Sewing Tools, Equipment and Machine Fundamentals
This domain tests the kit a tailor actually uses and the lockstitch machine that does most of the work. Expect tool-identification items from a stated function, part-labelling on a machine diagram, and fault-finding from a described stitch sample.
Measuring and marking
- Tape measure 150 cm (60 inch), held flat, never twisted.
- Seam gauge for repeated 6 mm and 1.5 cm turnings; hem gauge for deep hems.
- L-square for right angles, French curve for armhole and neck curves, hip curve for side seams.
- Tailor's chalk, tracing wheel with dressmaker's carbon, tailor's tacks to carry marks to both layers.
Cutting and hand tools
- Dressmaking shears 20–25 cm (8–10 inch) with a bent handle so the fabric stays flat on the table.
- Pinking shears for a zigzag edge on fabrics that fray little; thread snips; seam ripper; awl; bodkin.
- Machine needles: 60/8 for voile and chiffon, 80/12 for poplin and shirting, 90/14 for denim, 100/16 for canvas. A blunt needle gives skipped stitches and pulls the fabric.
Machine fundamentals
- Thread path: spool pin → thread guide → tension discs → take-up lever → needle clamp → needle eye.
- Stitch length 2.5–3 mm on medium cloth, 1.5 mm on fine fabric, 3.5–4 mm for basting.
- A higher number on the upper-tension dial means more tension.
Worked example
A sample shows loops under the fabric with slight puckering. Reasoning: loops on the underside mean the upper thread is too loose. Raise the dial one number and re-test on a scrap; if loops persist, re-thread with the presser foot up and clean lint from the bobbin case.
Traps
- Threading with the presser foot down, so the thread never seats between the discs.
- Using fabric shears on paper.
- Confusing the seam ripper with the awl, or pinking shears with dressmaking shears.