylic in a heavy twill
- Nylon in a closely woven taffeta
- Viscose in a heavy velvet
Explanation
A lightweight cotton-polyester blend combines cotton's absorbency and breathability with polyester's quick drying and strength. Heavy wool, nylon and velvet all trap heat and dry slowly.
Question 43Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A candidate is cutting a fine silk chiffon and finds that pins leave holes and the edges fray badly. Which approach is best?
- Use fine silk pins inside the seam allowance and cut with sharp shears on a tissue layer Correct answer.
- Use large quilting pins through the centre of each piece
- Stretch the chiffon firmly before cutting
- Cut with pinking shears only, without pins
Explanation
Fine silk pins reduce hole damage and placing them inside the seam allowance hides any marks, while a tissue layer stabilises the slippery cloth during cutting. Sharp shears avoid snagging the delicate yarns.
Question 44Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A manufacturer claims a fabric has been sanforised. What does this treatment achieve?
- It increases the fabric's elasticity
- It adds a permanent flame-retardant coating
- It makes the fabric waterproof
- It mechanically compresses the fabric to reduce residual shrinkage Correct answer.
Explanation
Sanforising passes damp cotton fabric between a heated roller and a rubber blanket, mechanically compressing it so that residual shrinkage falls to a low level. It does not add flame resistance, waterproofing or stretch.
Question 45Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A garment must be cut from a striped fabric so that the stripes match at the centre-back seam and the side seams. What is the most reliable preparation?
- Mark the stripe repeat on the pattern and add matching allowances at each seam Correct answer.
- Place the pattern on the bias
- Cut each piece from a separate length of fabric
- Ignore the stripes at the side seams
Explanation
Matching stripes requires the seam positions and the stripe repeat to be marked on the pattern so that the stripes meet precisely when sewn. Extra allowance at the seams lets the cutter adjust the match without losing size.
Question 46Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A candidate must choose a lining for a lightweight wool jacket. Which lining property matters most for wear and comfort?
- High absorbency to soak up perspiration
- Smooth low-friction surface with adequate breathability Correct answer.
- Heavy weight for added warmth
- Stiff hand to hold the jacket shape
Explanation
A lining should slide easily over the garment and the body, so a smooth low-friction surface with some breathability is preferred. Too heavy, too absorbent or too stiff a lining would add bulk and discomfort.
Question 47Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A fabric sample shrinks 4 percent after washing and the finished garment needs a 60 cm body length. What cutting length should the cutter allow before washing?
- About 57.6 cm
- About 62.5 cm Correct answer.
- About 64 cm
- About 60 cm
Explanation
A 4 percent shrinkage means the cut length must exceed the finished length by 4 percent of that length, so 60 cm times 1.04 gives about 62.5 cm. Allowing this extra length ensures the garment reaches the intended measurement after washing.
Question 48Fabric Knowledge, Selection and Preparation
A candidate is selecting fabric for a tailored jacket that must hold a crisp shape. Which fabric property is most important?
- Firm hand and good shape retention with a stable weave Correct answer.
- High stretch and soft drape
- Light weight and sheer transparency
- High absorbency and quick drying
Explanation
A tailored jacket needs fabric that holds its shape, so a firm hand, stable weave and good shape retention are essential. Stretch, absorbency and sheerness work against the structured silhouette required.
Question 49Body Measurement and Pattern Making
In body measurement for garment construction, which measurement is taken around the fullest part of the bust with the tape held level and parallel to the floor?
- Shoulder width
- Bust circumference Correct answer.
- Neck circumference
- Waist circumference
Explanation
Bust circumference is recorded around the fullest part of the bust, keeping the tape horizontal and snug but not tight. This measurement controls the front bodice width and the dart intake in a fitted pattern.
Question 50Body Measurement and Pattern Making
A tailor records the waist measurement at the natural waistline. Where is that landmark located on the body?
- At the hip bone level
- At the navel line
- At the narrowest point of the torso Correct answer.
- At the base of the ribs
Explanation
The natural waistline is the narrowest indentation of the torso, usually found by bending sideways and noting the crease. Patterns use this line to place the waist seam and calculate dart placement.